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Northside 4x4 wrote:Most of the problems with very early on BEB with the 1HDT were not related to the bearings at all.
It was one bad run of rods machined incorrectly.
But because they make and machine them in batches of literally hundreds or thousands of number 1 rods, then so on for number 2 etc...
They didnt know which motors these bad rods went into, thus the recall.
That is the "company line", but there are a few choice bits of evidence that it doesn't explain. My theory is either an oiling problem (which was fixed by the time the 4 valves were out) or an oiling problem caused by crank harmonics.
If I owned an HD-T I'd be doing the shells every time I did a cam-belt. Accept they have a limited life and deal with it.
I am interested to hear more on this?
Which bits of info are you refering to?
Northside 4x4 wrote:I am interested to hear more on this?
Which bits of info are you refering to?
There's a japanese research paper co-authored by Toyota engineers on I think cavitation in crank bearings caused by crankshaft harmonics in 6 cylinder diesels. The coincidence is a little too strong. It's linked on this site somewhere.
Northside 4x4 wrote:Thats pretty much what i said though? Crank Whip/Harmonic's.
You were talking badly machined rods.
For the initial small run of bad rods yes. But for engines having problems at 100k km's on, crank whip is the cause.
Some engines didnt last 50kms out of the dealership until they started knocking.
It was very apparent in PNG where the trucks were worked hard from the get go. They seemed to get a big chunk of the failed rods initially with Toyota paying special attention to the dealerships there.
I thought the bearing replacement was a one off, all fixed??
I've not heard of cracking cranks - how many 1HDT/1HDFT have you been involved in building, obviously a few? For me only 3. I am familiar with the knocking noise you refer to, but for the engine I was dealing with the issue was excessive carbon on top of piston causing head contact. Though we would try water injection to clean it and reduce clearance. Definately got reduced clearance - because a failure in water inj system siphoned it all in the intake and it hydrolocked....
All intersting though.
Power wise after tune even, not a huge amount in it, both easy 150+kW just with bolt on bits. FT marginally more efficient in theory but not that I have seen in practice. Needs less boost to make power (but basically same fuel delivery level).
Differences are head and pistons - rods are the same (no oil feed and drain for turbo obviously although apparantly the late 1HZ had the oil feed for turbo with a plug (anyone confirm that?). Apparantly (according to Toyota)FTE pistons are an advancement on FT pistons, for those rebuilding their FT. Better oil cooling galleries in piston crown.
Old FT's are susceptable to dropping valves, 1HDT head are bulletproof.
T's have injector lines that run under inlet manifold meaning a cool intake plenum can be designed for it, FT lines run over top of manifold.... but manifold is larger and there are 12 runners.....
Small thing, but round ports on T make custom exhaust manifolds a bit easier...
I wouldnt pay much more for an FT over a T.
LX470 1HDFTE
Performance Direct Bolt On Turbos for: 1HDT/1HDFT/1HDFTE/12HT/13BT/1VDFTV/1KDFTV
my missus's old man has a 1hd-ft in his hundered series and he has just had the big end bearing go on him and now has just forked out 12 grand for a new one from toyota... i reakon just luck of the draw like any car or motor some cars st longer then others just sepends on ya serviceing and how maticulous ya are with ya cars.
dave89 wrote:my missus's old man has a 1hd-ft in his hundered series and he has just had the big end bearing go on him and now has just forked out 12 grand for a new one from toyota... i reakon just luck of the draw like any car or motor some cars st longer then others just sepends on ya serviceing and how maticulous ya are with ya cars.
First I've heard of an FT going, but the mechanical FT wasn't factory fit in a 100. The IFS 100 series has the FTE, the solid axle 105's had the 1HZ.
I've got a 280K km 1HD-T Engine sitting in my shed awaiting a donor crank because it spun #2 and cracked the journal.
From this point on once its put back together, its getting a new set of BEB's when the timing belt is done- if your handy with spanners its not a $500 job, bout $150 for the bolts and BEB's themselves (aftermarket)
