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body lift
some people use square section hollow steel, with top bit bolted to the body, and a seperate bolt through the chassis at the 4 captive bolts, with solid blocks or square section with crush sleeves at the other bolt points.
some people tap a thread in the lift block and screw it onto the body bolts, then then bolted through the chassis with a normal bolt..
kits like you describe do exist and are the best way. christover
some people tap a thread in the lift block and screw it onto the body bolts, then then bolted through the chassis with a normal bolt..
kits like you describe do exist and are the best way. christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
I bought a body lift here in the US from somewhere (can't remember the name), and it was a bolt on 2" lift. My wife and i put it in in 2 hours. I'm pretty sure it used the extended bolt things. It must have because there was only one nut on each mount to have to do up. It was one of the easiest and most simple things i've ever done on a sierra. It was about $80 or $100 US....
They were nylon/plastic/something other than metal blocks too...
They were nylon/plastic/something other than metal blocks too...
My tires were rubbing in the front, so I trimmed the hood, and now they're fine...
i have just been in the market for a body lift kit and no one makes a 2 inch anymore.
go to snake racing and get there bolt on 3 inch lift kit it is approx $680
go to snake racing and get there bolt on 3 inch lift kit it is approx $680
TOYZUKI 96 coily zook,lux diffs, 3 inch suspension lift,3 inch body lift, 33'sMTRS,series 4 hopper,power steer,twin air lockers,4 LINK front and rear,2 inch spacers(GOT WIDTH)
RB zook wrote:i have just been in the market for a body lift kit and no one makes a 2 inch anymore.
go to snake racing and get there bolt on 3 inch lift kit it is approx $680
I think ive written this before but suzisport sells a complete kit including 10 blocks lengthened bolts and even internally threaded bolts to go up the centre blocks where the studs are. $320 i think
all 'BARRED' up
You need to take the gear sticks out and bend them a little to allow clearence. You also need to bend the metal brake lines a little ,just under the master cylinder drill new holes in the inner guard and move the mounting down a little ,then lift the junction block with the rubber hoses up one hole , you'll see what I mean when you look ,follow the lines down from the master cylinder. Steering shaft needs to be extended (spacers or 2 rag joints ). radiator is ok.grey zook wrote:are there any hidden problems with doin a body lift? do the shifters hit or do you kneed longer brake hoses and what about the radiator?
The 2" body lift i did (that i mentioned before) gave me no problems with shifters, or brake lines. I think i had to disconnect the front brake line retaining clips while i did the job, but afterwards, just hooked em back up. Too easy...
My tires were rubbing in the front, so I trimmed the hood, and now they're fine...
mtzook wrote:The 2" body lift i did (that i mentioned before) gave me no problems with shifters, or brake lines. I think i had to disconnect the front brake line retaining clips while i did the job, but afterwards, just hooked em back up. Too easy...
ditto that on mine... i just spun the metal bit that holds the x-fer gearstick boot 180 degrees. unscrewed front brake clip, didn't need to reattach it. there was enuf shaft sticking into the steering box joint that i didn't need to space it either...
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part of the newy conspiracy...
part of the newy conspiracy...
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