Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Gearbox oil

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

Post Reply
Posts: 365
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 1:38 pm
Location: Brisbane, Nthsider

Gearbox oil

Post by redrocket »

hey guys i am changing my gearbox oil tommorow in a bid to perhaps quieten it down a bit as lately it seems to have gotten noticeably louder. Ummm what grade/brand/qauntity shoud i be getting?

mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

OK I rarely talk about oils/additives as they can be a minefield and everyone has had different experiences.
These are mine:-
Bought Paj with 100K's on the clock, gearbox very notchy and 4x4 system had the dreaded (super select) flashing light syndrome.
Changed all oils (except engine) very soon after to Castrol and there was no improvement (it was obvious they hadn't been done in a long time).
Barry recommended Bimrose oil (Lim Slip 90) with Slick 50 additive.
http://www.bimlube.com.au/bl/brief_spec ... 090%20GL5+
We use this stuff at work and buy it in bulk as well as the Slick 50 so I did the gearbox, t/case and diffs. Within a week the gearbox notchiness had gone and after a few months the super select system was A-1. I have used this stuff ever since and am wrapped with it. It also freed up the lsd enormously before I got the locker. It costs around $7.00/ltr compared to around $3.50/ltr for mainstream oils.
I wreckon I'd have one of the smoothest shifting Paj boxes around and the super select lights virtually never flash (I've driven a few), 4x4 engagement/disengagement in all modes is first time every time.
With the motor I also had the tappet noise especially on cold start, dissappearing once she warmed up. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and dosed it with Slick 50 and after a few oil changes the noise virtually dissappeared. When it starts to come back (about every 10,000k's) I chuck in a bottle of Nulon Engine Treatment and this shuts them up.
It's done 155K's and hardly uses any oil or blows any smoke.
When I drop the oils there is no crud on the drain plugs (this took about 4 oil changes to achieve this).
Barry also uses Bitron diesel additives and de-carbonisers in his 2.8 turbo diesel Lux and it has to be one of the smoothest/quietest diesel Lux's I have ever seen (done about 280,000K's).
This is what I have done and it certainly has worked for my truck.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Cant argue with your experince Frank, because I wasnt there to witness it.


BUT... your active trac is controlled by vacume, and that servo on the diff. It really should have anything to do with the gear oil. I would say that your just got better from more use.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Yeah Dougie I had it jump out of low range initially and when in 4x4 (centre diff unlocked) it was actually in 4x4 (centre diff locked). There was definitely a mechanical issue in the t/case.
But I agree these cases need constant use for them to work well.
Posts: 346
Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 6:08 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by Julian_4x4 »

how often you should change your g/box oil diffs, whats a t/case
Posts: 15549
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:23 am
Location: Your Mummas House!

Post by bj on roids »

Julian_4x4 wrote:how often you should change your g/box oil diffs, whats a t/case


julian, in a toyota, you probly changed yours when you welded the diff,. after river crossings, or whenever you are wroking on it, mine all got done, 5 or 6 times last year!

but i have mates that try to go for 10 years without changing the oils, as long as you dont drive in mud/water too much you dont need to do it very often

t-case, is a thing that bolts to your gearbox (thier is two sticks on the floor of your rig, the big one where you change when you are driving is your gearbox) the little gearstick, in your case a LN46 hilux (the pic in your avatar) the transfer case shift lever will be directly to the rear of your gearshifter, the short stick! the short stick on your rig goes straight into the top of your transfer case, it is a top shifted, 4 speed design! very strong, and allows the power and torqie to be transfered from your gearbox to either the front or rear wheels, or both together, to get your "4WD"

Julian if you have any more questions please start a thread in general 4x4tech, and let the mitsu guys have thier thread back ;)

thanks mitsu guys (and sorry about that)
bj!
hands and mums dont count!!!
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

C'mon BJ no choir boy stuff..................................I do like abuse once in a while :lol:
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest