1HZ 80 series turbo questions.

[colinwhirlpool]

Hey,

I have some bits to put together:

- 1HZ 80 Series cruiser with pump rebuilt, new injectors and valve clearances just done.
- Garrett 2860RS turbo brand new.
- DTS (I think) T3 pattern manifold half.

So, I need to find either a T25 - T3 adaptor and use the DTS manifold OR get one of matt mcinnes's adaptors to go from std manifold to T28.

My preference is to go for the matt mcinnes adaptor. Is there any reason not to do this? Then does anyone want the DTS T3 manifold?

For the boost, is the std actuator set too high for the 1HZ?

For the exhaust, is there a 5 bolt dump pipe to std exhaust available OR do I just fir the turbo up and tow it to eh exhaust shop for them to fabricate a new 3" system?

Cheers,

Colin,

[ledgend80]

i think your actuator will be 6psi. and i have fitted one of matts adaptors and they are spot on

[crunk81us]

my actuator is about 12psi, I have got an 8psi one to install. Go the Matt Mcguinnes adaptor, I have one as well.. Awesome bit of gear! Hardest thing about it was finding hex head bolts the right size and length, and that wasn't real hard Also as a thought it may be an idea to do your manifold gasket while you're in there, I got my turbo on and running for bout 10 mins before i blew the gasket.. insert day of labour at an exhaust shop pulling broken studs :( running good now! have 8 psi from about 1800rpm and 12psi from 2200 all the way to redline with the 2860rs

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 0#p1955710" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

link to my install.. with pics.

[crunk81us]

also with the 2860 i had no issues clearing the block with the actuator. It fits with about 1/2 inch to spare

[ledgend80]

also with the 2860 i had no issues clearing the block with the actuator. It fits with about 1/2 inch to spare

is that with a 1hz or ihdt exhaust manifold

[crunk81us]

also with the 2860 i had no issues clearing the block with the actuator. It fits with about 1/2 inch to spare

is that with a 1hz or ihdt exhaust manifold

standard 1hz with matts adaptor.

[crunk81us]

For the exhaust, is there a 5 bolt dump pipe to std exhaust available OR do I just fir the turbo up and tow it to eh exhaust shop for them to fabricate a new 3" system?

I got the 5 bolt flange off ebay (get a mild steel one it's easier to weld and not prone to cracking) and had the exhaust shop do the rest. 3 inch mandrel with the longest straight thru muffler that fits.. sounds amazing! quiet yet rumbles, and the cool turbo whistle over the top.. mmmmm yummy!

[colinwhirlpool]

What should I expect to pay for an exhaust job as you have described?

For the exhaust, is there a 5 bolt dump pipe to std exhaust available OR do I just fir the turbo up and tow it to eh exhaust shop for them to fabricate a new 3" system?

I got the 5 bolt flange off ebay (get a mild steel one it's easier to weld and not prone to cracking) and had the exhaust shop do the rest. 3 inch mandrel with the longest straight thru muffler that fits.. sounds amazing! quiet yet rumbles, and the cool turbo whistle over the top.. mmmmm yummy!

[ledgend80]

if they are making the dump pipe as well about $1000

[Z()LTAN]

i made my own 5 bolt dump pipe wasnt too hard.

[colinwhirlpool]

Nice work.

How did you form the pipe to fit the flange so well? Anvil & hammer? Heat?

Have you still got a flex joint?

Colin,



[quote="Z()LTAN"]i made my own 5 bolt dump pipe wasnt too hard.

[Z()LTAN]

The inside of the 5 bolt flange is almost exactly 3" so i just crushed the end down with a rubber mallet till it would force into the flange along the longest part. Tac the 2 edges that fit perfect then using a piece of 1" round solid bar and some other smaller bars i layed it in there and hammered it out tacing as you go. Took just over 30 mins.

I ran about 1m of ss flex along the chassis so i could bend it around the crossmember and tranny with ease. I made some saddles to then hold it in position.

[80's_delirious]

haha, looks like your zorst is hanging of the brake line in that pic

I did similar to make my own dump pipe, but I welded the flange directly onto the first bend after I had cut it to the angle I wanted.

[colinwhirlpool]

Anyone tried these?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-LANDCRUIS ... 27b666cf97" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[crunk81us]

Anyone tried these?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-LANDCRUIS ... 27b666cf97" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I haven't seen/used one.. but it looks ok. would be a cheap upgrade for someone handy with tools/welder, drops back to 2.5 inch. cut that off and put a 3" flex pipe t0 the dump? bloody cheap!

[colinwhirlpool]

ARGH!

The plan was to use std 1hz manifold, matt's adaptor, fabricate dump pipe and 3" exhaust form local shop. Sounds simple.

I started pulling the exhaust and heat shields off yesterday. I founds the std manifold has a crack in it. Bugger.

So, I either need to use the 1HZ-T3 Denco (that I have nearly just sold) and a T3-T25 adaptor or source another std manifold.

Hopefully, there will be a few floating around doing nothing in peoples sheds. Can anyone help?

Regards,

Colin,

[80's_delirious]

it shouldnt be hard to locate a std 1hz manifold from a wrecker for not much $$

[colinwhirlpool]

For the turbo cooling, I guess, everyone picks up water from the heater circuit. I can see direction of flow in heater control valve. Looks easy enough to 'T' into these lines.

My question is does this affect the heater? Is the path of least resistance through the turbo OR the heater circuit?





I'm still on the hunt for a standard exhaust manifold.

[colinwhirlpool]

Time for an update.

I found a std manifold at the local wrecker - $150. So put it on, drilled and tapped the hole for the pyro.



Then fitted the adaptor plate from Matt Mcinnes.



The adaptor plate was a great fit and worked perfectly. 100% great value for money.

The only thing required was to get Metric fine cap screws (I think they were M12) and all was good.

Next was the oil return. Sump off and weld in a plate with threaded mounting holes. Then bolt on another plate with BSP threaded fittings. This was a bit tricky (What I am saying is that I blew holes in it) due to the very thin and double skin construction of the Toyota sump.



Bolt on Garrett GT2860RS turbo.



'T' into heater lines for turbo cooling. I struggled to get the exact fittings I wanted here. Ideally, I was after unequal 'T's (3/4", 1/2", 3/4"). Ended up having to make up by using screw together barbs and T's.



Next fabbed up a 3" dump pipe. Was pretty easy but did take a few hours.


I ended up not using this dump pipe except for the drive to the exhaust shop so if anyone wants it, make me a fair offer and it's yours.

Time for some gauge work. This was a pain. I got Auto-meter gauges and a eBay generic pillar pod. I could not find and ready made 80 series pillar pods. It took a few hours with a file & heat gun to get it to fit.

Came up ok. Still needs paint. Not sure I'll bother though.



For the intercooler, I went the water to air option. Good for space, performance and cost.

Bought from here: http://www.frozenboost.com these guys were great to deal with, good prices, good delivery speed.



To make the intercooler fit the 1HZ manifold, I paid for some fabrication work since aluminium welding is outside of my range of skills.




Added an eBay knock off boost controller


Looks like this now



Now, the important stuff.....does it go good. SHIT YES

I have it running about 15psi boost, about 1/3 to 1/2 turn increase in fuel screw, and only just getting to 1000°F (530°C) (pre turbo) if I keep it pinned for ages on a big hill.

It makes about 5psi boost from 1000rpm, 10psi from about 2000rpm and 15 psi from 2400rpm. Over 3600rpm the boost drops off a bit. Not sure if this is due to a shortage in fuel or the limit for this size turbo.

The dropoff in boost is not an issue at the 2600rpm as the power is also dropping - better off changing gears.

[Z()LTAN]

Awesome work mate looks great! The dropping off of boost is normal. As your torque (engine load) drops off in higher revs so too will your load govenor in the inj pump. Less fuel is less boost.

Very clean install mate well done.

[matt.mcinnes]

Here is a pic of the other side of the 1HZ-T25 Flange 3D CAD and CNC so it flows well in the transition.