3L 2.8 diesel - injector pump replacement: HOW TO?

[islandvitara]

Hi all, im purchasing a hilux that needs the injector pump to be replaced as the one now is leaking fuel. Ive searched google and on here for a how to replace it but found no topics to suit???

Can someone please post how to do it an how big of a job it is? Im just a regular amature mechanicaly minded lad so im sure i can replace this with a little direction so can someone please post a basic 'how to' on replacing the injector pump for a 2.8l diesel hilux..??


Cheers, Shae

[Sam.BMX]

i had the same problem

you have to remove all the intake up to the manifold, radiator, timing case, fan and the harmonic balancer, you'll need a puller for this.

we also replaced to water pump and timing belt while it was all apart.

It took me and my old man one saturday arvo to remove all of the bits.
We took it to the diesel place and it took them about 3-4 days to fix my pump they said they did all the seals and some mechanical bits. cost nearly $1000.

when putting it back together, remember to hand crank the engine 4 times to ensure that the timing marks line up and you'll be sweet.

Hope this helps, Sam

[islandvitara]

thanks so much Sam.BMX appreciate your helpd cheers!!!

ive found a 2nd hand injector pump - i just need to get the hilux goin for rego thats all. was it a big job for you or was it pretty straight forward and taking note of bolts and how its assembled?? im sure i can replace this myself..

did you need to have the hilux up on a hoist or is it able to be done on the ground ect? im hoping i can just work on it on the ground where it is...

thanks heaps for the help mate, i appreciate cheers

[904Runa]

You would do this job on the ground, having it on a hoist would not help you much at all.

You really should get a workshop manual so you know what you are in for. It is a normal timing belt job with the pump removal as the extra step.

Steps you might have trouble on are getting the crankshaft pulley bolt undone, getting the harmonic balancer off, getting the injector pump pulley nut undone (probably best to do this with the timing belt still on) and getting the pump pulley off. Make sure you have the engine timed to Top Dead Centre before belt and pump removal.

Taking the intake manifold off will give you access to the pump mounting bolts and all the extra room to get the new pump set up right.

Also the timing of the pump is set by the position it sits on its mounting in relation to the engine. So you will need to make sure you get that right too, along with general engine timing as Sam.BMX said.

You should also consider doing all the stuff you would for a normal timing belt job, such as new water pump, belt and idler pulley bearings and new front crank and cam oil seals.

If you haven't done a belt before, it would take you the best part of a day so adding the pump in could be a couple of days.

This will give you some idea http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/fuelpump.htm

[Sam.BMX]

No problems mate!
and yes i had a workshop manual with me when i did mine.

I will tell you now, the hardest thing is getting the bolt undone between the pump and the block, i could barely get my hand down there, and we had to spanner it off the whole way. Its a serious PITA, we had to use and ring/open ender and flip it and go from ring to OE to get the offsets right so the spanner would go on and AND undo the the nut.

All the best, Sam

[Rilux]

Hi mate,

Where is the pump actually leaking from? I had a problem with my pump a few months ago, there is a blanking plate on the side of the pump that sits up against the block. There is a little o-ring that sits inside it, mine was buggered. I had to pull the pump out to replace the o-ring tho.

[chocko]

As the other guys have posted the difficult bits can be getting the front pulley/harmonic balance and the fuel pump pulley off. Do yourself a favour and pull the radiator out so you have more room and buy a cheap puller from the nearest auto shop.
The bolt between the pump and block is best got by using a 3/8" drive socket and long extension so you can come at it from the back of the pump. POP then.

One thing the others have missed - the new pump should be timed to the engine properly, just like you would a distributor on a petrol engine - but to do this you need a "special" dial indicator that goes in through a plug in the rear of the pump. Doubt very much if a fuel pump shop would lend you one. If you put the pump back on without timing it will probably run but maybe not too well.

[Sam.BMX]

Thats interesting chocko.
When i received my pump back it was reset back to TDC, so all we had to do was bolt it on, then the pulley.

Also, did you remove your injector lines when you removed your pump?
If I remember correctly, we couldnt get a socket between the pump and block and im fairly sure this was because of the lines.

Sam

[chocko]

To completely remove the pump you have no choice but to undo the fuel pipes. It is just as easy to remove them all together.

There are marks on the crank, cam and injector pump pulleys that must line up with marks on the backing plate for the front cover when you put the timing belt back on. You will need to turn the engine over at least twice and check they line up again to make sure you have this right.

This gets the cam timed to the crank and the fuel pump close, but for the final adjustment to ensure that it is correctly advanced you need the special tool.

As I said earlier, if this is not spot on the engine will still probably start but most likely will run poorly. Just like a petrol engine with the ignition timing too far out - either over advanced or retarded.

If all you want is to get the thing to run and get it over the pits you may be ok, but what then?

[islandvitara]

Hi mate,

Where is the pump actually leaking from? I had a problem with my pump a few months ago, there is a blanking plate on the side of the pump that sits up against the block. There is a little o-ring that sits inside it, mine was buggered. I had to pull the pump out to replace the o-ring tho.

hard to tell, but from what i could see it was leaking from the bottom on the engine block side which im assuming is that blanket plate - cos i went and bought a 2nd hand injector pump and had a look over it the bloke i bought it off said that the pump could be leaking from that same plate and may only need an o-ring as yours did but i bought the injector pump just incase...

[islandvitara]

To completely remove the pump you have no choice but to undo the fuel pipes. It is just as easy to remove them all together.

There are marks on the crank, cam and injector pump pulleys that must line up with marks on the backing plate for the front cover when you put the timing belt back on. You will need to turn the engine over at least twice and check they line up again to make sure you have this right.

This gets the cam timed to the crank and the fuel pump close, but for the final adjustment to ensure that it is correctly advanced you need the special tool.

As I said earlier, if this is not spot on the engine will still probably start but most likely will run poorly. Just like a petrol engine with the ignition timing too far out - either over advanced or retarded.

If all you want is to get the thing to run and get it over the pits you may be ok, but what then?

thanks for the post fullas i appreciate all your input!! cheers, so this special dial tool - whats the actual name of it, cos i might just go buy one??? or am i better off sendin it into a shop to be timed correctly? i suppose id rather do it myself though because then i'd learn how to do it ad know how to do....

on the other hand - if its just this o-ring thats stuffed behind the blanket plate if i just replace that assuming it fixes the leak - if i was to fit the pump back on again would it still need to be dialed in for timing?

or is it once you pull the pump off you must dial it in again..??


once again thank you all for your input i really appreciate it cheers!!

[302 cruiser]

the dial tool is to time the pump to the engine you dont realy need it there should be a mark on the rear of the timing cover
where the pump bolts up and one on the pump if you line them up you should be close enough

[chocko]

the dial tool is to time the pump to the engine you dont realy need it

Hmmmm, will have to think about that one.....wonder what Mr Toyota would say?

Yeah you can get away with all sorts of short cuts. If you mark the front cover and the pump flange (if they aren't already) before you take a pump off and DON'T change anything else - don't overhaul your pump or fit a different pump - then the timing will be good enough to get it to run. Said that already.

BUT, if you have to overhaul your pump or fit a different one, then the marks aren't worth jack. You really need to time it properly. Could mean the difference between your engine being more of a slug than it already is or, if you have turbocharged it like my sons, it could mean the difference between high EGT's and not.

Your choice in the end. The dial indicator is a Toyota SST so costs a bomb especially for a job that you will probably only do once. The PIA involved in getting hold of one or having to pay someone to come and time the pump for you will probably help make your decision. I am fortunate that I can get hold of one whenever I like.

[302 cruiser]

the mark is on there from the factory. who cares what mr toyota says if it gets the job done if you realy are that concerned about it put the pump on using the mark then take it somewhere to get someone to check it be cheaper than paying someone to come do it an your place


I can get one when ever i want to but that dosent help him