Rangie tyre advice

Post by **-Nemesis-** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 9:50 am

Don't shoot me down if this has been done, i'm asking this for a mate.
He just bought a late 80's (i think 88) Range Rover, it still has the original cheese cutter rims with light truck tyres. Anyways it was shocking on Stockon Beach on Monday.
He wants to get some bigger chunkier tyres but doesn't want to raise the suspension etc till his little girls are a bit bigger.
Just wondering how big he can go before running into trouble with guard rubbing etc? He realises he'd probably need smaller diameter rims....
Any advice?

Post by **RaginRover** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:03 am

A set of second hand vogue alloys will dress it up nicely. Or for a cheaper option you can get a set of disco steel rims which look better than the cookie cutters of the dunga spec rangies.

I run 245/75/16 Good Year Wrangler MTRs

You get minimal rubbing - only on the radius arms at full lock - back it off 1/16th of a turn and you get no rubbing.

Tom

Post by **RaginRover** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:05 am

-Nemesis- wrote: He realises he'd probably need smaller diameter rims....
Any advice?

Ummm I wouldn't change rim size - stick with the standard sized rims - a lot easier

the standard tyres on a rangie are 205/70/16s (from memory - it has been a long time since I have had micheys on my rangies)

the wrangers only raise the profile by two inchs or so which can be accommodated pretty easily

Post by **-Nemesis-** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:12 am

Wouldn't stick with the standard? Easier? Did that come out right?
The 245's sound like the go, cheers.

Post by **RaginRover** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 12:30 pm

-Nemesis- wrote:Wouldn't stick with the standard? Easier? Did that come out right?
The 245's sound like the go, cheers.

Sorry ... here is the english translation :lol:

Don't change rim size, stick with vogue alloys or steel discovery rims

Tom

Post by **RANUKI** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 9:15 pm

Ragin - Adjust your steer stops so they don't hit (tyres-radius arms). I have seen radius arms bend because of the wheel hitting under load. RR Radius arms aren't made for side load.

Ok you got me... I did it.

2 minutes work can save a major headache.

Ben

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:06 pm

RANUKI wrote:I have seen radius arms bend because of the wheel hitting under load. RR Radius arms aren't made for side load.

I find this extremely hard to believe - The I-Beam construction makes them very strong (even against side loads). I have seen then polished and shiny from tyres rubbing against them so much and they were perfectly straight.

Post by **RaginRover** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 8:59 am

Chuck's rangie weighs nearly 3 tonne with an isuzu 3.9 Turbo diesel.

Sure they have had the shite polished out of them but they are the same
arms that have done nearly 500,000K on fairly tough terrain including some really hard wheeling (recovering rigs from the back of Strange Rover's place) and has not had a problem,

But changing the steering stops does help preserve the CVs

Tom

Post by **RANUKI** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:07 pm

I didn't bend it due to the wheel just touching it whilst turning only a complete fool would think or believe that. I came down on one front right wheel whilst at full lock (touching arm) and arm bent. No damage to anything else just the arm and my wheels had been rubbing for maybe 5 years on those arms with no problem. I have bent another set but that was a car accident so it doesn't count on my "busted it" list.

ISUZUROVER - Hard to believe, yes I know, I didn't believe it myself however I will show you. Will take a photo for you tonight as I still have arm. It bent where the tube mounts for the maxidrive vacum line to run through.

Raginrover - There must be something in that as a CV is the only thing I haven't broken since adjusting stops (touch wood), So yes it must. Guess this is why I dont understand all the work for the toyota CV conversion.

I didn't say it happens all the time but it CAN happen. Anyways I will post it tonight.

Cheers
Ben

Post by **Aquarangie** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:06 pm

RaginRover wrote:
Sure they have had the shite polished out of them but they are the same
arms that have done nearly 500,000K on fairly tough terrain including some really hard wheeling (recovering rigs from the back of Strange Rover's place) and has not had a problem,

But changing the steering stops does help preserve the CVs

Tom

Mine arn't much better, although the 235/85's you don't have this problem, they just miss out :armsup:

That's probably the only clean part under my Rangie.

Trav

Post by **RaginRover** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:07 pm

RANUKI wrote:Raginrover - There must be something in that as a CV is the only thing I haven't broken since adjusting stops (touch wood), So yes it must. Guess this is why I dont understand all the work for the toyota CV conversion.

Ben

The Haultech boys reckon that the extra length on the stops makes the CVs last a longer/can stop them breaking.

Keeping in mind that these guys have broken Longfields in an unlocked vehicle.

From what I remember the lockless monster breaks short side CVs (it was a longfield) and the long side had a standard 110 LR CV and it didn't break.

I believe they the exteneded the stops and I beleive it hasn't broken much in the way CVs since - I could be wrong though.

Tom

Post by **RANUKI** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:15 pm

Ragin - That is what I did, welded nuts to the head of the bolt to extend them. Simple and quick. I know my day of busted CV's will come and then, in true Rangie fashion,,, Keep on bloody coming.

Here is the arm I was talking about, I use it to pull the diff around when it is together on wheels.

Cheers
Ben

Post by **RANUKI** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:19 pm

Sorry for hijacking your tread -Nemesis-, I'll take my yabba somewhere else.

Back to you -Nemesis-

Cheers
Ben

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