Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
80 series 6inch lift
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series 6inch lift
Anyone done a 6 inch lift on 80 serries GXl
Just wanting to know if there is probelms with front driveshaft angle on all wheel drive.
Just wanting to know if there is probelms with front driveshaft angle on all wheel drive.
With 6 inches, you have alot of problems to overcome...like caster angle cant be brought back to spec without cutting and shutting the front diff, and when thats done, you get front driveshaft vibs, so part timing it or double cardoning the front shaft is the best options...then there is rear diff driveline angles, etc etc etc
best way to get 6 inches is to body lift 2 and put a 4 inch suspension lift in, which only requires a pair of caster plates.
Centre of gravity stays lower aswell, meaning more stability on cross angles off and on road.
Andrew
best way to get 6 inches is to body lift 2 and put a 4 inch suspension lift in, which only requires a pair of caster plates.
Centre of gravity stays lower aswell, meaning more stability on cross angles off and on road.
Andrew
crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...
Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew
I also have 5" lift (measured 7" lift) with 5.5 degree castor plates on a DX with no problems, can leave the hubs locked at speed and there is no bad noises from the front shaft. steering could be slightly better but increasing the castor any more would put the tierod into the leading arms, it already hits on articulation. rear driveshaft angles are fine.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.
dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.
I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.
does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
dumbdunce wrote:dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.
I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.
does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!
Gday Brian
Your diff will be 5mm further forward with this mod. The top arms are 3/4 pipe, so putting a bolt shank inside and welding back together is what i have done (after taking 10mm out of them)
Another novel idea is to use a pair of caster correction bushes on the front arms instead of the rubber one that holds the arm to the body....this spaces the front axle 14mm further forward away from the once mudflaps... ... This is a little more involved with the bore of the hole needing to be brought out a mm or so for the bush od to fit...
Andrew
sorry stuffed up look at next post
Last edited by crankycruiser on Thu Aug 26, 2004 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
dow50r wrote:crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...
Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew
Well andrew the slip joint end out of the 80 shaft fits the hilux one so that fix's that end...
on the gear box end u need to grind out around 5mm near the holes so that they can be moved in to match the 80 pattern
I got a machine shop to do this work 4 me..
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests