A while back I bought an ARB "style" bull bar off ebay for the right $$$ to go on our D1, im very slowly fashioning into an ARB Sahara style looking thing.
It had been sitting for a while and had suffered a bit of cancer on the under/inside where the mud and crud tends to lay. Ive been chopping the rust out of it and welding new sections back into it (all non structual) and I am at the point where I need to attach some Reovery points to it. I know this allways opens up a HUGE debate as to whats rated/strong enough but im hoping this wont go down that track.
Anway, I had to removed the pissy little 5mm plate offerings that hang under the beveled edge of the bar as the cancer had got em, what im thinking now is that ill slot the front bar and slide in some 10 (ish) mm plate and pick up the 3 bullbar mounting points for some strength. Also was thinking that ill stitch it to the bar mounts for some just-in-case-ness, and maybe even run a bead around it where it pokes through beside the number plate.
Sorta something along these lines.
One on either side, picking up the INSIDE of the chassis rails, using 3 X 1/2" bolts that also hold the bullbar on.
Will 10mm be strong enough? or should I be looking at 12 perhaps? I feel anything thicker than this will (a) look a little silly and (b) be a bit pointless as the chassis rails are like 1.6mm...
Thoughts/oppinions/suggestions
Cheers,
Robert.
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Recovery Points for D1
Moderator: Micka
Recovery Points for D1
The Box-Kite Paj: Gone...
Now: 96 TDI Disco, 2" Lift, 265's and a leaky windscreen...
Now: 96 TDI Disco, 2" Lift, 265's and a leaky windscreen...
Re: Recovery Points for D1
there may be a minimum radius on the point where it sticks out to keep people happy in terms of cleaning up a little pedestrian etc.ill show you pics of aerens old ones one day and how it was done.
id say 10 is enough,id stitch it to you existing bar mounts,will be nice and thick there then and stop any chance of twisting.do the bolts go right thru the rails and crush tube? or only through the outside section of the rail?
just stop gettin stuck and i wont have to tow you out,but seeing as though you do you better buid em strong so its safe lol
id say 10 is enough,id stitch it to you existing bar mounts,will be nice and thick there then and stop any chance of twisting.do the bolts go right thru the rails and crush tube? or only through the outside section of the rail?
just stop gettin stuck and i wont have to tow you out,but seeing as though you do you better buid em strong so its safe lol
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
Re: Recovery Points for D1
I have exactly what your talking about but instead of coming through the bar it just pokes out front the bottom. it is 10mm and I have never had a problem pulling patrols out of the holes they get stuck in.
Re: Recovery Points for D1
What sort of regulations are around that may restrict your ideas, as they sound to me as pretty dangerous if you were to collect a pedestrian?
10mm should be good enough.
10mm should be good enough.
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