Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

ironman 4x4 suspension ?

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

Post Reply
Posts: 315
Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:53 am
Location: South Australia

ironman 4x4 suspension ?

Post by cookie monster »

this months 4wd monthly carries an add for " ironman 4x4 suspension".
havent heard of them before, has anybody had any experience of there products?
web site is quite informative and the prices quoted look resonable ($898 for torsion bars, coils and 4 shocks!).
will be looking at going up 2" at the rear and either new t-bars or crank existing to lift front, and replace shocks(was thinking rancho 5000's, efs or arb ???)
to get 2" at front do you have to cut bump stops or will that just give you a bit more droop(i realise that cranking tb's will reduce the amount of droop available).
is there any drawbacks with cranking front 2"(apart from loosing droop), increased cv(and boot) wear? better to fit manual hubs?
car is set up with usual gear in back inc fridge, toolbox(usually kitchen sink!!), etc. also pull 600-700kg camper.
would welcome your thoughts and advise on upgrading the suspension on my 2.8td nl paj.
cookie monster
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
Posts: 6314
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 9:49 am
Location: Newcastle, NSW

Post by Hekta »

Hey Cookie, I noticed this ad also and thought it sounded pretty good.

check out this thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2119& The guys have done a lot of work on the measurements of the available flex in the rear of the jabber. I'm going to be doing an 2" lift after xmas and I'm going with King springs and ranchos (RS99115 in the rear, they are the same length as the 99138 mentioned in the other thread but easier for me to get and RS99029 in the front), wound up bars and chopped bump stops. I will eventually fit manual hubs aswell.

PS suspension gurus, are the 99029's ok to put in the front ? I got that number from one of the other threads about shocks.

Edit: Oh yeah... I've already hoiked my rear swaybar aswell
wtf is an acronym

[color=yellow]Ctrl + W[/color]
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Yeah I'm pretty sure the 99029 will be ok for the front.
extended = 14.5" compressed = 10.375" travel = 4.125"
S-42 top and LS26 bottom eye mount (0.5") standard is S-42 top LS-24 bottom (3/8") so it should bolt straight in.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Posts: 6314
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 9:49 am
Location: Newcastle, NSW

Post by Hekta »

Sweet thanks Frank.
wtf is an acronym

[color=yellow]Ctrl + W[/color]
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 12:12 am
Location: perth western australia

Post by dinos4x4 »

i just got my shiney free wheeling hubs $120 from the wrecker .
i stripped them down and cleaned them in some petrol they look like new.

pulling my front axels out to fit new cvs b4 they go bang , then the hubs will go on

do you feel any differance driving with free wheel hubs as opposed to standard set up ?
100series 2002 4.5/LPG
GET YA GEAR OFF ROAD
www.4x4web.com.au/dinos4x4
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

I put mine on when I had 31" A/T's didn't notice a hell of a lot of difference but some say you save a bit of fuel due to less drag (about 5%) and a bit better acceleration but thats with near enough to standard size tyres.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests