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TD42 REBUILD

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

Posts: 625
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:04 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Woop »

Well with my re-build, i've replaced everything except front gears and injectors. My pump was re-built by BJ DIESEL injection service about 50,000kms ago so left that out also. I will probably replace the injectors sometime after the engines back in and running and i also have a dead glowplug to replace as well.

As far as costs go, i did all mine with genuine Nissan so it will most likely end up being more $$$ than Toms. In hinsight, after measuring up all the bits after they came out, i could probably have got away with just new Main and crankpin bearings and left everything else. When i measured the bores, according to my measurments, they were still within tolerance--pistons were only marginly worn. Piston-bore clearance was still within spec. I decided to go the whole hog because i dont want to have to be going through all this again work again--i figure if i do it now, i wont have to worry about it all again for a long time. BUT.....now i have all the tools to do another re-build, and have seen the long engine life of the TD42 i wont be as worried about buying a GUTD42 with high KM's......

My biggest cost was $1680 for cylinder head work. I had no cracks or warps anywhere in mine like Toms's, the shop replaced all pre-comp chambers and inlet/exhaust valves as well as guides and seals. This plus the machine work pushed up the cost quite a lot as pre-comp chambers are $50each,inlet valves are $45 each and exhaust are $88 each. The machine work done was A1--couldnt fault the shops work, and believe me after that cost, i was really looking hard. After that, the Cylinder liners were $183 each +GST. After requiring 6, the cost adds up.

But as prevoiusly said, it will probably be close to 6K. I'll post complete pics and a price list when its all finished.

Nick
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

Woop wrote:Tom, just curious to know what sort of GASKET GOO your using for the gaskets? Also what thickness head gasket did you end up using?

Nick


Gasket glue - i used a LOCTITE high temp red silicone gasket maker.

Head gasket. i just used the one that came with the rebuild kit - wasnt fussed about them as i wanted my car up and going. it was a grade 3 gasket. I believe you could get thicker which i will probalby do when i upgrade to a turbo.

TOM
Posts: 45681
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:13 am

Post by bogged »

GQ wrote:I believe you could get thicker which i will probalby do when i upgrade to a turbo.

TOM


not better to do it now while your still building it? Saves a lot of hassle later just to change it.???
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

bogged wrote:What sort of $$ are you up to Tom and Nick?


And what did you replace each? maybe a kinda list to show what sort of coin each went through


I put up a few costs in my previous posts..

I'll sum it up as of now...

1400 dollars for engine rebuild kit.
600 dollars for head recondition (mates rates) - proper quote would be same as woops
600 dollars for liner removal and install and block decked
600 dollars for the injector pump overhaul
400 dollars for injectors (brand new)
20 dollars in gasket glues
200 dollars in belts, oil filters, oils and fuel filter

total - 3220 APPROX.

BUT it has gone further than that for me due to the engine being partially disassembled when i got it and missing some parts such as senders, tacho sender ($110 :shock:) and harmonic balancer which i broke.. Another 1000 dollars for me and ill be done.

TOM
Posts: 2176
Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 1:30 am
Location: BrisVegas

Post by Mad Cruiser »

Crikey.....

Thank god i didn't keep it and rebuild it myself ! :D
1998 Toyota Landcruiser 100 series GXL
1976 FJ45 Landcruiser ute
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

bogged wrote:
GQ wrote:I believe you could get thicker which i will probalby do when i upgrade to a turbo.

TOM


not better to do it now while your still building it? Saves a lot of hassle later just to change it.???


You are probalby right there mate.

But seeing that i have gone this far.. im just nearly sick of being without a car and just want it on the road.

Once ive driven it around for a while i can then regret or just do it again with the gasket.

BTW what is the thickest grade u can get?? (mines 3)

TOM
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

Harmonic balancer and idler gear put on as well as oil senders.

Tacho sender - 120 bux from wreckers :shock: Goin to try the wanted section first and if no luck.. ill buy one from wreckers :cry:

Not much longer to go... Now that harmonic balancer is on.. means i can do valve timing tmw :armsup: :armsup:

Image
Posts: 2979
Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 7:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by robbie »

speaking of tacho senders, where are they located on the TD42 & how do I diagnose if that is faulty or the tacho?
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

robbie wrote:speaking of tacho senders, where are they located on the TD42 & how do I diagnose if that is faulty or the tacho?


tacho sender is located right next to water pump... if you look at the most recent pic just above.. look on the righ tof the water pump - theres a hole in there.. that's the location of the tacho sender.

To test it?? not sure.. but least u know where it is to go from there.

TOM
Posts: 2492
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2002 8:57 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by bazzle »

Good work boys.

I dont think I would be worried re head gasket thickness on a TD42 diesel. It not like itll make much diff to ratios or operation.

Bazzle
Posts: 2492
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2002 8:57 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by bazzle »

Dont need to worry re timing for tappets neither, just tun engine so one piston has valves rocking and adj opposite number.
ie, rocking 1 adj 6 , rockinng 2 adj 5 etc.

Bazzle
Posts: 625
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:04 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Woop »

The thickest head gasket is a number 3. Its worked out by determining the amount of piston protrusion. Use a dial guage zero'd on the block then swing it over the piston.

And yes Tom, i'm getting fed up with not having a car as well :cry: Wish the shop would hurry up and finish the block :roll:

Nick
Posts: 45681
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:13 am

Post by bogged »

GQ wrote:You are probalby right there mate.

But seeing that i have gone this far.. im just nearly sick of being without a car and just want it on the road.


I can understand that, specially in wet season! Good luck dude hope all goes well gettin it smokin...
Posts: 2820
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:04 am
Location: Redbank Plains, QLD

Post by Daisy »

bogged wrote:
GQ wrote:You are probalby right there mate.

But seeing that i have gone this far.. im just nearly sick of being without a car and just want it on the road.


I can understand that, specially in wet season! Good luck dude hope all goes well gettin it smokin...


Like woop said.. grade 3s the thickest.. so i guess my absent mindness paid off... THIS TIME... not lettin a stupid thing happen again..

gettin a turbo put on next weekend - managed to source one on forums just recently. So pickin it up and boltin it on.. STAY TUNED!!!!!

:armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:
Posts: 2176
Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 1:30 am
Location: BrisVegas

Post by Mad Cruiser »

Time for an UPDATE me thinks !!! :D

Put up that pic of Tyson trying to remove your gearbox from the pootrol drunk :D
1998 Toyota Landcruiser 100 series GXL
1976 FJ45 Landcruiser ute
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