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How long is a piece of string? How much money do you want to spend? How do you drive? Are you running lockers or hydro steer??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
There's a guy up in Russia with 42" boggers and a set of Cal's on a GQ. I run 38.5" boggers on Cals and could easily go to 42", just not interested.
On standard I wouldn't go past 37". I did for a while without an issue
buschmaster wrote:Oke thanks ! gq has weaker axles to GU so with gu and caloffroad i can break them driving offroad even if i try ?
Well, Im sure that if you try hard enough you'll probably get there , since everything can be broken, but I driven my GU hard and so far so good, so I would say to you slam on those 37" and when they break replace them with Cals. Yould be surprised how strong your CV's & axle are...
After you do that youre weak link will become the free wheeling hubs, but for that Superior has the medicine...
BundyRumandCoke wrote:Normal rules dont apply for this question. The OP is in Holland, same question has been posed in a UK Nissan forum.
Well that is different.
As far as the tyres go. It really does depend on how you drive. I've seen people break CalOffroad CVs with only 36 inch tyres because they didn't use their truck properly. But then I've seen other people like myself that have used factory CVs in competition for over 2 years on 36 inch tyres or larger and haven't broken anything becuase they use their trucks properly.
So I'd say just fit the tyres you want and have the spare CVs ready to go if you break the ones you have.
Well its not an unbreakable tank. If you are using diff lockers then you need to use them properly. The rear locker isn't really a problem but the front locker if not engaged at the right time or used when it shouldn't be then you will break things. If you engage your front locker when you have your steering at more than half lock and moving then you have a good chance at breaking something. Engage your locker before you get to the obstacle. If you're in mud then that is not too much worry but if you are on rocks or other high grip surfaces then you have a much higher chance of breaking things. Try to line yourself up with the obstacle and then engage your lockers and go for it.
Basically just prepare your truck for the obstacle before you get to it and you should be fine.
buschmaster wrote:Okey but what should i undertand by "properly" ?becouse the fun for me is to bang your rig totaly mad like its a unbreakable tank ?
No worries mate, just slap'em on (your tires) and enjoy Just have your Cal's as replacements, or be chicken like me and put them on (the Cals) and forget about it
Just remember what I told you about the free wheeling hubs, those WILL break So get a set from Superior and you're done
Yes thats the same i would do,place the cals an keep the standards as spare
But if you replace the freewheelhubs with superior ones what is the next weak link then ? (becouse i like to have the weakest link at a part thats not too expensive...
Yes Josem i understand what ure saying,thats also what im going to do; just keep the front and rear difflockers unlockt and when i get stuck and need them use them with care
One thing that really weakens a free wheel hub is if you don't have the joined washers on them. You know the flat bar that joins two of the hex bolts together? You can get a complete ring that you use in place of these and it makes your hub a fair bit stronger just by doing that.
Just so that we look at things in perspective. The Nissan manual hubs housing, and what takes most of the beating, is made of a very soft aluminum. That's why they break when something like an ARB and a bigger tire are used. Simply not made for that...
As far as the infamous weak link, I assure you that neither your r&p's, drive shaft, nor u-joints will give out on you if mantained propperly.
Patrol is a good reliable, strong and -- in my opinion -- over built truck; then again, if given the right conditions, anything can and will break, but still I would not worry about "weak links" -- been there, done that...
Pretty sure superior where saying even with Cals CV's once you fit their hub. The CV or axle will still be the weak link. It will just take longer to smash
turps wrote:Pretty sure superior where saying even with Cals CV's once you fit their hub. The CV or axle will still be the weak link. It will just take longer to smash
turps wrote:Pretty sure superior where saying even with Cals CV's once you fit their hub. The CV or axle will still be the weak link. It will just take longer to smash
It always is, my friend, it always is...
I actually dont mind smashing hubs there real easy to replace.
Been awhile since I broke a CV. So I think I will just keep having a spare.
turps wrote:Pretty sure superior where saying even with Cals CV's once you fit their hub. The CV or axle will still be the weak link. It will just take longer to smash
It always is, my friend, it always is...
I actually dont mind smashing hubs there real easy to replace.
Been awhile since I broke a CV. So I think I will just keep having a spare.
True. To that all I can say is "whatever works". I have the Superior hubs, with Cal´s front end and so far so good...
, since everything can be broken, but I driven my GU hard 
? 
Just have your Cal's as replacements, or be chicken like me 
and put them on (the Cals) and forget about it 
So get a set from Superior and you're done 
