Welding table ideas

[rockcrawler31]

I need to make a welding table soon. So i'm after ideas and input on what works and what's a gimmick. There's plenty of stuff on the web but i'm mainly after input from those that use them regularly what is worth the trouble of going to. This has been covered here before but methinks it's goneski.

I can either look at a whole plate table, or a segmented sliding plate table like the one's from stronghand (see below)

From those that use them often, what features do see as have to have's?

I'll be using mine for anything from building chassis's on to general automotive fabrication and panelwork, to projects around the home. I'll be doing a lot of TIG work on it so comfort and ergonomics will be important.



Discuss the following features -

Grid drilled with threaded holes for mounting jigs and holding stuff in place while working

Tool racks and mounts for hanging stuff

Height and ergonomics

Practicality of moving it around the workshop

How is the most practical way of getting the surface and the sub frame damn close to flat and level

Strong hand tables

[80's_delirious]

My ex father in law has an engineering/automotive body building busines. Their welding benches were mostly built using 100mm universal beam, a basic rectangular outside frame, with cross beams every 300mm or so.
You can easily clamp something down to the beams, or tack something to the bench, or drill and tap holes for jigging up multiple pieces. I built few foreign orders on them, worked pretty well.

You would have a good chance of sourcing second hand material for it too.

[brooksy]

Had ideas with my original build having M12 & 16 taped holes & decided against due to maintaining clean holes while general engineering. Tapped table needs a specific use only & unless in constant use, a waste of time.
Multi plate bench isn't viable again for same reasons & difficult to maintain flat.

My table is too large now & could easily be made into 2 large benches. Current bench is 2,200 x 2,100 x 16mm plate. I can only mainly suggest leaving a substantial lip to frame underneath for clamping & mounting jigs, etc.



brooksy

[rockcrawler31]

Thanks mate.

I think if i was to drill and tap i'd leave countersunk allen keys in it or just drill alla way through and leave untapped so i can just pass a bolt through.

While not a specific use bench i forsee using mine to build at least one buggy and to box a hot rod chassis at some point. I also need to hold down a pair of axle housings while i truss and plate them.

I agree on having the frame a few inches in from the edge, you're not the first person to mention that. Someone today mentioned that i should radius the corners as well so i don't continually catch my guts or hips on it.

So at this point i'm thinking the following features

2100 x 1200 x 10mm top
Drilled, but probably not tapped
Gun/torch hangers at each corner
240v dual outlet underneath with a 10 foot extension lead from it to plug into my workshop outlet
Adjustable, removeable feet that can be swapped for HD braked castors
lower bench to put welder on underneath
Some hooks and rails to hang stuff off
A tube inside tube extension rack that pulls out to support long lengths of materials or gives a clear area under for plasma cutting.

Any ideas how to get the frame dead flat and level so i can pull the sheet top down to it to get it flat?

Do those of you with a steel top just give it an occasional shot with WD40 and a bit of sandpaper to keep the rust at bay?

[tilts]

i would change your plan slightly to include some 30mm x 150mm slots. this would enable use of g or f cramps.

[CRUZAAMAD]

keep it out of the weather, weld spatter, grinding dust will make it dirty. should be sweet for rust.

being the blue mountains should be ok with rust, cold dry air, like my ute in albury was fine, went to the central coast and the rust started from the moisture, also salt in the air. .