Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
10K project???
10K project???
currently i have a hilux worth around $10,000, over the last few weeks i have been toying with the idea of selling the hilux and buying a zook to mod.
my aims for the car would be to use it as a capable weekender and lite comp work (eg. navrun or pajero challenge), yet still be able to use it to commute to and from uni next year.
my budget would be around 10K to start with, i would LIKE to end up with:
-88+ 1.3 SWB (this is when widetrack came in rite??) $3000-$4000
-my 33" tyres (either my current BFG's or 2nd hand swampers) -
-welded rear -
-SPOA with flatish springs and prob rancho shocks: $2000apx???
-rockhopper gearset (i would need one with 33" tyres wouldnt i??) -$1500fitted??
-i would like to have a front locker, but as mentioned in other posts, this may result in too many breakages. what mods can be done to strengthen zook axles/cv's etc??? $1000 for lockrite fitted?? + extra other mods.
that comes to around $8500 only leaving $1500 for misc.
am i dreaming or could this be done for 10K??? keeping in mind i would need to pay to have lockers/gearset fitted but suspension work would be done with help of freind who has done spoa before.
if i am being too ambitious, what would be an acheivable plan??
i hope all you zook nuts can be of assistance thanks
my aims for the car would be to use it as a capable weekender and lite comp work (eg. navrun or pajero challenge), yet still be able to use it to commute to and from uni next year.
my budget would be around 10K to start with, i would LIKE to end up with:
-88+ 1.3 SWB (this is when widetrack came in rite??) $3000-$4000
-my 33" tyres (either my current BFG's or 2nd hand swampers) -
-welded rear -
-SPOA with flatish springs and prob rancho shocks: $2000apx???
-rockhopper gearset (i would need one with 33" tyres wouldnt i??) -$1500fitted??
-i would like to have a front locker, but as mentioned in other posts, this may result in too many breakages. what mods can be done to strengthen zook axles/cv's etc??? $1000 for lockrite fitted?? + extra other mods.
that comes to around $8500 only leaving $1500 for misc.
am i dreaming or could this be done for 10K??? keeping in mind i would need to pay to have lockers/gearset fitted but suspension work would be done with help of freind who has done spoa before.
if i am being too ambitious, what would be an acheivable plan??
i hope all you zook nuts can be of assistance thanks
Blair,
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
rockhopper's good for the 33's providing you get the series 3 RH (6.1:1)
if you get the series 1 (4.1:1) you'd also need a bigger motor!!! the 6.1:1 will most likely cost $1500 for the gears alone - not fitted.
i'd stick different axels under the thing. Hilux or bundera, get away from the 5 stud rim patten.
if you get the series 1 (4.1:1) you'd also need a bigger motor!!! the 6.1:1 will most likely cost $1500 for the gears alone - not fitted.
i'd stick different axels under the thing. Hilux or bundera, get away from the 5 stud rim patten.
i don't need no stinking quote for my sig. line!
you'd just stick hilux axles in while doing your SOA
and you'd probably be able to offload your old w/t diffs
i don't think it'd be that expensive
alternatively, use a vitara rear end and a beefed up w/t front end but hilux diffs would still be cheaper and you could run much bigger than 33s once you get some longs
but anyway, i think you should keep your lux and build it up.
and you'd probably be able to offload your old w/t diffs
i don't think it'd be that expensive
alternatively, use a vitara rear end and a beefed up w/t front end but hilux diffs would still be cheaper and you could run much bigger than 33s once you get some longs
but anyway, i think you should keep your lux and build it up.
her's what I was talking about
LWB Zuk (You can get a rough one in the Weekly Times for around $500)
2.0l V6 with auto and case $3000
rockhopper $1000
wide track front $300
Vitara rear $300
weld rear $0
lock rite front $500
37 MTRs $1600
self tap screws to do a drag racing "beadlock" $20
30m of DOM tube to cage and clip it $600
a decent seat $350
total just over $8000
Yeah even with a front locker we have a guy in the club Greg (here's on here too) who has a front arb and is also running the 34 Swampers and no breakage.
the hilux axles are finr but you lose the ground clearance so would have to go to about 36-37" to get the same clearance as a 33-34 on a Zuk plus you would have to get them narrowed to be somewhat legal then you'd have to get longfields to run the 36-37" tyre
Stick with the Zuks
LWB Zuk (You can get a rough one in the Weekly Times for around $500)
2.0l V6 with auto and case $3000
rockhopper $1000
wide track front $300
Vitara rear $300
weld rear $0
lock rite front $500
37 MTRs $1600
self tap screws to do a drag racing "beadlock" $20
30m of DOM tube to cage and clip it $600
a decent seat $350
total just over $8000
Yeah even with a front locker we have a guy in the club Greg (here's on here too) who has a front arb and is also running the 34 Swampers and no breakage.
the hilux axles are finr but you lose the ground clearance so would have to go to about 36-37" to get the same clearance as a 33-34 on a Zuk plus you would have to get them narrowed to be somewhat legal then you'd have to get longfields to run the 36-37" tyre
Stick with the Zuks
Ransom note = demand + collage
Hey Blair,
My advice would be to have a think about what you want to do with it before you buy it... i'm now at a point where i wish i had've bought something a little different as my requirements from the car have changed.
eg.
I bought a nice condition hard top wide track and have done it up nicely and it works perfectly for everything that i want to do, except that now i wish i had bought a soft top in much rougher condition because i would've saved some cash along the way and now i would have a car with one heck of a roll bar that i wouldn't mind putting on its side or roof every once in a while.
Plus there's the hill climbing car that needs the longer wheel base etc but lets not get started on that debate.
Just a note regarding the front locker:
I have an arb front but i do try to drive it fairly sensibly because of what i do hear about the front birfields breaking. However, i have checked this out with the wreckers and can tell you that a new front axel (either side) is 110 bucks with a birfield attached.
And Joey in the club has broken a front birfield running 30" tires and a welded front diff - note: he was also running a 2L motor in it at the time.
hope that wasn't too confusing.
cheers,
Greg
My advice would be to have a think about what you want to do with it before you buy it... i'm now at a point where i wish i had've bought something a little different as my requirements from the car have changed.
eg.
I bought a nice condition hard top wide track and have done it up nicely and it works perfectly for everything that i want to do, except that now i wish i had bought a soft top in much rougher condition because i would've saved some cash along the way and now i would have a car with one heck of a roll bar that i wouldn't mind putting on its side or roof every once in a while.
Plus there's the hill climbing car that needs the longer wheel base etc but lets not get started on that debate.
Just a note regarding the front locker:
I have an arb front but i do try to drive it fairly sensibly because of what i do hear about the front birfields breaking. However, i have checked this out with the wreckers and can tell you that a new front axel (either side) is 110 bucks with a birfield attached.
And Joey in the club has broken a front birfield running 30" tires and a welded front diff - note: he was also running a 2L motor in it at the time.
hope that wasn't too confusing.
cheers,
Greg
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests