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I'm sure heaps of 80 series owners on this forum have completed 2" bodylifts
After researching the different body lift kits available I've gone with replacing the rubber mounts completely rather than shoving 2" of Nylon between the rubber and body.
For this 3" Polyurethane blocks are used to give 2" of body lift. With this decided I’ve started looking at the body and chassis and have a few questions....
- Radiator gets yanked and brackets re-drilled 2" lower Easy.
- Front Bumper?
- Rear Bumper? Could this be an issue? the centre section looks to be part of the chassis, and the plastic corner pieces look to be attached to the body!!!
- AT Shifter? Looks to be ok to slide up.
- Steering shaft?
- Aything else?
If you've done the mod then any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking at kicking this off on the weekend hopefully. Thanks
My 80's not body lifted but I can answer your question about the rear bumper. The centre piece is attached to the chassis and the plastic bits do connect to the body so a solution would be to raise the centre section up the height of the body loft and it would all look ok with the bumperettes attaching back to the body.
Anyway wot size tyres do you run?? as I know heaps of 80's that handle 35inch's without a bodylift.
80 series, Locked both ends, Q78ed & a massive 57 k/w to boot!!!!
a solution would be to raise the centre section up the height of the body loft
Doh! so now we're talking about cutting off the end of the chassis and welding it back on again two inches higher!! I can't believe this is the only solution.
re: The tyres, 35's on 10" rims. The plan was to go to 37's.
I think he was refering to the alloy bit that sits ontop of the chassis. A thin piece of steel painted black and rivited on would cover the gap.
Otherwise, you should have no more problems.
I would be considering carefully using Poly instead of the rubber mounts, as the poly does not have any give in it like the rubber does, and you will probably crack the body mounts after a while.
Andrew
I think he was refering to the alloy bit that sits ontop of the chassis.
How would the bumperettes (lurve the name ) then bolt up to this thin bit???
poly does not have any give in it like the rubber does, and you will probably crack the body mounts after a while.
We're using PolyUrethane not polyethelene or Nylon. PolyU does not transmitt vibrations and has a greater free breaking strength that steel, yet it is still flexible. Admittedly not at flexi as rubber, which is why the latest trend is to move back to genuine rubber bits for the suspension. It is however more durable than rubber. I guess only time will tell.
MMMMM
Can reccommend the body lift with 35"+ wheeels...
I have 3" coils and body lift - no dramas all around - also remember to undo the steering shafts links in the engine bay - that always helps - you can centralise the shaft once completed as well as not opening any doors while its up - try to liift a whiole side ata time once EVERY bolt undone.
Saves popping windscreens and sag.
My $0.02 worth....
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
They are linkage and adjustable Lower the rad to keep the cooling 100% removing some of the bottom shroud is the other option, but when things get hard, efficiency of cooling has been reduced.
Andrew
MYTTUF wrote:My 80's not body lifted but I can answer your question about the rear bumper. The centre piece is attached to the chassis and the plastic bits do connect to the body so a solution would be to raise the centre section up the height of the body loft and it would all look ok with the bumperettes attaching back to the body. Anyway wot size tyres do you run?? as I know heaps of 80's that handle 35inch's without a bodylift.
Ive got a 2" body lift in the Wifes 80 so i moved bumper brakets up on the chassis (2") and cut a piece of 100x50x2.5 RHS to fit under the rear alloy step got some longer bolts and bolted the rear step back on through the RHS securing it all back to the chassis. trim the plastic bumper sections to fit the chassis and trim the RH mudflap to clear the exhaust. Half a day and it done the Bullbar is a much job thou.
Sounds like good short term solution. Long term I intend to replace the bar anyway with an aftermarket unit with a wheel caddy from Cheezy. ( when he gets the time that is)
Until then a quick fix is required
I can't believe this is the only solution.
) then bolt up to this thin bit??? 
