80 series hdt auto stalling

[simsy]

My 80 hdt auto stalls when on a steep hill when i back off or just brake to stop. this is in low range on steep hills even when i restart it and put back in gear. like it's locked in gear.
not all the time only on the steeper hills
it's fine any other time
only way to keep it running is with foot on the brake and throttle

It won't idle with my foot on the brake
can some one tell me the correct way to check the oil level just to make sure i'm doing it right, there seems to be plenty of oil in it when i check it at home.

[dow50r]

Common problem...your fuel pump is having problems pulling fuel to the pump...best fix is to install a pusher pump (electric walbro is a good start) you will actually notice an increase in torque after installation because the timing of the charge will be slightly advanced with better pump internal pressure.
Andrew

[simsy]

Thanks andrew
not sure this is it ? because i can start it if it's in neutral, just if it's in gear it seems to be engaged to much. can you tell me more about the electric pump ? is it just to assist. would any eletric pump do? say from a light truck. i have one at home from a dyna

I'll try next time i'm out just to make sure it idles in neutral but i think it does. i was more concerned about getting moving again

Tks

Steve

[dow50r]

Hi
What is happening is a smaller amount of fuel is being injected because of a pressure drop in the pump, because of a larger vacuum in the inlet of the onboard pump.
A friends manual hdt does thesame when his filter restricts enough, only when the nose is pointing up...you will notice on all t/d cruisers, the inlet pipework is 12mm compared to 1hz's 10mm....so firstly, i would change the filter, and if that fixes the problem, you have a few options...
Put up with this scenario happening...
Add a assister pump that is on with ignition and will give better power aswell as longer filter use
Add more filtration with the pusher pump and get better reliability/power/serviceability.

Yes the pump only assists, it provides fuel to the diesel pump instead of it having to suck it up. Any fuel pump that is designed for a carbi feed is ok, dont use an efi pump.
Andrew

[dumbdunce]

very common problem. my 80 series (1HZ + turbo) manual would do similar when in nose-uphill situations. the pusher pump is the answer. there's nothing "wrong" with your truck, it is a characteristic more than a symptom.

a fresh fuel filter and maybe blowing the fuel line back to the tank to clear out any chunks that might have mde a home in there could possibly help too.

cheers

Brian

[beanz2]

...you will notice on all t/d cruisers, the inlet pipework is 12mm compared to 1hz's 10mm....

Andrew, is the line 12 mm all the way to the fuel tank or is it only 12 mm between the fuel filter and the fuel pump? I am putting a 1HD-T into an HJ75, I am using the original lines as fuel return and making a new supply line. Thanks,

Dave

[simsy]

Hi
What is happening is a smaller amount of fuel is being injected because of a pressure drop in the pump, because of a larger vacuum in the inlet of the onboard pump.
A friends manual hdt does thesame when his filter restricts enough, only when the nose is pointing up...you will notice on all t/d cruisers, the inlet pipework is 12mm compared to 1hz's 10mm....so firstly, i would change the filter, and if that fixes the problem, you have a few options...
Put up with this scenario happening...
Add a assister pump that is on with ignition and will give better power aswell as longer filter use
Add more filtration with the pusher pump and get better reliability/power/serviceability.

Yes the pump only assists, it provides fuel to the diesel pump instead of it having to suck it up. Any fuel pump that is designed for a carbi feed is ok, dont use an efi pump.
Andrew

Thanks andrew i'll try a filter change and i'll put the pump i have on as well.
better to do both seeing as i have the pump.

thanks

Steve

[dow50r]

...you will notice on all t/d cruisers, the inlet pipework is 12mm compared to 1hz's 10mm....

Andrew, is the line 12 mm all the way to the fuel tank or is it only 12 mm between the fuel filter and the fuel pump? I am putting a 1HD-T into an HJ75, I am using the original lines as fuel return and making a new supply line. Thanks,

Dave

Hi Dave
12mm from the tank, including the solenoids etc. I was part of a t/d into a 75 ute transplant, and it performed good with the 10mm piping...we used the 1hz 10mm fuel pump connection aswell. Now we didnt compare b4 and after using a pusher pump, but when it was discussed on lcool, people were returning increases in torque and spool up at lower revs from their factory units, so it will assist any diesel IMHO.
Andrew

[simsy]

Andrew
the pump i have only has small lines.It's actually from a petrol dyna. it is more than likely no good. what pump do you suggest and where could i get one? and what sort of dollars? also does it go after or before the filter?

thanks

Steve

[dow50r]

Andrew
the pump i have only has small lines.It's actually from a petrol dyna. it is more than likely no good. what pump do you suggest and where could i get one? and what sort of dollars? also does it go after or before the filter?

thanks

Steve

Hi Steve
The boys on lcool.org are using a Walbro pump, off the shelf of most retail outlets...dont know much more than that...check out www.lcool.org and have a look in their archives.
The pump goes infront of the solenoids infront of the rear diff, so it doesnt need to suck too much, but pushes the fuel ok. Apparently, the hose sizing is 8mm for a 1hz and 10mm for a hdt/ft.
Andrew