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Broken Chev Starter motor
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Broken Chev Starter motor
Snapped the nose off my starter this morning Anyone know why this would happen? and a fix.
The background info. For a couple of months now the starter has been working fine except every so ofter it would seem to jam while cranking (just stop) if you hit the key again it would crank fine. Then about 2 weeks ago it played up and would only stay engaged for about one turn of the engine. So I pulley the starter out, stripped it down and cleaned all the mud out. refitted it and all was good except for the jamming issue. Then this morning it cranked and jammed so I hit the key again and it mad a crunching noise and voila broken starter. Teeth on the flywheel seem to be OK where the motor stopped when it broke, only slightly rounded where the gear hit them when I tried to crank it after the break.
Anyone got any ideas. And where to get a new starter cheap in the outer eastern suburbs, I've had Performance Warehouse in Mitcham suggested to me already. Repco want about $270 trade price and would have to get me one in.
Thanks in advance...
Edit: I can't spell
The background info. For a couple of months now the starter has been working fine except every so ofter it would seem to jam while cranking (just stop) if you hit the key again it would crank fine. Then about 2 weeks ago it played up and would only stay engaged for about one turn of the engine. So I pulley the starter out, stripped it down and cleaned all the mud out. refitted it and all was good except for the jamming issue. Then this morning it cranked and jammed so I hit the key again and it mad a crunching noise and voila broken starter. Teeth on the flywheel seem to be OK where the motor stopped when it broke, only slightly rounded where the gear hit them when I tried to crank it after the break.
Anyone got any ideas. And where to get a new starter cheap in the outer eastern suburbs, I've had Performance Warehouse in Mitcham suggested to me already. Repco want about $270 trade price and would have to get me one in.
Thanks in advance...
Edit: I can't spell
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
tuff75 wrote:Dave try shopping around think you'd be able to pick one up for under $150. If i get time i'll ring around for you.
Kyle
Thanx, I'll try and ring a couple of places during lunch tomorrow.
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
As discussed eslewhere on the forum,are you using the factory bolts with the Knurling under the bolt head.This is to help prevent them coming
loose.
It dosen't take much wear between the two gears before the pinion can ride over the ring gear and jam.
How is she running when she fires up.You are not hydralicing through a blown head gasket are you?
J Top
loose.
It dosen't take much wear between the two gears before the pinion can ride over the ring gear and jam.
How is she running when she fires up.You are not hydralicing through a blown head gasket are you?
J Top
J Top wrote:As discussed eslewhere on the forum,are you using the factory bolts with the Knurling under the bolt head.This is to help prevent them coming
loose.
It dosen't take much wear between the two gears before the pinion can ride over the ring gear and jam.
How is she running when she fires up.You are not hydralicing through a blown head gasket are you?
J Top
Factory bolts AFAIK, they have a cross hatched looking part where the thrad finishes and they do have a split washers on them, dunno it this would be a prob. Motor runs fine, needs a tune but no blown head gaskets.
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
Hey Dave,
Check out www.ebay.com.au. Under automotive parts section. There is a guy on there that sells high-torque starters brand new for around $190. He also has a bunch of other cheap new performance parts. I was thinking about trying one on my chev when the starter gives up (starting to sound less than healthy after 5 months - cost me $180 or so new, bit unreliable in hot weather, tho not much prob in Melbourne at moment ).
If you get one plz let us know what it is like for future reference.
btw - I don't know the person that sells them, not affiliated with them or whatever.
T.T
Check out www.ebay.com.au. Under automotive parts section. There is a guy on there that sells high-torque starters brand new for around $190. He also has a bunch of other cheap new performance parts. I was thinking about trying one on my chev when the starter gives up (starting to sound less than healthy after 5 months - cost me $180 or so new, bit unreliable in hot weather, tho not much prob in Melbourne at moment ).
If you get one plz let us know what it is like for future reference.
btw - I don't know the person that sells them, not affiliated with them or whatever.
T.T
Re: ??
mav wrote:when you refitted the starter did you check the starter pinion to ring gear clearance sometimes it needs to be shimmed.
Nope, didn't know it had to just put it back in the way it came out...
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
Tonka Tough wrote:Hey Dave,
Check out www.ebay.com.au. Under automotive parts section. There is a guy on there that sells high-torque starters brand new for around $190. He also has a bunch of other cheap new performance parts. I was thinking about trying one on my chev when the starter gives up (starting to sound less than healthy after 5 months - cost me $180 or so new, bit unreliable in hot weather, tho not much prob in Melbourne at moment ).
If you get one plz let us know what it is like for future reference.
btw - I don't know the person that sells them, not affiliated with them or whatever.
T.T
Thanx I'll have a look.
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
Re: ??
you can buy the shims or just cut some out of shim plate, also when getting the new starter i think there is a difference between 153 and 168 tooth ring gears starter motors.
MKPatrolGuy wrote:mav wrote:when you refitted the starter did you check the starter pinion to ring gear clearance sometimes it needs to be shimmed.
Nope, didn't know it had to just put it back in the way it came out...
see ya mav
Re: ??
mav wrote:you can buy the shims or just cut some out of shim plate, also when getting the new starter i think there is a difference between 153 and 168 tooth ring gears starter motors.MKPatrolGuy wrote:mav wrote:when you refitted the starter did you check the starter pinion to ring gear clearance sometimes it needs to be shimmed.
Nope, didn't know it had to just put it back in the way it came out...
Yeah there are 2 different starters dunno which one I have. I think I'll get my mechanic to have a look, I don't want to break another one.
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
my original starter fitted to my motor suffered a similar fate.
The nose cone snaped off after several weeks of jaming,
the problem was that the starter was
a to suit a 168 tooth fly wheel not a 153 (as fitted)
b was'nt shimmed properly
the cruiser was actually on it's side when when the nose cone snapped off
and it was it's maiden voyage.
i replaced it with a hi-torque starter, then spent many annoying hours shimming the thing correctly.
The nose cone snaped off after several weeks of jaming,
the problem was that the starter was
a to suit a 168 tooth fly wheel not a 153 (as fitted)
b was'nt shimmed properly
the cruiser was actually on it's side when when the nose cone snapped off
and it was it's maiden voyage.
i replaced it with a hi-torque starter, then spent many annoying hours shimming the thing correctly.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
dont waste ya time or money fitting a std starter.... get a "HiTorque", you'll never look back !!
ring Sam @ "Enginemart" on 0403 741 708, he has plenty of them and is located @ NarreWarren.
for Sam's home number PM me
Kingy
p/s
he is also the cheapest Chev parts supplier around .....
ring Sam @ "Enginemart" on 0403 741 708, he has plenty of them and is located @ NarreWarren.
for Sam's home number PM me
Kingy
p/s
he is also the cheapest Chev parts supplier around .....
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Well, I ended up getting Hi-torque starter motor today and fitted it up. Needed one shim to mesh properly and is all up and running again.
P.S. Kyle thanks for the ringing around for prices, but geelong was a bit far for me to go.
P.S. Kyle thanks for the ringing around for prices, but geelong was a bit far for me to go.
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
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