Drive Shaft Angles

[Pesky Pete]

I've got a real problem with my Hilux after putting a Rover 3.5 and Auto in it. The front drive shaft angle is now very steep. Did a quickie diff rotation the night before Q Rock, which fixed the diff end a bit. Problem is that the transfer end keeps popping Uni's. As soon as there is any flex at all, it just binds up and pops the uni.

I am going to look at dropping the motor down at the front but this isnt that attractive as it will then cause a few other problems. Best thing would really be a high angle shaft set up

I cant put the standard hilux double cardin on the transfer end as it is too fat to fit in the modest amount of space that is available. I have heard that the Series 2 Disco Auto had a nice small TOUGH double cardin that may fit. Any other suggestions thoughts etc.

[ozy1]

do you have a hi pionion front diff, if not it may take some of the angle out of it,

[Pesky Pete]

No dont have hi pinion and that would be of some help. At th4e moment though I am running 4.88's and to go Hi pinion front also means changing the rear ratio. Great option when the money tree starts to recover a bit, but for now, hoping to find some sort of quicker fix that involves less dollars.

I may also link the front and push the front diff forward about 4 - 6 inches.

[ozy1]

i havnt read your build up for a while now, ill need to take another look, but more than likely your running rears up front, you could also get that little bit extre by changing the spring locating hole on the diff and you may get 2mm morward movement, this will reduce the angle a bit too,

or, you can get an even longer spring pack again, say, IFS rears, make a custom front cross member mount if further forwards, and see how you go,

[slosh]

I redrilled my spring perches on the axle housing 35mm furhter back. You can go a little more than that even.

Or you can weld on longer custom spring perches. I heard Superior Engineering sell them.

Or you could go for new main leaf in spring packs (about $100 each from Carrolls- not sure), and drill the centre pin futher forward.

So theres plenty of options for moving axle forward, but then you still have to steer it, eh?

[Slunnie]

You can definately break the Disco2 front double cardin tailshafts, though the failures normally come back to the DC unis not being servicable and the bearings failing rather than a break from shock loads. AFAIK you can change the Unis out for servicable units.

[Pesky Pete]

I redrilled my spring perches on the axle housing 35mm furhter back. You can go a little more than that even.

Or you can weld on longer custom spring perches. I heard Superior Engineering sell them.

Or you could go for new main leaf in spring packs (about $100 each from Carrolls- not sure), and drill the centre pin futher forward.

So theres plenty of options for moving axle forward, but then you still have to steer it, eh?

Thanks. I think I will need to do this as well as something like a DC Joint or similar. I have put some rough custom perches on the housing the night before Q Rock. If I stick with the hilux rears in the front that is definately the plan. But I wont gain enough out of redrilled perches and will have to look at uni's with more rotation than standard hilux, or smaller DC Joints etc. Problem is agravated by the very high output of the Rover transfer case.

[bundytunna]

[shameless plug/start]
i got ifs rears if ya want em real cheap
[shameless plug /end]

[Bodge]

I've got a real problem with my Hilux after putting a Rover 3.5 and Auto in it.

From the book of Classic Quotes

[Area54]

Have you thought about cutting and rotating the knuckles, and realigning the spring perches to suit? This will tilt the third member up toward the case output flange, (may cause oil starve for the bearings though - in the front not such an issue as it will still slosh about during climbs) maintain your caster and improve the angle on your front shaft.

[Pesky Pete]

Have you thought about cutting and rotating the knuckles, and realigning the spring perches to suit? This will tilt the third member up toward the case output flange, (may cause oil starve for the bearings though - in the front not such an issue as it will still slosh about during climbs) maintain your caster and improve the angle on your front shaft.

\

Have already rotated it so that it points straight at the transfer output (Did it the night before Q Rock). Havent done nuckles yet, but will do soon. The Diff end is no problem, its the transfer end and the lack of space for a Standard Hilux DC Joint. A Standard uni here just binds. I think it has got to be a DC Or something to make it work

[RUFF]

Pete as you know i have seen this problem and you dont have any other choices other than pushing the diff forward or moving the gearbox/engine back. You wont find any tailshaft that will handle the angle you have. Even dropping the front of the motor wont help as it will then cause you a prob with the rear shaft. And i would say 6" may not even be enough.

[Pesky Pete]

Thanks Tony
I think It might be easiest to link the front in that case. A Simple 3 link is probably best. I was thinking along the lines of a 80 series 3 link front end. Moving the diff forward wont be a problem, setting up steering will be the fun bit.

[ORSM45]

tryed one of these babys? moves to 80 degrees.

[Pesky Pete]

tryed one of these babys? moves to 80 degrees.

I think I am going to try the Rangie DC Short term and do a radius arm coily conversion on the front. Think I can pump the front forward about 8 inches.

The DC Path allows me to do minimal mods to steering and keep driving in the meanwhile. The Coily path requires a fair bit put into steering, so I will research it a bit better before I leap.