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Stronger CVs
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Stronger CVs
does anyone know or manufacture stronger cv's for IFS hiluxes?
MY04 Jeep Wrangler
MY07 SS Ute
MY07 SS Ute
Re: Stronger CVs
maty wrote:does anyone know or manufacture stronger cv's for IFS hiluxes?
Mate I don't know anyone in Oz who does a specific CV mod for a IFS toyota CV but I have seen sites in the US that use Porsche CV's (can't remember the model 930?)......
I have done a search for ya and I found the site where I read about them. See below. You would probably have to spend a bit of $ to get this mod done here and its mainly for desert/jumping style trucks although there is a fair bit more travel than stock, your still not gaining centre clearance as the Idependant front wheel stations compress.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/features/desertrat/
Here is a all in one solution hexy but stronger http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/drivetrn/ifs9.htm
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Twisted by Design
Re: Stronger CVs
maty wrote:does anyone know or manufacture stronger cv's for IFS hiluxes?
I was hoping to look into this a bit more one day. I had read about using the porsche CV's before, but surely you can get custom ones that handle extra travel??
The reason I'd like to get them is, at the moment I have my front wound up too high and the boot splits about every year or so. And I'd also like to do a 2" ball joint lift, but am worried the std. CV's wont cope ith the extra angle that the CV will be and the travel gained.
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
cv
i have already blown the cv's and am wanting to do some touring, however require better reliability out of the cv's. - what is the cheapest you guys know that i can buy a spare? - or stronger replacement.
thanks mat
ps . i have not increased boost and i am not running dtronic. - the truck is standard. running - 32x11.5 2"lift.
thanks mat
ps . i have not increased boost and i am not running dtronic. - the truck is standard. running - 32x11.5 2"lift.
MY04 Jeep Wrangler
MY07 SS Ute
MY07 SS Ute
Re: Stronger CVs
TWISTY_TOY94 wrote:maty wrote:does anyone know or manufacture stronger cv's for IFS hiluxes?
I was hoping to look into this a bit more one day. I had read about using the porsche CV's before, but surely you can get custom ones that handle extra travel??
The reason I'd like to get them is, at the moment I have my front wound up too high and the boot splits about every year or so. And I'd also like to do a 2" ball joint lift, but am worried the std. CV's wont cope ith the extra angle that the CV will be and the travel gained.
Well the Porsche CV's are custom, it is just the doner bits. You could ring CV specialists and some might have a option but I doubt it as it would be a rare mod in OZ. I know there is a market for modded CV's in the car side of it as I was going to put a Mitsubishi/Honda hybrids in my subaru that were stronger and cheaper but in the end it was just a wheel bearing problem. These were offered by a mob who used em to drag race in Darwin.
I did own a hilux and was doing this very same research 3 years ago. Alas I found it wasn't worth the effort and just got a live axle truck in the end.
I think the only option would be to import or to do a lot of ground work with a CV specialist/'s to get a local solution if you are dead set keen on retaining IFS.
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Twisted by Design
J Top wrote:I thought the ball joint spacers reduced CV angles.
With a raised truck the shorter top A arm pulls in quickly as the wheel drops,tilting the upright in at the top and accentuating CV angles.
A spacer raises the top arm closer to horozontal ,reducing CV angle.
J Top
Kinda, depends what your using the spacer for, just more travel, or more travel and some lift. It raises the top arm, but if you leave your torsion bar adjustment it actually pushes the lower arm down increasing CV angle. The other problem is the extra 2" of down travel that has been gained and wether the CV will handle full droop.
The attached pic kinda shows how it works...
But I think I'll go see a CV specialist soon and see what they say. I think it could be done, but for how much will be the question??
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
Twisted by Design
My personal opinion is to just source stronger after market CV boots, they exist just have to find them.
The issue with the Toyo IFS is that by getting a custom stronger CV you will break crownwheels. They are just not strong enough.
There are 2 choices :-
- if you want a bullet proof Toyo IFS set up I would be looking at swapping in a 100 Series or current Prado diff CV's into your truck. Crownwheel is 8" compared to 7.5" and the CV's/axles are way bigger. Also the fitment of a ARB locker will stop the diff centre flex that contributes to the stripping of crownwheel teeth.
As to fitment, it's all Toyo stuff so it should work.
- do a SAS
I was in the same boat spend $2K or so on a bulletproof set up (the Mitsu's have idler arm/tie rod issues running 33" + tyres but CV's & diff are quite strong) or spend a bit more and do a SAS. The bulletproof IFS would only give me reliability running 35-36" tyres but no more wheel travel and still limited with the height due to the torsion bars.
The SAS would give shitloads more flex and be able to lift the thing higher to get more belly clearance. Onroad handling is not an issue for me.
This is what I've decided to do.
The upper balljoint spacers don't in themselves change the CV angles they allow more room between the upper wisbone and bumpstop to achieve either more lift or a little more travel. I would be very wary to install them on a Toyo IFS. The upper wishbone is not parallel to the tie rod anymore and some say this can cause huge bump steer issues.
Some of the Mitsu boys have done this mod with mixed results, heaps more lift and travel but more regular bending of idler arms with 33" tyres.
The issue with the Toyo IFS is that by getting a custom stronger CV you will break crownwheels. They are just not strong enough.
There are 2 choices :-
- if you want a bullet proof Toyo IFS set up I would be looking at swapping in a 100 Series or current Prado diff CV's into your truck. Crownwheel is 8" compared to 7.5" and the CV's/axles are way bigger. Also the fitment of a ARB locker will stop the diff centre flex that contributes to the stripping of crownwheel teeth.
As to fitment, it's all Toyo stuff so it should work.
- do a SAS
I was in the same boat spend $2K or so on a bulletproof set up (the Mitsu's have idler arm/tie rod issues running 33" + tyres but CV's & diff are quite strong) or spend a bit more and do a SAS. The bulletproof IFS would only give me reliability running 35-36" tyres but no more wheel travel and still limited with the height due to the torsion bars.
The SAS would give shitloads more flex and be able to lift the thing higher to get more belly clearance. Onroad handling is not an issue for me.
This is what I've decided to do.
The upper balljoint spacers don't in themselves change the CV angles they allow more room between the upper wisbone and bumpstop to achieve either more lift or a little more travel. I would be very wary to install them on a Toyo IFS. The upper wishbone is not parallel to the tie rod anymore and some say this can cause huge bump steer issues.
Some of the Mitsu boys have done this mod with mixed results, heaps more lift and travel but more regular bending of idler arms with 33" tyres.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Minion #1
I would say PM strange rover or ruff guys, they are currently testing their own versions of the heat treated / customised c.v joints loved by so many in the states. I'm pretty sure the treatment can be done to any c.v joint, but as frank said it will place the weak point further down the chain. The only thing that seems to limit crownwheel and pinion damage on the IFS toys is an airlocker [other than modifying driving styles], the airlocker uses a different carrier which being different to the standard one it stops the seperation of the crownwheel / pinion which is commonly believed to be the major reason the IFS strips the crownwheel so easy.
Good luck with it, in the long run if you insist on wheeling a later model toy hard, financially a SAS is the best option.
Cheers, Jeremy
Good luck with it, in the long run if you insist on wheeling a later model toy hard, financially a SAS is the best option.
Cheers, Jeremy

Bitsamissin wrote:My personal opinion is to just source stronger after market CV boots, they exist just have to find them.
The issue with the Toyo IFS is that by getting a custom stronger CV you will break crownwheels. They are just not strong enough.
There are 2 choices :-
- if you want a bullet proof Toyo IFS set up I would be looking at swapping in a 100 Series or current Prado diff CV's into your truck. Crownwheel is 8" compared to 7.5" and the CV's/axles are way bigger. Also the fitment of a ARB locker will stop the diff centre flex that contributes to the stripping of crownwheel teeth.
As to fitment, it's all Toyo stuff so it should work.
- do a SAS
I was in the same boat spend $2K or so on a bulletproof set up (the Mitsu's have idler arm/tie rod issues running 33" + tyres but CV's & diff are quite strong) or spend a bit more and do a SAS. The bulletproof IFS would only give me reliability running 35-36" tyres but no more wheel travel and still limited with the height due to the torsion bars.
The SAS would give shitloads more flex and be able to lift the thing higher to get more belly clearance. Onroad handling is not an issue for me.
This is what I've decided to do.
The upper balljoint spacers don't in themselves change the CV angles they allow more room between the upper wisbone and bumpstop to achieve either more lift or a little more travel. I would be very wary to install them on a Toyo IFS. The upper wishbone is not parallel to the tie rod anymore and some say this can cause huge bump steer issues.
Some of the Mitsu boys have done this mod with mixed results, heaps more lift and travel but more regular bending of idler arms with 33" tyres.
Agree with you Frank on the above and yeah the Hundgy stuff would be better but if you were running 33' + and not locked I think you would still break an 8 inch. They have had the same issues yeah?
SAS if you must I reckon or another truck!
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Re: cv
maty wrote:i have already blown the cv's and am wanting to do some touring, however require better reliability out of the cv's. - what is the cheapest you guys know that i can buy a spare? - or stronger replacement.
thanks mat
ps . i have not increased boost and i am not running dtronic. - the truck is standard. running - 32x11.5 2"lift.
Maty, I have a couple spare CV's if ya interested. You have a PM. You must be doing well, all I did was bust crown wheels (4 of the buggers) and not 1 CV. I also had a loc-rite but that was only for the last diff worth.
Alec
GO the 80...The mods have started :-)
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