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The SR helps approach angle but it is also supposed improve the way that the suspension cycles. I welded the old breather hole up and tapped a new hole on top of the diff pumpkin.
Braden Tagg of XRO Racing is scum and not to be dealt with. See here http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=223295
bj73 build up thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic168809.php
Plageman wrote:First off i am having a major issue removing the steering arm it just doesnt want to come off ive tried everything, heating it, bashing it and swearing at it but not budging what can i bloody do????
Hitting the steering arm with two hammers at the same time (on opposite sides of the tie rod pin) should pop it straight off. Works for me every time.
Stock hand brake cable will be fine, just remove the cable from the middle mount.
After bracing the rear diff you are going to have to get the pivot point for the rear hand brake a little offset to the top so it can get past the brace.
Stock rear drive shaft will be fine
Front you can make a square driveshaft or get a 10" slip joint from Locktup4x4
I did a SR, it performs well but i had never driven it without so i cant pass judgement.
As for the shackle reversal, solid axle Hilux front shafts have a longer slip joint as they come standard with a SR so I would get one and have it modded to suit. It will be cheaper than getting a long slip joint and having a shaft made to suit.
The standard SOA will give you more height and potential for flex but my next SOA will include a SR with frenched shackle hangers.
I'd make my own diff protector too. There's some decent off the shelf stuff around if you can't be bothered spending an hour making one. Have a look about halfway down the page on this http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagon ... j68-7.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. I think 3/8 is pretty excessive unless you like ramming boulders at 100 clicks. Like Zoltan said, 6mm should be plenty. I would also be looking to shave my diff while it's out.
Alright, so its been a LOOOOONNGGG time since my last update and i apologise, but i have had a ruff last month, i lost my dad 2 weeks ago and had a hard time doing any of the SOA, so i got stuck into it again 2 days ago and have some pics from the progress i did a bit more work than photo taking so there is not one for each step but you will be able to read between the lines...
the parts arrived..
Leafs re adjusted and in the ute with olde shackles in, awaiting diff..
Box i made under my tray while i had some spare time..
Getting measure ments right
Tractor hoisted up ute
Diff in and looking alright
Sorry bought the shit quality photos
In process doing.....
-cleaning hub parts
To do...
- Re build hubs
- Extended Brake lines
- Brakes along Diff
- Diff Breathers extended
- Steering Arms
Start on Rear Diff
Cheers guys
Last edited by Plageman on Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:01 pm, edited 4 times in total.
I will be putting a LS1 into my 80 and was going to use the marks adapters kit. Why is it unsatisfactory and why does the transmission have to move forward? I thought the bellhousing adapters moved the motor forward???
if it looks like spam, smells like spam, sounds like spam... must be spam!!
Oh yeah they are up side down it's hard to know which way those shackles go in.
Are they even good to use or should I make diff ones.
How are the new axles Tom?? On yet?
My brother is looking for lockers for his GQ patrol it's got a 6.0 in it and has plenty power
It's got 35" treps an they hold up great For the 4wd he does but we went out the other day and
He just failed in this water hole he reckons if he had some lockers it would of helped. I reckon 37" tyers
Would have helped. What kind of lockers do you think. He detroit may be a little to dear And was looking for a
Different option than air lock
Heres a video a guy took there I had to bloody nearly go swimmin to hook the strap. Lol
Removal of the backing plate lets mud fall out of the brakes instead of getting stuck in there. Also when running big offset the backing plate is exposed to rock colision.
Isnt that rod end supposed to be in the pitman arm?
You may want to look at getting some decent steering rods too. They all have 80s rod ends so stronger and smaller.
I have my drag link going into the tie rod end the same way as it was from the factory and I'd say that is your best bet mate, looking good though! Did you have to change your pinion angle much or not worry to much because you have the HP front diff?
Braden Tagg of XRO Racing is scum and not to be dealt with. See here http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=223295
bj73 build up thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic168809.php
it may need to go into the pitman arm but thats how it was. unless the doosh before me put it in backwards.
and wouldnt make a difference though i still have dilema of it hitting the other end in the pitman arm is longer again.
shit should have did that with the plate. can always do it any time though no doubt those hubs will be coming apart again. my CV wasnt looking happy any way so will replace that soon.