ok anyone thats been following my build up knows that ive just taken it for a roadworthy now i need some info
are the rear drums supposed to be loosened off so they can be removed or should i just be able to remove them without ajusting the brakes??
will the standard steering colum be fine with a 1.5" body lift my steering colum has been hacked and modified so im not sure if its been relocated but ive gotta replace it for the rwc
front swivel hubs are leaking from the rear i got nfi what these comprise of but i can get a new felt kit is that all i should need to stop it leaking or is there more too it
the rest of my problems seem to be easy repairs so ioll leave it at that for now
cheers
pcman
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
fj40 cruiser help
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
drums on my bj have a spring and arm in place to stop unadjusting and is fiddly to disengage..i use a screw driver to lever off in emergency or use a ratched to wind 2xhigh tensile steel bolts into the tapped holes in drum. yes my brake srouds look nasty.
steering shaft not sure, what do you mean by hacked
i can help with swivel hub seals
kit is a good start - do you want to completely rebuild or just replace the seals ... i will try find a sweet pdf i found last week... stay tuned
if want to do yourself and would like help pm me
S18
steering shaft not sure, what do you mean by hacked
i can help with swivel hub seals
kit is a good start - do you want to completely rebuild or just replace the seals ... i will try find a sweet pdf i found last week... stay tuned
if want to do yourself and would like help pm me
S18
www.3rdrock4x4.com
you should be able to remove the drums without having to ease of the wheel cylinders.
they can be very farkn tight if they have not been off in a long while.
i have replaced all my brake drums and half the wheel cylinders.. i can give you a hand if you like...
scotto.. im also looking at swivel hub rebuild,, post the link to the pdf when you find it..
maybe you should not have degreased your driveway/garage
they can be very farkn tight if they have not been off in a long while.
i have replaced all my brake drums and half the wheel cylinders.. i can give you a hand if you like...
scotto.. im also looking at swivel hub rebuild,, post the link to the pdf when you find it..
maybe you should not have degreased your driveway/garage
now in Perth
you will have lips on your drums and will need to back off the adjustment.
possible cause is driving mud heaps! wears into drums.
if steering has been cut and welded should be replaced.
leaking sweivel hubs should be the small axle seal leaking and over filling
the hub with diff oil
.[quote][/quote]
possible cause is driving mud heaps! wears into drums.
if steering has been cut and welded should be replaced.
leaking sweivel hubs should be the small axle seal leaking and over filling
the hub with diff oil
.[quote][/quote]
cheers guys thanks for the help
the steering colum where it mounts to the firewall has had the standard bracket cut off it and a 6mm plate welded to it for some farken reason i spottted it but had nfi why its been done im pretty sure ill be able to get a standard steering colum from the wreckers near me they had 2 40's that they where wrecking last time i was there
i was looking at offroadshop.com.au and spotted
REPAIR KIT, STEERING KNUCKLE TOYOTA LANDCRUISER FJ40 Price: $168.93
http://parts.offroadshop.com.au/images/ ... es/SH3.jpg
im sure my local parts place can get the same in and im guessing that will do what i need it to and more they also had a few seal kits but i figure while its apart might as well do it properly
looks like im up for new drums on the rear then ill have too see how big the lip is and see if i can get them machined first anyone got a good 2ndhand set
cheers
pcman
the steering colum where it mounts to the firewall has had the standard bracket cut off it and a 6mm plate welded to it for some farken reason i spottted it but had nfi why its been done im pretty sure ill be able to get a standard steering colum from the wreckers near me they had 2 40's that they where wrecking last time i was there
i was looking at offroadshop.com.au and spotted
REPAIR KIT, STEERING KNUCKLE TOYOTA LANDCRUISER FJ40 Price: $168.93
http://parts.offroadshop.com.au/images/ ... es/SH3.jpg
im sure my local parts place can get the same in and im guessing that will do what i need it to and more they also had a few seal kits but i figure while its apart might as well do it properly
looks like im up for new drums on the rear then ill have too see how big the lip is and see if i can get them machined first anyone got a good 2ndhand set
cheers
pcman
try here for prices for a whole shitload of parts.. i found it the other day..
http://pricebook.donkyatt.com.au/
$102.38
for the SH3
http://pricebook.donkyatt.com.au/
$102.38
for the SH3
now in Perth
well ive ordered a sh2 hub rebuild kit for the 1975-79 fj40 so hope that is what mine is cause its a 75 with disk brake cheaper than elsewhere at $100 even also ordered brake shoes get these this afternoon
priced new drums at $130 each so ill go find some 2nd hand ones
im sure it will be ready for the 40 weekend
priced new drums at $130 each so ill go find some 2nd hand ones
im sure it will be ready for the 40 weekend
the_smoo wrote:try here for prices for a whole shitload of parts.. i found it the other day..
http://pricebook.donkyatt.com.au/
$102.38
for the SH3
That will definately be saved into the favourites
pcman wrote:the steering colum where it mounts to the firewall has had the standard bracket cut off it and a 6mm plate welded to it for some farken reason i spottted it but had nfi why its been done
when the body is lifted the column bracket at the dashboard, the fire wall and the steering box go out of alignment. You can get around this by packing up the steering box and fitting the bracket from a FJ55 to the dashboard.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
2car thanks for that im tempted to just remove the body lift if its gonna be a pain in the arse it will still be high enough toi clear the current tyres and prolly larger i beleive
smoo im not actually sure if im gonna rebuild them now ive spent the last hour degreasing and pressure washing the built up greas n crud off the hubs and taken it for a short drive in high4 with the hubs locked and there not leaking at all im gonna get a cov er note and go for a drive to a mates place tomorrow and see iof there leaking if its only a slight leak im gonna degrease it before i take it back to the rwc joint and hope they pass it i dont see the point in spending 100bux if its only a slow oil leak
i also degreased the front diff center it was just covered in built up grease n crud that i hadnt noticed but i know that it hasnt been dropping oil from the pinion so thats weird it was prolly fixed by the last owner but they didnt clean it
still in need for steering colum and rear drums might have to ring hall 4x4
o and the front guards where they attatch to the body/tub are they supposed to be bolted they claimed that they should be cause if you lean on them they move away from the body i just thought that was how they where
and will brake drums of any other landcruiser suit the fj40
smoo im not actually sure if im gonna rebuild them now ive spent the last hour degreasing and pressure washing the built up greas n crud off the hubs and taken it for a short drive in high4 with the hubs locked and there not leaking at all im gonna get a cov er note and go for a drive to a mates place tomorrow and see iof there leaking if its only a slight leak im gonna degrease it before i take it back to the rwc joint and hope they pass it i dont see the point in spending 100bux if its only a slow oil leak
i also degreased the front diff center it was just covered in built up grease n crud that i hadnt noticed but i know that it hasnt been dropping oil from the pinion so thats weird it was prolly fixed by the last owner but they didnt clean it
still in need for steering colum and rear drums might have to ring hall 4x4
o and the front guards where they attatch to the body/tub are they supposed to be bolted they claimed that they should be cause if you lean on them they move away from the body i just thought that was how they where
and will brake drums of any other landcruiser suit the fj40
You will need 1970 to 1979 FJ40, 45 or 55 front or rear drums. Drain all of the oil out of the front axle and don't use 4wd. That should slow the leaking down long enough to get your rego slip - just don't forget to re-fill it afterwards.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
Here is a start -
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php
this has pics -
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/index.html
I am waiting to hear from someone about getting some work done myself and depending on that I may be free-ish Sunday and am sure you are keen to do this for THE 40 REUNION so if you want a hand SING OUT LOUD or PM ME your details. No promises as this stage - but if you can work in a garage at night then ok too. The mrs is away this weekend so will be cruiser cruiser cruiser for me
mkay
scott
ps the hub retaining nuts are 54mm - i just made a socket that fits and am real keen to try it out
no more mallet and screwdriver
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php
this has pics -
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/index.html
I am waiting to hear from someone about getting some work done myself and depending on that I may be free-ish Sunday and am sure you are keen to do this for THE 40 REUNION
so if you want a hand SING OUT LOUD or PM ME your details. No promises as this stage - but if you can work in a garage at night then ok too. The mrs is away this weekend so will be cruiser cruiser cruiser for me
mkay
scott
ps the hub retaining nuts are 54mm - i just made a socket that fits and am real keen to try it out
no more mallet and screwdriver
www.3rdrock4x4.com
great links the one with pictures is awesome but now im scared what ive got ahead im sure i can stuff something up bigtime there lol looks very complicated ill send you a pm with some details you seem to know what your doing scotto so some knowledge would be good considering im on a tight budget and time is also tight
yeah but no point in pulling it all apart and only replacing 1 part like my parts store only ordering me 1 axle seal for the rear when you have to pull the diff center apart to get them out like im not gonna replace 2 4$ seals at the same time grrrr held me up another day cause they had to order another in
brakes
i have just refurbished the drums all round on my FJ40 - 1973, including the handbrake. you will need to get the drums machined to suit the new shoes, including the handbrake set up if you have the older set up like me with it on the transfer case and not the rear axle.
i used a local supplier that totally cocked it up first time, machining out the drums and supplying the smaller shoes. there was no way the brakes would set up properly, with the pedal hitting the floor every time, the same as if they had not been machined. if you are getting second hand drums.. get the machiners to supply the shoes so they can provide oversize if needed. they will prolly do an exchange service.
i cant recomend the machining strongly enough, its only about 12 bux a corner.. and hopefully this will save you the amount of freaking about i had to go thru.
HTH
Rob
i used a local supplier that totally cocked it up first time, machining out the drums and supplying the smaller shoes. there was no way the brakes would set up properly, with the pedal hitting the floor every time, the same as if they had not been machined. if you are getting second hand drums.. get the machiners to supply the shoes so they can provide oversize if needed. they will prolly do an exchange service.
i cant recomend the machining strongly enough, its only about 12 bux a corner.. and hopefully this will save you the amount of freaking about i had to go thru.
HTH
Rob
ohhhhh shite... it really didnt look that deep!
Im here for the sausage!
t
Hey, whilst on the drums.
I got Disk front, they ROCK! cant speak highly enough.
but my drums are crud!-rear
got a mate to help me do some work, he replaced everything (pads-shoes and the previously leaky cylinders in there) but couldnt get new/replaceable drums. the actual drums are a bit clapped out and the brakes had to be wound right out to touch them.
what do you recommend there? new drums??
what can i do to make it hold better on big hills??
and my handbrake is capoot! it leaks and doesnt work at all, whats a new or decent 2nd hand set up worth? and can the transfer mounted ones be beefed up? i hear nothing but bad reports.
cheers
I got Disk front, they ROCK! cant speak highly enough.
but my drums are crud!-rear
got a mate to help me do some work, he replaced everything (pads-shoes and the previously leaky cylinders in there) but couldnt get new/replaceable drums. the actual drums are a bit clapped out and the brakes had to be wound right out to touch them.
what do you recommend there? new drums??
what can i do to make it hold better on big hills??
and my handbrake is capoot! it leaks and doesnt work at all, whats a new or decent 2nd hand set up worth? and can the transfer mounted ones be beefed up? i hear nothing but bad reports.
cheers
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
Re: t
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
but my drums are crud!-rear
got a mate to help me do some work, he replaced everything (pads-shoes and the previously leaky cylinders in there) but couldnt get new/replaceable drums. the actual drums are a bit clapped out and the brakes had to be wound right out to touch them.
what do you recommend there? new drums??
what can i do to make it hold better on big hills??
and my handbrake is capoot! it leaks and doesnt work at all, whats a new or decent 2nd hand set up worth? and can the transfer mounted ones be beefed up? i hear nothing but bad reports.
cheers
hey DRS..
machine the drums and fit over size shoes. mine are awsome, been out today in the mud and wet.. worked great. i was going the disk front but baby forced a re think. am really pelased with drums now. do teh same for hand brake if on transfer too. used it on hills today, didnt budge an inch. without the OS shoes my pedal ALWAYS hit the floor.. and i had to pump 2 -3 times before anything happened. 5 mins after fitting os shoes to matched machined drums they were sweet.
is your handbrake handle on the floor or the dash?.. i converted mine to floor mount.
cheep as chips to machine drums, but the OS shoes are more exy than standards.
HTH
Rob
ohhhhh shite... it really didnt look that deep!
brakes
hi Scotto,
the guys that do the machining will be able to get the OS shoes. take your old ones in as they will/should do an exchange for a few bux off. they are about 8mm all up bigger on the DIA (ie both shoes) my drums where farked, but machineable.. they will let you know if they are beyond machining.. they are pretty cheap from breakers.. (read wreckers)
HTH
the guys that do the machining will be able to get the OS shoes. take your old ones in as they will/should do an exchange for a few bux off. they are about 8mm all up bigger on the DIA (ie both shoes) my drums where farked, but machineable.. they will let you know if they are beyond machining.. they are pretty cheap from breakers.. (read wreckers)
HTH
ohhhhh shite... it really didnt look that deep!
Im here for the sausage!
t
Rob,
cheers for that mate.
Yeah my handbrake is dash mounted. does nothing and the bastard leaks fluid. so its not the best. it makes driving steep stuff an issue.
the 2F naturally stalls then its issues to start it without rolling back im sure ya know what i am saying.
Hmmm, i might have to look into machining the drums then.
got a mate who works at a 4x4 spares and wreckers who is on the lookout for some nice new meaty drums but he said they arent too easy to come by for low $.
cheers. so the handbrake is the same go, bigger shoes hey??
cheers for that mate.
Yeah my handbrake is dash mounted. does nothing and the bastard leaks fluid. so its not the best. it makes driving steep stuff an issue.
the 2F naturally stalls then its issues to start it without rolling back im sure ya know what i am saying.
Hmmm, i might have to look into machining the drums then.
got a mate who works at a 4x4 spares and wreckers who is on the lookout for some nice new meaty drums but he said they arent too easy to come by for low $.
cheers. so the handbrake is the same go, bigger shoes hey??
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
brakes
DRS..
i also had that useless set up of dash mounted handbrake. i got a floor mounted handle for 15 bux from the wreckers and mounted it up onto the seat frame. took me about an hour to make up the frame and i modified the stock cable to suit. I have posted this info in this thread
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=mechman
i have detail drawings of the frame and details of the cable mods if you'd like that i can email to you.
you say the handbrake leaks fluid?.. mine is just cable operated.. and works really well on hills.
imagine this.. when i got it there was no booster fitted!!!!... hills where a no no unless i knew i was going up without stopping..lol
i have a 253 and as yet havent had any issues with stalling.. but tis early days for me yet.. only on/off the road a month...lol
umm, just realised.. no pics... let me know your addy and i can email some pics of the set up if interested.
Rob
i also had that useless set up of dash mounted handbrake. i got a floor mounted handle for 15 bux from the wreckers and mounted it up onto the seat frame. took me about an hour to make up the frame and i modified the stock cable to suit. I have posted this info in this thread
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=mechman
i have detail drawings of the frame and details of the cable mods if you'd like that i can email to you.
you say the handbrake leaks fluid?.. mine is just cable operated.. and works really well on hills.
imagine this.. when i got it there was no booster fitted!!!!... hills where a no no unless i knew i was going up without stopping..lol
i have a 253 and as yet havent had any issues with stalling.. but tis early days for me yet.. only on/off the road a month...lol
umm, just realised.. no pics... let me know your addy and i can email some pics of the set up if interested.
Rob
ohhhhh shite... it really didnt look that deep!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 52 guests