hey all, i am making some sliders for my 110 ute and want advice on attaching them. i have come up with the rear end to outrigger connection. the front is giving me a little trouble. in the mags i have read they (southdown, U.K.) had a tab welded that picked up the end of the front outrigger/bulkhead bolt. even though this is grade 10.9, the bolt is about 150mm long and its the end(nut) that it picks up, rear of the bulkhead. any ideas for either end would be much appreciated. the main body of the slider is 75 x50 x6 mm.
cheers, serg
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fitting sliders to d110
Moderator: Micka
The bolt is not your problem. You need to make very strong connections
to both the middle and the rear chassis outriggers, though. It is not enough to just bolt to the endplates of the outriggers. Get some "L" profile and let it overlap the middle outrigger by 200-300 mm and bolt
a "U" inside the rear outrigger to reinforce it. Strong enough to hi-lift a heavy 110.
to both the middle and the rear chassis outriggers, though. It is not enough to just bolt to the endplates of the outriggers. Get some "L" profile and let it overlap the middle outrigger by 200-300 mm and bolt
a "U" inside the rear outrigger to reinforce it. Strong enough to hi-lift a heavy 110.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
wilsby wrote:The bolt is not your problem. You need to make very strong connections
to both the middle and the rear chassis outriggers, though. It is not enough to just bolt to the endplates of the outriggers. Get some "L" profile and let it overlap the middle outrigger by 200-300 mm and bolt
a "U" inside the rear outrigger to reinforce it. Strong enough to hi-lift a heavy 110.
my D110 tray back only has two (2) outriggers, the front at the bulkhead and the rear about 100mm behind the door (only one door each side). now instead of attaching to the end of the outrigger/bulkhead bolt i noticed that it has washers spacing in the middle between the outrigger and bulkhead, about 8mm, just enough room to remove the washers and slide in some 8mm plate and attach to the slider. what happens if you remove the bolt? does the bulkhead want to drop? wilsby do you have any pics for what you are discribing?
cheers, serg
No pics, and it's dark, cold and raining outside.
Again, the bolt is fine. Worry about the other end. Apparantly you have different outriggers, but the principle is the same. Make a very sturdy mount on the slider that spreads the load over the outrigger. This is the only thing that will take the torque when you lift under the slider. The slider will want rotate around the front bolt, which takes no torque but a lot of weight.
Again, the bolt is fine. Worry about the other end. Apparantly you have different outriggers, but the principle is the same. Make a very sturdy mount on the slider that spreads the load over the outrigger. This is the only thing that will take the torque when you lift under the slider. The slider will want rotate around the front bolt, which takes no torque but a lot of weight.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
I have seen 110 sliders fitted using the bulkhead/firewall bolt many times with no problems. The remaining rear mounts had 10mm flatbar/angle that bolted flush with the front or rear face of each outrigger further back.
On my IIA I did something different though. Since I wasn't afraid of welding to the chassis (and wanted extremely strong sliders) I welded 3, 10mm thick plates to the outer underside of the three outriggers either side - each plate was tapped with 3, m10 threads. The plates serve to spread the loads on the outriggers, and the slider is mounted using grade 4.6M10 bolts so the bolts will fail before the chassis is damaged. So far I have had no problems, and the 4mm wall sliders have protected the body many times (and have the scars to show for it), but held up perfectly.
On my IIA I did something different though. Since I wasn't afraid of welding to the chassis (and wanted extremely strong sliders) I welded 3, 10mm thick plates to the outer underside of the three outriggers either side - each plate was tapped with 3, m10 threads. The plates serve to spread the loads on the outriggers, and the slider is mounted using grade 4.6M10 bolts so the bolts will fail before the chassis is damaged. So far I have had no problems, and the 4mm wall sliders have protected the body many times (and have the scars to show for it), but held up perfectly.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
serg, i bought landymans sliders and put them on my 110 ute.
you don't have that other crossmember because thats only needed for station wagon bodies.
i ended up modifying the sliders for more strength as well as shortening them
i've jacked of them since and there was no flex
the sill is box tube with angle welded on for chassis mounts.
i used the bulkhead bolt for the front mount and was scepticat about flex.
so the box is a tight fit against the end of the outrigger to reduce flex/twist.
the rear mount is welded on angle(to the box tube) and bolted to the back of the rear outrigger in factory holes.
this way the front outrigger bolt and washer is removed and the slider slid up and on the bulkhead bolt, then the rear angle/mount just bolts through the outrigger.
i can take pics and possibly e-mail if you like.
shit, these sliders will be given away shortly, because i've bought the rear panels from a county to turn my ute into a s/w.
david
you don't have that other crossmember because thats only needed for station wagon bodies.
i ended up modifying the sliders for more strength as well as shortening them
i've jacked of them since and there was no flex
the sill is box tube with angle welded on for chassis mounts.
i used the bulkhead bolt for the front mount and was scepticat about flex.
so the box is a tight fit against the end of the outrigger to reduce flex/twist.
the rear mount is welded on angle(to the box tube) and bolted to the back of the rear outrigger in factory holes.
this way the front outrigger bolt and washer is removed and the slider slid up and on the bulkhead bolt, then the rear angle/mount just bolts through the outrigger.
i can take pics and possibly e-mail if you like.
shit, these sliders will be given away shortly, because i've bought the rear panels from a county to turn my ute into a s/w.
david
http://www.jeepolog.com/jp_forum/viewto ... 16&start=0
look at the bottom of the first page- there's a good picture of the sliders.
(this is my 110 build up thread, you won't understand, but the pics are good enough)
asaf.
look at the bottom of the first page- there's a good picture of the sliders.
(this is my 110 build up thread, you won't understand, but the pics are good enough)
asaf.
"scars are tattoos with better stories"
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