SOA My 75

[Plageman]

Ok so I have finally decided that I will SOA my cruiser.
I have as much info as I can get and have come up with following lists
If any body can think of something I'm missing please let me know,

Odviously this list is not going to be 100% detailed, it's just a simple over view,

PARTS
- 4 spring perches
- 2 pair ubolt flip kit
- double steer arm
- tailshaft spacer
- extended brake lines
- extended handbrakd line
- 4 x shock mounts
- shocks

Tools
- angle grinder
- welder mig
- angle finder
- spanners /sockets other
- hoist , tractor, 2x jacks, 4 x jack stands
- air grinder

Process
- remove diff
- start with front, cut spring perches and ubolt hooks
- tack weld new perches and modified ubolt hooks in correct alignment
- remove steer arms/rods
- add extended brake lines
- duffs take weight of car (springs on perches)
- loosely do up ubolts check alignment
- cut and turn axle, rotate pinions toward transfer case
- if alignment is correct with perches, weld them
- tighten up u bolts with diff under springs
- install double steer arm
- install tailshaft spacer

Move to rear

Rear seems pretty straight foward
With cutting and adding/ welding new perches
All extended lines

Shock mounts welded front and rear

Obviously there is more detail in certain things and care to be taken.

Is there any thing major I am forgetting, front shackle reversal may be done obviously befor cut & turn but wasn't sure if it's needed also a traction will also either be made or brought, and a couple other cautions to minimize axle wrap.

This may be completely wrong please give input!!!

Thanx
Mat

[91Mav]

G'day Mat,

Looks like you've got all the parts and tools sorted. I used a double steer arm on my first SOA but you can buy high steer arms from the states for $200 delivered at the moment. Apart from being stronger, these will also lift your tie rod. If you're using a right hand side steering arm flipped on top of you left hand steering arm for you double steer arm, you'll need longer knuckle studs.

As far as the process goes, don't weld the spring perches to the diff housing until the weight of the car is resting on it. You set your pinion angle once the the diff is supporting the car. Once the pinion angle is right, weld the perches and tighten up the U bolts. You have to figure out if you'll do a shackle reversal before you set the pinion angle. If you decide to go that way, add to you parts 2x spring hangers and 2x shackle mounts. You'll also want a longer slip joint on the prop shaft as the diff will move back and up.

Don't angle the pinion towards the transfer case unless you have a double carden joint on the transfer case side of the prop shaft. The uni's need to be on the same angle otherwise they vibrate like crazy. Eg. if the prop shaft was to sit at 30 degrees, point the pinion up 15 degrees past pointing at the transfer so that it matches the the other uni at 15 degrees. It's a little hard to explain this without a photo or pic. Some people don't like this as the pinion gear won't be lubricated as well and they say to point the pinion parallel to the transfer output. Depends on your wheelbase and lift. Up to you.

Once the diff's in the correct location, cut and rotate the knuckles to return caster to standard.

Once both diffs are sorted, then you can add the brake lines and steering links/arms. Get a wheel alignment to be safe.

Good luck with it mate. It's not that bad once you get stuck in and it'll all make sense pretty quickly.

[Plageman]

Thanks man that hel[ed heaps,

4 things:

1. where do i buy the high steer from in states?, what do i use for steering rod then what else do i need if i go high steer option?

2. Do i need to do a shackle reversal?

3. is a traction bar needed?

4. im confused on what you said here

(Don't angle the pinion towards the transfer case unless you have a double carden joint on the transfer case side of the prop shaft. The uni's need to be on the same angle otherwise they vibrate like crazy. Eg. if the prop shaft was to sit at 30 degrees, point the pinion up 15 degrees past pointing at the transfer so that it matches the the other uni at 15 degrees. It's a little hard to explain this without a photo or pic. Some people don't like this as the pinion gear won't be lubricated as well and they say to point the pinion parallel to the transfer output. Depends on your wheelbase and lift. Up to you.

Once the diff's in the correct location, cut and rotate the knuckles to return caster to standard.)

SORRY NOT THE SMARTEST MECHANIC

Thanks again dude

[Frankenyota]

Have a read of this.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... ndex2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Matt

[Plageman]

Cheers mate,

That helped heaps, still wondering on the other 3 things ha

Cheers
Mat

[Plageman]

I cant find HIGH STEER arms anywear for 200 bucks from the states please give me the website you saw that on.

Cheers ]

[Plageman]

Actually just found some high steer arms not sure if they are shit can anyone have a look let me know what they think?

Ebay link

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Steer-C ... 4cf743297a

[91Mav]

Hi mate,

1. Try lowrangeoffroad.com. The hilux steer arms fit cruiser knuckles and sell for $130 US. You'll need the ones for a steering box on the right. You can run the standard drag link and tie rod til you bend em.

2. You don't need a shackle reversal. It's supposed 2 make the front flex over obstacles easier as the diff swings in a rearward arc - thus making it a bit smoother.

3. You'll probably need a ladder bar in the rear, especially if you remove a couple of leaves. See how much the springs wrap and decide if you need one or not.

4. That link that was posted should help you understand. There's a diagram on the left about 7 pics down showing 3 tailshaft/uni setups. The one in the middle is what i was trying 2 describe.

[Plageman]

Sweet man sounds good ill check out that site, I dont need a new steering box though do I ??

[91Mav]

No. Because the yanks drivers seat's on the left side, their steering box is on the left side so the drag link attaches to the steering arm on the right. We're the right way around over here. You'll see the option for the hi steer arms to suit us when you have a look at the site.

[Plageman]

Mate that site is f*****g awesome its got heaps at better prices shipping cant be that much can it im going to email them and give a list to see what its worth shipped here.

thanx again

[old lux]

Locktup4x4 in Perth sell them 550 if I remember. Use your original tie rod. Modify your dragling or buy an adjustable 1

[Plageman]

Thanks mate,

Hey how much do you think my tail shaft will need to be spaced once the SOA is done??

Also there is no point getting shoocks now huh cos i dont know what " size to buy them yeah ?? untill i see my flex

[91Mav]

It would be wise to wait til it's done before you get shocks. If you're not planning on removing leafs from the packs, you could just add 5" to the extended length of the shock + the height increase of your shock hoops if you're gonna run them. You'll have to space your bump stops down too to stop the shocks bottoming out but just do this with some RHS.

As for the tail shafts, unbolt the shafts at the diff end and move them down by about 5" and see how much they extend at the slip joint. I think the 25mm spacers will be more than enough. Don't get tempted to get longer if you don't need it as it will put stain on your transfer case and pinion gear if the slip joint fully compresses during up travel. I broke a pinion gear once by having too long a tail shaft. A drive shaft company may be able to lengthen your current shafts for roughly the same price as a spacer so give them a call too.

I checked delivery of the hi steer arms from lowrange. It's $105 US to Aus.

[Plageman]

Sweet man yeah I emailed lowrange I am set on getting the high steer but wanted to get some other stuff from them as well, but he emailed back saying that as long as the standard hilux stuff would do the job. The following are links to the other products to get will they work??

Spring perches. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... -kit.htmll


U bolt flip kit. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... p-kit.html

Brake lines extended http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... lines.html

If they all fit it would save me a bit

[91Mav]

The spring perches will work.

If the leafs from your 75 are the same width as a lux, the u bolt flip kit will work.

The brake lines are DOT approved so they'll be legal. The site says their lines are 26" so measure your standard ones and if they're 20" +/- 1", they'll fit.

If it's all good, they should all fit in the 12"x12"x6" box and only cost $100 Au for delivery.

[Plageman]

Yeah cool, im checkin up on those measurements of U bolts now,

Im still not completely sure on one thing.

The CUT AND TURN, i know where to approx cut, know that i need to turn the knuckle but turn it how far and what should point where. i have a UNI joint on my drive shaft..

i know im supposed to cut here



This one has a good pic of where its been cut


but what are pinions and what angles are taken stilll confused

ill add a couple more photos and number em maybe someone can explain using them

3


4

[Z()LTAN]

Have a look through my build thread in the early days, it goes through all of this.

Everything you need to know about a SOA on a 75 is in there

[Plageman]

Haha don't worry mate I've been analyzing your thread closely just still trying to make it all clear I'm worried of stuffing up something!

[Plageman]

Well Just ordered some of my SOA conversion stuff to get me started every thing to get the leafs on the diffs, the tailshaft spacing and shocks i will deal with last.

Got extended lines, High steer, perches and an angle finder from the states so much cheaper.

Next thing is to get the front diff out and get brackets cut off as well as perches.

Stay tuned!!

[Plageman]

Well the conversion got kicked off today, removed the front diff, found a good leak on the passanger side housing on the diff have to wait and see what seals are busted may as well re build the hole thing while its out, got two of 4 perches off as well.

Ready to be Modified.....





And Shes OUT.....





Heres the busted side shes leaking pretty good....



My mate helping me out cutting some perches....... seeing that i have a broken right wrist lol thanx m8




Any way thats it ran out of time today, more to be done tomorro, remember im new to this so any hints,tips or if im doing something wrong yell at me haha im only human.

Cheers

[91Mav]

Good on you for getting stuck in mate. The leak will most probably be the inner axle seals. A swivel hub rebuild should be on the cards while it's in pieces.

[Plageman]

Did a little more today not to much though, i have a quick question.

I removed my leaf packs from front, their is 8 leafs in there, how many should i remove before they go back in over the diff??

Here is the pack (pretty heavey duty), i was going to remove 3 leafs all together the 2nd from the bottom, the 4th from the bottom and the 6th from the bottom, is this advised or remove different ones




Any help would be good

Cheers

[91Mav]

I would probably look at only removing the 2nd and 6th from the bottom first up and see how it rides and flexes. U can always go from there but I reckon it'd give u a good starting point.

[Plageman]

Yeah true can always remove more later, i was just reading through ZOLTANS thread and i noticed he did a second cut and turn why did he turn too much the first time???

QUOTE

Well i pulled the car in today, stripped the front housing, ground and cut the knuckles ready for another 'cut and turn'. I went for 4.5deg this time as my last C&T came out as 8deg for some reason...#-o and u know what?

NO MORE DEATH WOBBLES!!

Ive pulled it back down again to brace the knuckles

Pix lata

[Plageman]

Alright another bit of an update well really just a few questions??

First off i am having a major issue removing the steering arm it just doesnt want to come off ive tried everything, heating it, bashing it and swearing at it but not budging what can i bloody do????



Also with my drive shaft i have removed it, i know it will need to be spaced or lenghthend, my question is will a Hilux 87' model shaft fit here is a pic of it next to mine. Mine is the shorter one below.




And a few more pics from whats been happenin. (im waiting on parts so not much happening really.)



.






More updates once parts arrive

cheers

[sprungupcruiser]

Alright another bit of an update well really just a few questions??

First off i am having a major issue removing the steering arm it just doesnt want to come off ive tried everything, heating it, bashing it and swearing at it but not budging what can i bloody do????



Also with my drive shaft i have removed it, i know it will need to be spaced or lenghthend, my question is will a Hilux 87' model shaft fit here is a pic of it next to mine. Mine is the shorter one below.

With the tie rod end I have always found it easier to pull off with the swivle hub still attached to the housing and the housing still on the car. Just get a good pry bar and put plenty of pressure on it then give it some nice big hits until it pops out, its easier with a mate if its really stuck. I'm pretty sure the hilux shaft will have different bolt pattern on the flange and will probably also need a double cardan joint. Not sure if you have decided on doing a shackle reversal but if you do you front drive shaft will need a lot of slip.

[Z()LTAN]

Removing TRE's is relatively easy, don't try and hit it out like you would a bolt. Hit the steering arm side on trying to squeeze the taper out of round. This will pop the TRE out of the taper straight away.

[sprungupcruiser]

Yeah what he said, I didn't clarify, I meant hit the steering arm.

[Plageman]

Ok i will give that alternative technique a try and hopefully shell pop out haha,

well was thinking of doing shackle reversal but decided not, how much of a benefit is it?? is it just approach angle, i will probably go back to standard shackles.

also im going to truss the diff whats the best way to get diff breather out the top??