removing lockers

[roly]

ok, i'm taking the airlockers out of my truck

what do you do with the airline hole in the housing?

[Cheezy4x4]

2 part apoxy

[roly]

cool thx , will add to the missus' shopping list

[Cheezy4x4]

Or tapp and plug.

[MQ080]

I asked team special this one day and he said weld over it... but i thought they were cast?!?!

If their not though Roly weld would be the go.

[roly]

briarne might be doing it yet! depends how lazy i am

i booty fabbed my fuel sender pickup pipe today with rubber hose insde the tank

[Yarno]

just use a 1/4 NPT plug from Ryco or Enzed

[hypo]

just use a 1/4 NPT plug from Ryco or Enzed

thinking the same.

or just drill out the bulkhead fitting 2 6 or 8mm then tap it and put a bolt into it so that the next bloke can just replace the brass bulkhead fitting u have sealed if he every puts lockers in it

[MQ080]

just use a 1/4 NPT plug from Ryco or Enzed

thinking the same.

or just drill out the bulkhead fitting 2 6 or 8mm then tap it and put a bolt into it so that the next bloke can just replace the brass bulkhead fitting u have sealed if he every puts lockers in it

good point Hypo

[roly]

2 part expoxy and drive 350m to my closest nissan dealer to trade sounds easier

[dumbdunce]

sell the truck with the lockers in it.

[Daisy]

sell the truck with the lockers in it.

Prolly make more without lockers.

Dealer prolly woudnt change his quote with 'lockers'

TOM

[dumbdunce]

sell the truck with the lockers in it.

Prolly make more without lockers.

Dealer prolly woudnt change his quote with 'lockers'

TOM

don't have to sell it to a dealer, makes the vehicle far more saleable at private sale.

it costs significant time and money to pull the lockers out even if you have the tolls and skills to do it yourself. sure you net about $1000 by selling them once they're out but knowing Roly, two or three days pay isn't going to be worth the effort of getting all mucky or paying someone to pull them out.

[tritonasuras]

from memory the small bolt/cap thing that comes in the end of the arb compressor (has allen key head) actually fits perfectly into the locker hole thread.. Just use some sealant.... o, n a bit of black paint...

Rob

[roly]

sell the truck with the lockers in it.

Prolly make more without lockers.

Dealer prolly woudnt change his quote with 'lockers'

TOM

don't have to sell it to a dealer, makes the vehicle far more saleable at private sale.

it costs significant time and money to pull the lockers out even if you have the tolls and skills to do it yourself. sure you net about $1000 by selling them once they're out but knowing Roly, two or three days pay isn't going to be worth the effort of getting all mucky or paying someone to pull them out.

i'm up for the challenge its not that hard, undo prop, diff housing, pull drive shafts out remove centres etc etc

[dumbdunce]

i'm up for the challenge its not that hard, undo prop, diff housing, pull drive shafts out remove centres etc etc

It's a bigger job than I think you think it is. the bare bones of it:


<locker removal 101 lecture>
front:

jack up and out on stands
remove wheels
drain oil
disconnect and remove air line
disconnect propshaft from diff flange

remove both locking hub outers
remove c clips (need outside c clip pliers)
remove locking hub inners
remove brake caliper
unstake wheel bearing retaining nut retaining washer
remove wheel bearing retaining nuts (need 54mm socket)
remove spindle and brake disk assembly taking carenot to get muck in the wheel bearing
remove stub axle retaining bolts
remove stub axle
withdraw CV joint and drive shaft from knuckle approx 20cm to allow diff to be removed

undo and release driver side tierod end from knuckle arm (need tierod end puller or two-hammer skillz) (might not be required on GU, not sure)

undo diff centre retaining bolts/nuts
withdraw diff centre from axle housing being careful not to drop it

set diff in vice, pinion flange down, measure crownwheel backlash (need dial gauge and magnetic stand)
release hard air line bulkhead fitting from case
remove carrier bearing adjuster nut pawls and bolts
remove side air housing being careful not to damage o-rings or bundy tube
remove carrier bearing retaining bolts
remove carrier bearing retainers, adjuster nuts and side air housing retainer ring
lift carrier and crownwheel assembly from centre housing.

set centre housing aside, set carrier in a soft jaw vice.
remove crownwheel retaining bolts
using a press and press plates remove the crownwheel from the carrier
using a 2 jaw bearing puller remove the carrier bearings from the carrier

hooray the locker it out!


assembly:

fill in hole in centre housing left by air line bulkhead fitting (methods discussed above)
fit centre housing in vice with the pinion flange pointing down.
clean all traces of gasket and sealant from the mounting flange, don't get any chunks inside the housing.
check pinion bearing preload and end float, if ok proceed.

find old open carrier
find old open carrier adjuster nut discarded when locker was fitted
fit crownwheel to old open carrier. may require heating in an oven and/or a press.
reinstall crownwheel retaining bolts with threadlocking compond, and torque to specification (requires torque wrench)
fit carrier bearings to old open carrier. requires a press or a lot of skill with a hammer and drift.


lightly oil carrier bearings, install carrier into centre housing.
install adjuster nuts being very careful not to cross the threads
install carrier bearing retainers once again taking special care not to cross the threads
install carrier bearing retainer bolts finger tight +1/2 turn
set ring gear backlash and carrier bearing preload (need dial gauge, small vernier low Nm torque wrench, 2-pin adjuster nut wrench)
check tooth engagement pattern (need bearing blue, red lead or equivalent)
if preload, backlash and pattern are good, torque up carrier bearing retaining bolts, refit adjuster nut locking pawls and bolts.

reinstall diff:

clean all traces of old gasket and sealant from axle housing mounting face
spread a bead of new silicone sealant on the axle housing mounting face
lift differential assembly into position being careful not to drop it or damage anything
install and torque up carrier retaining bolts/nuts

the rest of the install in the reverse of the removal procedure with attention to the following:

before assembly, check swivel hub bearings for play and correct preload. if any play is evident the swivel hub bearings should be renewed.

check the grease in the CV joints for discoloration, water, oil, or other contamination. if required, disassemble, clean, reassemble and repack the CV joints.

thoroughly clean and inspect the wheel bearings. if any damage, pitting, scoring or scratching is evident, replace the wheel bearings. repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease.

when reinstalling the spindles, check that the wheel bearing preload is within specifications. need 54mm socket and low Nm torque wrench or spring scale.

brake caliper retaining bolts should have a little thread locking compound applied.

don't forget to refill the housing with the required grade and quantity of lubricant before road testing.

then you can start on the rear...

if you've never done if before and even if you have all the tools required, budget 6 - 8 hours per diff, assuming everything goes according to plan. a professional workshop with a hoist and air tools might just squeak it in under 2.5 hours per end.

it is a big job to do properly and before you start decide whether or not you can finish, it will cost extra to get someone to come to you to finish the job, and the vehicle is completely immobile once you get started.


</locker removal 101 lecture>

[Daisy]

i'm up for the challenge its not that hard, undo prop, diff housing, pull drive shafts out remove centres etc etc

It's a bigger job than I think you think it is. the bare bones of it:


<locker removal 101 lecture>
front:

jack up and out on stands
remove wheels
drain oil
disconnect and remove air line
disconnect propshaft from diff flange

remove both locking hub outers
remove c clips (need outside c clip pliers)
remove locking hub inners
remove brake caliper
unstake wheel bearing retaining nut retaining washer
remove wheel bearing retaining nuts (need 54mm socket)
remove spindle and brake disk assembly taking carenot to get muck in the wheel bearing
remove stub axle retaining bolts
remove stub axle
withdraw CV joint and drive shaft from knuckle approx 20cm to allow diff to be removed

undo and release driver side tierod end from knuckle arm (need tierod end puller or two-hammer skillz) (might not be required on GU, not sure)

undo diff centre retaining bolts/nuts
withdraw diff centre from axle housing being careful not to drop it

set diff in vice, pinion flange down, measure crownwheel backlash (need dial gauge and magnetic stand)
release hard air line bulkhead fitting from case
remove carrier bearing adjuster nut pawls and bolts
remove side air housing being careful not to damage o-rings or bundy tube
remove carrier bearing retaining bolts
remove carrier bearing retainers, adjuster nuts and side air housing retainer ring
lift carrier and crownwheel assembly from centre housing.

set centre housing aside, set carrier in a soft jaw vice.
remove crownwheel retaining bolts
using a press and press plates remove the crownwheel from the carrier
using a 2 jaw bearing puller remove the carrier bearings from the carrier

hooray the locker it out!


assembly:

fill in hole in centre housing left by air line bulkhead fitting (methods discussed above)
fit centre housing in vice with the pinion flange pointing down.
clean all traces of gasket and sealant from the mounting flange, don't get any chunks inside the housing.
check pinion bearing preload and end float, if ok proceed.

find old open carrier
find old open carrier adjuster nut discarded when locker was fitted
fit crownwheel to old open carrier. may require heating in an oven and/or a press.
reinstall crownwheel retaining bolts with threadlocking compond, and torque to specification (requires torque wrench)
fit carrier bearings to old open carrier. requires a press or a lot of skill with a hammer and drift.


lightly oil carrier bearings, install carrier into centre housing.
install adjuster nuts being very careful not to cross the threads
install carrier bearing retainers once again taking special care not to cross the threads
install carrier bearing retainer bolts finger tight +1/2 turn
set ring gear backlash and carrier bearing preload (need dial gauge, small vernier low Nm torque wrench, 2-pin adjuster nut wrench)
check tooth engagement pattern (need bearing blue, red lead or equivalent)
if preload, backlash and pattern are good, torque up carrier bearing retaining bolts, refit adjuster nut locking pawls and bolts.

reinstall diff:

clean all traces of old gasket and sealant from axle housing mounting face
spread a bead of new silicone sealant on the axle housing mounting face
lift differential assembly into position being careful not to drop it or damage anything
install and torque up carrier retaining bolts/nuts

the rest of the install in the reverse of the removal procedure with attention to the following:

before assembly, check swivel hub bearings for play and correct preload. if any play is evident the swivel hub bearings should be renewed.

check the grease in the CV joints for discoloration, water, oil, or other contamination. if required, disassemble, clean, reassemble and repack the CV joints.

thoroughly clean and inspect the wheel bearings. if any damage, pitting, scoring or scratching is evident, replace the wheel bearings. repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease.

when reinstalling the spindles, check that the wheel bearing preload is within specifications. need 54mm socket and low Nm torque wrench or spring scale.

brake caliper retaining bolts should have a little thread locking compound applied.

don't forget to refill the housing with the required grade and quantity of lubricant before road testing.

then you can start on the rear...

if you've never done if before and even if you have all the tools required, budget 6 - 8 hours per diff, assuming everything goes according to plan. a professional workshop with a hoist and air tools might just squeak it in under 2.5 hours per end.

it is a big job to do properly and before you start decide whether or not you can finish, it will cost extra to get someone to come to you to finish the job, and the vehicle is completely immobile once you get started.


</locker removal 101 lecture>

D'OH

u FORGOT the

No job is complete without the booze handy

[dumbdunce]

D'OH

u FORGOT the

No job is complete without the booze handy

hrm yeah better throw in a few #6's, and allow another couple of hours