Does anyone know if Land Rover ever made a High angle or Double cardon joint (like the toyota one) for the LT2320???
Or is there anyone that is selling something that would suit this need!
I may be needing a high angle uni for the Buggy!!
Any help appriciated!
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High angle Uni Joints????
Moderator: Micka
I'm pretty sure you can get a greater angle with a cardon joint. There are a couple of problems with using a DII propshaft: Price (not cheap), the drive flange is differant (no bigey, though) and I know of a few that have failed for no apparent reason.
FYI the other vehicle that was fitted with double cardon propshafts was the Stage I V8 (thats what it was known as in the UK). I'm not sure how many (or if) they were imported in Auz but it was the V8 lwb series 3 made in the early to mid 80's that had full time 4wd. You'll find those shafts a lot cheaper than DII one's if you can find them. A mate of mine used them on his Ibex when he put a Salisbury front axle on it.
I hope that helps,
FYI the other vehicle that was fitted with double cardon propshafts was the Stage I V8 (thats what it was known as in the UK). I'm not sure how many (or if) they were imported in Auz but it was the V8 lwb series 3 made in the early to mid 80's that had full time 4wd. You'll find those shafts a lot cheaper than DII one's if you can find them. A mate of mine used them on his Ibex when he put a Salisbury front axle on it.
I hope that helps,
Will Warne
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Near CV / Cardon joints do not give more flex per se and are only really useful if the prop angles are altered so one UJ runs straight. If not then just use UJ's.
You can get really wide angle yoke UJ's but they are mainly agricultural so heavy but importantly only rated for low RPM. Maybe not a problem in a crawliing buggy.
Other alternative would be to look at Bigelow joints. Like an inside out UJ! High rpm rating, massive angles can be achieved but a bit of an unknown outside some race trucks. Tom Woods has made some up, had a chat with him and he felt they needed more proving.
Tim
You can get really wide angle yoke UJ's but they are mainly agricultural so heavy but importantly only rated for low RPM. Maybe not a problem in a crawliing buggy.
Other alternative would be to look at Bigelow joints. Like an inside out UJ! High rpm rating, massive angles can be achieved but a bit of an unknown outside some race trucks. Tom Woods has made some up, had a chat with him and he felt they needed more proving.
Tim
Life's too short for a full time job
The Disco II front shafts fail prematurely quite frequently - I think this is because the design is non-greasable and I'm told the aircon drain on a Disco II is above the joint... dow!
I priced up different options (a mate priced up the orginal landy parts from the parts books - don't bother!) and the cheapest was to get some driveshafts from scorpion in the UK. I got a front double cardon, rear high angle UJs all up about a grand kiwi - which was less than building them at the local driveshaft shop.
I priced up different options (a mate priced up the orginal landy parts from the parts books - don't bother!) and the cheapest was to get some driveshafts from scorpion in the UK. I got a front double cardon, rear high angle UJs all up about a grand kiwi - which was less than building them at the local driveshaft shop.
ct
The stuff I've bought from Scorpion has always been pretty good actually, and the guy that sells their stuff in NZ has been pretty good to deal with.
So, post up your facts so people can make up their own mind... (except if it's some commercial dispute or defamatory in whcih case you're best to STFU)
So, post up your facts so people can make up their own mind... (except if it's some commercial dispute or defamatory in whcih case you're best to STFU)
ct
I have some stuff from Scorpion and some stuff from elsewhere. SR has been fine by me, and good service.
Will has something against them but I dont think has ever bought anything from them. He seems to think that nobody ever broke any OME stuff.
He does this all over UK forums so we are used to it over here.
Tim
Will has something against them but I dont think has ever bought anything from them. He seems to think that nobody ever broke any OME stuff.
He does this all over UK forums so we are used to it over here.
Tim
Life's too short for a full time job
Things may be better in the Southern Hemisphere but over here their name is muck amoung most of us who drive seriously. Lets start with springs:
I know of multiple cases of springs (particularly rear ones) sagging after weeks or months. The excuse for two of them: 'Your using Simex tyres'. Err, that's unsprung weight. One of the guys I know still running them hads 6" of blocks holding the rear rear end up.
Lets move to dampers, DeCarbons have a reputation as being utter cr*p. I know of 2 OME failiers in this country whereas I know of one guy whos bust three DeCarbons.
Their radius arms, One failed at an event here last month due to poor welding.
I've been there twice and both times they tried to sell me their most expensive bit of kit, when I said I didn't need it they lost interest in me.
Their extreme kit isn't liked by a lot of people as it makes the vehicle unstable on side slopes and everything happens at the back.
Prices are mad for some their kit (hense why the S is often replaced by a $)
Pretty much all of thier kit is ripped off/rebranded from other companies (I asked someone from Equipe what they thought of SR last year, I can't repeat his answer...). You'll find most of what they sell is available through other people for a much lower price.
They've altered the results at a competiton they sponsered so one of their trucks got a placing. They also recently attempted to take advantage of problems organising the London to Brighton run to try and hi-jack it.
The '4x4 is born' vehicle is undriveable on the road, the handling's that bad above 20mph.
Is that enough for you.... I've got much more but that'll give you an idea
I know of multiple cases of springs (particularly rear ones) sagging after weeks or months. The excuse for two of them: 'Your using Simex tyres'. Err, that's unsprung weight. One of the guys I know still running them hads 6" of blocks holding the rear rear end up.
Lets move to dampers, DeCarbons have a reputation as being utter cr*p. I know of 2 OME failiers in this country whereas I know of one guy whos bust three DeCarbons.
Their radius arms, One failed at an event here last month due to poor welding.
I've been there twice and both times they tried to sell me their most expensive bit of kit, when I said I didn't need it they lost interest in me.
Their extreme kit isn't liked by a lot of people as it makes the vehicle unstable on side slopes and everything happens at the back.
Prices are mad for some their kit (hense why the S is often replaced by a $)
Pretty much all of thier kit is ripped off/rebranded from other companies (I asked someone from Equipe what they thought of SR last year, I can't repeat his answer...). You'll find most of what they sell is available through other people for a much lower price.
They've altered the results at a competiton they sponsered so one of their trucks got a placing. They also recently attempted to take advantage of problems organising the London to Brighton run to try and hi-jack it.
The '4x4 is born' vehicle is undriveable on the road, the handling's that bad above 20mph.
Is that enough for you.... I've got much more but that'll give you an idea
Will Warne
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
I have the Disco prop shaft and new flange to match in the front of my Defender 110. It will take signifcantly more angle, and less vibes.
New, regreasable internals can be had, but if memory serves me right, it's a few houndred pounds. I will only change if/when the stock CV wears out.
Rumour has it that the Scorpion part is a repainted stock shaft. Get the black one from your favourite dealer and save.
New, regreasable internals can be had, but if memory serves me right, it's a few houndred pounds. I will only change if/when the stock CV wears out.
Rumour has it that the Scorpion part is a repainted stock shaft. Get the black one from your favourite dealer and save.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
I had both a Disco II and Scorpion front shaft at home so I put them side by side - they're different. The official landrover part is more expensive in NZ. So much for that rumour!
As for springs - I'd pay more attention to the spring rate than the brand if you want to avoid sagging. In playing around with different springs my OME, King, landrover, rangie spares and scorpion springs have all sagged - the softer/longer ones more than the shorter/firmer ones. Didn't really notice much difference between the brands (in fact some of them seemed to have come from the same factory...)
As for springs - I'd pay more attention to the spring rate than the brand if you want to avoid sagging. In playing around with different springs my OME, King, landrover, rangie spares and scorpion springs have all sagged - the softer/longer ones more than the shorter/firmer ones. Didn't really notice much difference between the brands (in fact some of them seemed to have come from the same factory...)
ct
POS, try a truck supplier/fitter like "Gibbs Truck parts" these guys may have more than there couple of stores on the gold coast ( burliegh, and labrador) last time i was in there they said they could make up any propshaft to suit my needs with wide angle yokes, long slip etc and they have done a fair few for some of the extreme nissans and toyota's. they seemed very on the ball and easy to deal with
cheers serg
cheers serg
lowbox wrote:I had both a Disco II and Scorpion front shaft at home so I put them side by side - they're different. The official landrover part is more expensive in NZ. So much for that rumour!
Whatever. My point is not to flog a particual vendor. The point is that any DC propshaft is likely to use exactly the same GKN part, so get it from your cheapest/most availabel source.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
OK Tim, you have been registered here for a while but you suddenly start posting when I start. We'll just take that as a co-incidence, then. The event in Derbyshire, I may not have been there (I spoke to the Antill mob about it, though) but your view isn't a totally objective one, so touché.
What I really wanted to post, though, is that its just getting silly. We don't need yet annother slagging match filled with 'Anglo-Saxon'
. As much as it may ammuse everyone here, its just pointless and ends up with threads that answer nothing. I accept we have differances of opinion on some things but things have just got stupid now. So, do you agree to dissagree on some things? We're doing this because we enjoy it so lets just start doing that 
[/olive branch mode]
What I really wanted to post, though, is that its just getting silly. We don't need yet annother slagging match filled with 'Anglo-Saxon'
. As much as it may ammuse everyone here, its just pointless and ends up with threads that answer nothing. I accept we have differances of opinion on some things but things have just got stupid now. So, do you agree to dissagree on some things? We're doing this because we enjoy it so lets just start doing that
[/olive branch mode]
Will Warne
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Years ago i bought a BYPY brand agricultural double carden joint for my old 6x6. This joint had 70 degree capability but driveshaft specialists refused to make up a drive shaft for me, stating it would explode in high rpm automotive applications. I believe that in the US you can buy an 80 degree joint for offroaders.
Bill.
Bill.
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