Strength of Aftermarket diff Gears

[Baja Burley]

I have been looking into mods for a Lux axle to run big rubber (37+) and was unsure as to how aftermarket dff gears (nitro, Yukon) stack up against factory? Of course you have the benefit of choosing lower ratios, but if I'm purely chasing brute strength then are they worth it?

I can just see myself breaking alot of centers and want a decent preventative. I am sticking with lux diffs for a reason.

Cheers
Luke

[WICKED]

Every body I know running nitro's has had atleast one fail. (37-40s)

[WICKED]

The lower the ratio the stinger. 4.1 better than 5.29.

4.3's with soild pinion spacers would be your best bet

Patrol centers are stronger.

[evanstaniland]

I run nitro 4.88s and have done one but if you drive like a fuckwit something will give wether it's factory or aftermarket

[old lux]

i got 5.29 in my lux with 35s and a turbo 2.8 and in the front i was breaking cvs now i got lngs nothing as opf yet and in the rear i snapped axles and not a center. both locked diffs and i run my 35s at 10psi when wheeling on rocks

[MogLux]

If you read the install guidelines for most after market gear manufactures, it states a run in process.. when fitting these to rock crawlers etc.. this run in process never happens and causes fatigue on the gears .. this is the most common reason for failure.. Ask shawn Clancy, Chris Tierney etc.. how many diff they have broken in there luxs for this reason..

[Shadow]

If you read the install guidelines for most after market gear manufactures, it states a run in process.. when fitting these to rock crawlers etc.. this run in process never happens and causes fatigue on the gears .. this is the most common reason for failure.. Ask shawn Clancy, Chris Tierney etc.. how many diff they have broken in there luxs for this reason..

I believe the run in is more to do with the overheating caused with new gears.

They overheat the oil, which cooks and no longer protects the gears, and then bad shit happens.

theres no reason this cant be done on a rock crawler, in fact, how many rock crawlers jump in and go for a 1hr drive at 100km/hr?

Thats from reading nitro gears run in procedure.

[tweak'e]

I have been looking into mods for a Lux axle to run big rubber (37+) and was unsure as to how aftermarket dff gears (nitro, Yukon) stack up against factory? .........

factory gears are the weakest, with exception of a few parts like cross pin.
aftermarkets are fine as long as you don't have factory 4.88 gears (i think its that ratio) as aftermarket gears won't fit.

[Willy Hilux]

Use 4.3's, If crawling then tighten the shit out of the carrier bearings which pre-stretches the housing stopping deflection. Run a High pinion up front which is also stronger in forward motion as this is what you should be doing most of. Run solid pinion bearing spacer and get the backlash as little as possible.

[Baja Burley]

what will that (tight carrier bearings) do if i run a High speed event? obviously heat up like a MoFo but what dangers?

Why is a high pinion stronger? These are the landcruiser units yeah? Are the gears in a stock lux front not reverse cut?

[brad 93hilux]

what will that (tight carrier bearings) do if i run a High speed event? obviously heat up like a MoFo but what dangers?

Why is a high pinion stronger? These are the landcruiser units yeah? Are the gears in a stock lux front not reverse cut?

Tight carrier bearings and low backlash will heat things up and not advised for a road driven truck. SHADOW answered your question on what happens above.

Having everything tight is ok for a rock crawler.

Yeh high pinion front is from a few cruisers ie- 80, 105, think 75 and bundera.

Should go high pinion any way as you have a lot better tailshaft clearance, its pretty hard to bend a shaft on a high pinion lux as you land on the leaf springs before shaft and when it slides off it is past front driveshaft.

Yeh high pinion is reverse cut low pinion isn't.

Another option is getting aftermarket gears cryo treated witch is stronger again, BUT they will apparently wear faster this way and are more suited to crawler then road driven truck.

Brad

[tweak'e]

depends on what you call tight.
have a look at
http://www.gearinstalls.com/cbpl.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ost5844489" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Baja Burley]

Damn that is tight. I set the rear diff up with as little backlash as possible but just a tad above zero. Is Zero OK for a crawler? When I've got the front diff out again, I'll crank away at those carrier bearing too! Would a heavier oil give some lenience to higher speed with tight backlash?

It's a designated trailer queen crawler so will never see the likes of 100km/h again unfortunately.

[tweak'e]

if i remember right, 150ftlb is still within factory specs for carrier bearing rolling torque and 200ftlb is somewhere around the upper limit.

[Shadow]

Damn that is tight. I set the rear diff up with as little backlash as possible but just a tad above zero. Is Zero OK for a crawler? When I've got the front diff out again, I'll crank away at those carrier bearing too! Would a heavier oil give some lenience to higher speed with tight backlash?

It's a designated trailer queen crawler so will never see the likes of 100km/h again unfortunately.

the backlash must be to spec, and without the correct backlash you wont have a good gear mesh.

The preload is what you increase, i think the rolling preload is around 10in/lbs for about 150ft/lbs of carrier side adjuster preload.