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Well I made this post in my build up thread but didn't get any comments. So either that thread is lamo and not worth reading, or nobody acturally knows tech and finally nobody gives a crap about my POS.
Anyway have a read....
Well worked on the zook the other day. I have put the two helpers back in the rear so now it is a stock OME medium spring. The rear is now working great, getting heaps more power to the ground. the front on the other hand is still pretty loose, but I can most probably deal with that.
Now for another problem. I have installed the front shoks vertical to the diff, not realising how far the front diff will move back. So the front shocks now have a bit of denting. oops. I still have to move the hangers back though, so this might help with the direction of movement. (bigsteve can you measure how far farward yours are?)
Just a question, how does the diff move backwards in a reverse shackle setup. Why I ask is because the front drive shaft is designed to extend forward on the slip yoke but not backwards. I'm thinking if I add a spacer then the diff shouldn't be able to go backwards as at tgis tage I have over an inch constantly extended. Any idea's?
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
vitarajim wrote:big steve isn't running shackle reversal is he?
Nope but what I am trying to figure out is if I can reduce the amout the diff moves back. I want it to pust forwards into the opstical so i can gain more traction.
It seems as though I haven't asked the rigt questions and also the only way I will know is if I just play with it.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
I think what you are saying is that when the suspension tucks/droops and the diff moves forward & backward the shock is making contact with something??? What is it contacting with?
I think we need a pic from the side looking into your wheel arch with the tyre off.
ALSO
It seems that given the issues you had with the front wanting to invert (did you actually invert a shackle/s??) you want to try a fixed mount at the front (SR) to combat this.
Am I on track, its Tuesday and it still feels like Monday?
What I want to active is the diff stays approx the same position on droop and the compressed side moves foward.
Look just ignore this thread and I'll just test a few things then come back with a write up.
the diff will normally go towards the the shackle on compression and away at droop
so a SR will head back on compression normally. causes rubbage at the fire wall thats why most SR's move the diff a fair way forward. it will also droop forward
a standard shackle arrange ment willl do the opposite
but not all work like this
my zuk the springs are flat so the diff moves rear ward under compression and droop
Alright now that the phones have slowed down I'll try explain what i'm after again.
First of all I have looked at SR and I don't think it would suit my needs so i'm not going that way.
What I want to know is that when a drive shaft is closed on the slip yoke does that mean it will not allow both ends of the diff to move rearwards when approaching something with both wheels?
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
DeWsE wrote:Alright now that the phones have slowed down I'll try explain what i'm after again.
First of all I have looked at SR and I don't think it would suit my needs so i'm not going that way.
What I want to know is that when a drive shaft is closed on the slip yoke does that mean it will not allow both ends of the diff to move rearwards when approaching something with both wheels?
WTF
ur drive shaft should be able to move forwards and backwards
if i read that right u r tryin to use your drive shaft to stop the front diff movin back?
id say it would punch straight into your tcase or bust ya mounts on the tcase
DeWsE wrote:Alright now that the phones have slowed down I'll try explain what i'm after again.
First of all I have looked at SR and I don't think it would suit my needs so i'm not going that way.
What I want to know is that when a drive shaft is closed on the slip yoke does that mean it will not allow both ends of the diff to move rearwards when approaching something with both wheels?
WTF
ur drive shaft should be able to move forwards and backwards
if i read that right u r tryin to use your drive shaft to stop the front diff movin back?
id say it would punch straight into your tcase or bust ya mounts on the tcase
Thanks redzook I understand it now! Your right that wouldn't really help would it
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Luigi Malone wrote:Thanks Dewse. Sam and Tim, was it worth it? Do you still run it, and if not why not.? TIA. LM
Sam ran it on his first two rigs now he has coils. Tim was gonna set it up on his new rig.....so I think they like it. Main reason being is that it improves approach angle. They were both S/O and had put the spring perches in a location so that they didn't require a drop down spring hanger at the front. (like the calmini one). Redzook suggested to me that I could use shims on the spring perch to achieve the right pinion angle.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Luigi Malone wrote:Thanks Dewse. Sam and Tim, was it worth it? Do you still run it, and if not why not.? TIA. LM
Sam ran it on his first two rigs now he has coils. Tim was gonna set it up on his new rig.....so I think they like it. Main reason being is that it improves approach angle. They were both S/O and had put the spring perches in a location so that they didn't require a drop down spring hanger at the front. (like the calmini one). Redzook suggested to me that I could use shims on the spring perch to achieve the right pinion angle.
have you looked at the calmini fitted ?.It moves the diff forward, with 33s the approach is better than you think + no inverted springs.
I just measured it, stock 130 mm from chassis to the bottom of the spring,calmini 155mm from chassis to the bottom of the spring.don't believe what is written by someone selling other parts.if you look at the other buildups with s'r you'll notice the box section welded to the chassis then the spring eye mount welded to the bottom of that.
Your welcome to have a look i have 3 zuks in the build at the moment all with different setups so im not biased just because i have a zuk with the calmini s/r .Come for a run to mundaring next weekend you can't do much more damage
1MadEngineer wrote:So who here has actually done a shackle reversal?
Me me me
I had a shackle reversal on my first Zook and it was awsum made climbing ledges easier gave me a better approach angle I could ram the mounts into the rocks without the risk of bending the shackles.
On road it drove better. The caster has to be reset when doing a SR I think this is why they get such a bagging for road use cause people do the reversal without doing the caster and then they do drive badly.
SAM
Luigi Malone wrote:Thanks Dewse. Sam and Tim, was it worth it? Do you still run it, and if not why not.? TIA. LM
Yes I run coils now only because we wanted to make a kit. Yes the coils are a smoother ride and has more travel than most leaf setups and is easier to stretch the wheelbase slightly.
If I was to have another leafy I would definately do a shackle reversal.
SAM
[quote="Yes I run coils now only because we wanted to make a kit. Yes the coils are a smoother ride and has more travel than most leaf setups and is easier to stretch the wheelbase slightly.
If I was to have another leafy I would definately do a shackle reversal.
SAM[/quote]
Sam, can you either explain to this pleb the best way to SR, or point me to where I can glean the info from one as learned as yourself?
A thousand camels to you effendi.
LM.
It's better to have LIVED for a day than to have EXISTED for a hundred years.
