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80 series 6inch lift

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

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80 series 6inch lift

Post by bruiser »

Anyone done a 6 inch lift on 80 serries GXl
Just wanting to know if there is probelms with front driveshaft angle on all wheel drive.
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Post by dow50r »

With 6 inches, you have alot of problems to overcome...like caster angle cant be brought back to spec without cutting and shutting the front diff, and when thats done, you get front driveshaft vibs, so part timing it or double cardoning the front shaft is the best options...then there is rear diff driveline angles, etc etc etc
best way to get 6 inches is to body lift 2 and put a 4 inch suspension lift in, which only requires a pair of caster plates.
Centre of gravity stays lower aswell, meaning more stability on cross angles off and on road.
Andrew
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lift

Post by MUD80D »

i have 6"lift with 5 deg caster plates on a dx 80 and have no probs
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Post by crankycruiser »

I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...
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Re: lift

Post by dow50r »

MUD80D wrote:i have 6"lift with 5 deg caster plates on a dx 80 and have no probs


MMmmmmm define no problems Reece... :lol:
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Post by dow50r »

crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...


Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew
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Post by dumbdunce »

I also have 5" lift (measured 7" lift) with 5.5 degree castor plates on a DX with no problems, can leave the hubs locked at speed and there is no bad noises from the front shaft. steering could be slightly better but increasing the castor any more would put the tierod into the leading arms, it already hits on articulation. rear driveshaft angles are fine.
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Post by dow50r »

To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.
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Post by dumbdunce »

dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.


I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.

does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!
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Post by dow50r »

dumbdunce wrote:
dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.


I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.

does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!



Gday Brian
Your diff will be 5mm further forward with this mod. The top arms are 3/4 pipe, so putting a bolt shank inside and welding back together is what i have done (after taking 10mm out of them)
Another novel idea is to use a pair of caster correction bushes on the front arms instead of the rubber one that holds the arm to the body....this spaces the front axle 14mm further forward away from the once mudflaps... :cool: ... This is a little more involved with the bore of the hole needing to be brought out a mm or so for the bush od to fit...
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Post by stumped »

ferog got around a 6" lift put in the other week, castor correction, panhard, and i assume extended lines. no issues with vibes or anything like that....
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Post by crankycruiser »

sorry stuffed up look at next post
Last edited by crankycruiser on Thu Aug 26, 2004 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by crankycruiser »

dow50r wrote:
crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...


Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew


Well andrew the slip joint end out of the 80 shaft fits the hilux one so that fix's that end...
on the gear box end u need to grind out around 5mm near the holes so that they can be moved in to match the 80 pattern

I got a machine shop to do this work 4 me..
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Post by dow50r »

Too easy
From memory there is not a great deal of room on the d/c for moving the studs... nothing a miller wont fix though... :twisted:
Andrew
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Post by dumbdunce »

dow50r wrote:Too easy
From memory there is not a great deal of room on the d/c for moving the studs... nothing a miller wont fix though... :twisted:
Andrew


remind me why you can't just re-drill the transfer flange?
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Post by crankycruiser »

u cant redrill the flange because it is too small u would have to weld the holes up and put a ring round the outside of it to make it bigger..
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Post by dumbdunce »

crankycruiser wrote:u cant redrill the flange because it is too small u would have to weld the holes up and put a ring round the outside of it to make it bigger..


doh... that sucks :cry:
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Post by crankycruiser »

sure does but them the breaks.....
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Post by ferog »

i had extended lines ect no probs with vibes at this stage lift measured at 6" in the back 7" in the front will settle to 5" eventually
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