Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
drive shaft probs
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
drive shaft probs
ive got a lux double cardon on the rear of the zook..
what i need to know is
do the knuckles at either end need to line up
or do the balancers need to be aligned?
what i need to know is
do the knuckles at either end need to line up
or do the balancers need to be aligned?
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
for a regular uni jointed shaft, you're all right, the yokes should be aligned to prevent driveline vibration. a double cardan joint, however, is a Constant Velocity joint, and misalignment of the yokes with the uni joint at the other end will not make a scrap of difference to driveline vibration. If the shaft has been dymanically balanced as a unit, it should be reassembled the way it came apart to maintain that balance, but for a front shaft it's not usually an issue unless you're building a tourer, in which case you probably wouldn't have (a) a zook (b) a hilux CD shaft in the back.
cheers
Brian
cheers
Brian
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
u are getting vibs in ya zook?
i dont think u will get rid of them with the dc cos it is ment to have no angle on the diff end (all the angle is ment to be taken buy the dc joint)
and in a zuk u cant point the diff at the tcase so there is always goin to be an angle at the diff
my next zuk i am just goin to run a normall d shaft and see if that helps it
i dont think u will get rid of them with the dc cos it is ment to have no angle on the diff end (all the angle is ment to be taken buy the dc joint)
and in a zuk u cant point the diff at the tcase so there is always goin to be an angle at the diff
my next zuk i am just goin to run a normall d shaft and see if that helps it
redzook wrote:and in a zuk u cant point the diff at the tcase so there is always goin to be an angle at the diff
why not? it is a matter of getting the angle of the spring perches right, can be fine tuned with castor wedges if necessary. the shaft angles will change a bit with suspension movement obviously and I appreciate the rear shaft on zooks is pretty short, but it should be doable, to get it to perform acceptably on the road.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
dumbdunce wrote:redzook wrote:and in a zuk u cant point the diff at the tcase so there is always goin to be an angle at the diff
why not? it is a matter of getting the angle of the spring perches right, can be fine tuned with castor wedges if necessary. the shaft angles will change a bit with suspension movement obviously and I appreciate the rear shaft on zooks is pretty short, but it should be doable, to get it to perform acceptably on the road.
u would have to move the rear diff back on the drivers side and leave it stock on the passanger side (although it might wana pull to the left a bit
driver drop output + centered diff
redzook wrote:dumbdunce wrote:redzook wrote:and in a zuk u cant point the diff at the tcase so there is always goin to be an angle at the diff
why not? it is a matter of getting the angle of the spring perches right, can be fine tuned with castor wedges if necessary. the shaft angles will change a bit with suspension movement obviously and I appreciate the rear shaft on zooks is pretty short, but it should be doable, to get it to perform acceptably on the road.
u would have to move the rear diff back on the drivers side and leave it stock on the passanger side (although it might wana pull to the left a bit) to get the diff to point at the tcase
![]()
driver drop output + centered diff
ok, nobody mentioned you had a lux axle in the back. change it to a bundera axle with an offset diff, or run double cardan joints both ends of the trailshaft (probably not room to do that?)
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
plenty of room in the back as it is extended.
the diff is angled towards the flange on the t-case but as mentioned it is offset and the diff is centred.
its only over 60 ks that it vibrates...
ill get it balanced and see how that goes.as i have shaved the flange on the dc side so the sierra flange nut will fit through it.
a sierra tailshaft will fit but only on a moderate lift .even with spacers.
the diff is angled towards the flange on the t-case but as mentioned it is offset and the diff is centred.
its only over 60 ks that it vibrates...
ill get it balanced and see how that goes.as i have shaved the flange on the dc side so the sierra flange nut will fit through it.
a sierra tailshaft will fit but only on a moderate lift .even with spacers.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests
