Put a deposit on a BJ-73 MWB. Any comments?

[matt g]

Hi All,

Well I've finally found a vehicle that may be what I want, and have put a holding deposit on it.

It's a 1986 Auto turbo diesel landcruiser MWB.

Here's a link to where it was for sale:

http://www.uniquemotors.com.au/unique_m ... sp?id=1113

OK, it's a Japanese import, that's my only real concern - but for something like a cruiser I'm assuming we're not in a 4Runner/Surf situation with differences are we?

I've got someone asking a Toyota service manager friend about it so hopefully I'll get some good info there.

I'm kind of iffy on the fact it's only got 90,000k on it after 18 years, but it's in excellent condition given its age (a couple of tiny bits of rust), inside it's immaculate. The engine sounds nice - bit of dark smoke when it started but I think that's normal isn't it? Exhaust was fairly clear once it had been running. Inside the engine bay is good - no electrical tape on wiring etc. There was some surface rust colour on the engine block, but would that be normal on a non-alloy engine. Engine is the 13-BT.

I'm coming from a manual petrol Pajero, but the performance, pickup and drivability of this car was fantastic - very car-like, not at all like a truck and the auto transmission seemed really smooth. I couldn't pick any major drops in power at gear change and I couldn't notice any real hard kick from the turbo.

So what should I do? It's in my price range, and it's the sort of vehicle I wanted - my only real issues with it are getting a mechanical check, and the import thing when it comes to insurance.

Are there any showstoppers I should look for?

Does anyone know of a qualified 4WD mechanic around Five Dock in Sydney who can do an inspection?

Thanks

Matt.

[dumbdunce]

just get an NRMA pre-purchase inspection, they are pretty thorough. make sure the little bit of visible rust isn't a sign of much worse rust under the skin.
That vehicle is more or less identical to locally available units so you should never have any trouble with parts/repairs.

cheers

Brian

[matt g]

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the reply, I've been told by a few people on another forum that the electricals in it are all likely to be 24v as opposed to 12, and that might make everything more expensive to fix / prevent me being able to jumpstart others etc..

Not sure what to think now

Cheers
Matt

[dumbdunce]

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the reply, I've been told by a few people on another forum that the electricals in it are all likely to be 24v as opposed to 12, and that might make everything more expensive to fix / prevent me being able to jumpstart others etc..

Not sure what to think now

Cheers
Matt

it's possible it's 24V. it could be a 12/24V hybrid with 24 volt starting and 12V everything else. I wouldn't let that alone put you off buying it, there are a few dealers parts departments around sydney who stock or will import) parts if they are required. a 24V system is far superior to 12v.

cheers

[ToNkA]

check out that front bumber!


BLiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinG

[MudLux101]

someone had to mention that bumper!!!

doubles as a picnic table!!

[matt g]

Hey Everyone,

Well to complicate matters, I've found a 1988 model, BJ-74 for about 3 grand less. more kms, but honestly I'm a tad sus on an 18 year old car only having 90000k on it.

Anyone know if there's any real difference good vs bad of the BJ-73 vs. 74?

I read someone talking about them having different front diff setups.

Thanks
Matt

[dumbdunce]

Hey Everyone,

Well to complicate matters, I've found a 1988 model, BJ-74 for about 3 grand less. more kms, but honestly I'm a tad sus on an 18 year old car only having 90000k on it.

Anyone know if there's any real difference good vs bad of the BJ-73 vs. 74?

I read someone talking about them having different front diff setups.

Thanks
Matt

74 has a high pinoin 8" front diff, 73 has low pinion 9.5" front diff, with sightly different brakes, CVs etc. probably some slight cosmetic differences. I'd check the build plate/chassis VIN to make sure it is a 74, I thought BJ74 started in late '89 or 1990. BJ73 turbos were available locally new but 74's are all imports.

cheers

[matt g]

Hi Brian,

All the vehicles I've been looking at are imports anyway - or are you referring to the import issue in terms of local parts availability?

What does all the stuff about the diff actually mean (know nothing about mechanics)

cheers
matt

[Meldge]

That's the way mate, join the rest of us Middy Owners.

Looks like a very clean car. Don't let a 24v system stop you at all. Electricals aren't all that hard to play with anyway, and there are other 24v systems at the wreckers...

I would look into it insurance wise. They are available in Austalia, but this particular car is still an import so I am not sure if that will change it.


Let us know how you go with it mate.


Cheers,

[dumbdunce]

Hi Brian,

All the vehicles I've been looking at are imports anyway - or are you referring to the import issue in terms of local parts availability?

just making a note of that the '73 turbo was available local market - so apart from 24 volt issues, all the parts should be available etc.

What does all the stuff about the diff actually mean (know nothing about mechanics)

cheers
matt

on the 73 series the front diff is the same as the rear diff. the diameter of the ring gear is nominally 9.5" and the pinion shaft (the bit the driveshaft bolts to) is below the centre line of the axle. It is essentially the same as the diffs used in all landcruisers from 1977 to the late 80's. It is strong and reliable and parts are readily available. The CV (constant velocity) joints which allow the front wheels to steer are also the same as in all landcruisers from 1977 to 1989, also all hiluxes.

on the 74 series the front diff is smaller than the rear diff. the diameter of the ring gear is nomianny 8" and the pinion shaft is above the centre line of the axle. It is essentially the same as the diffs used in the FRONT of *J75 series troopys and utes from 1990 on, and 80 and 105 series front axles. The diff is not as strong as the earlier ones but it has some advantages including better driveline angles, better under diff clearance and less unsprung weight. The CV joints are slightly larger than the earlier ones but not dignificantly stronger. The front brakes on the 74 are also slightly larger than the earlier models.

they are both strong axles and it's not something that should sway your decision either way. all parts for both are locally available.

cheers

Brian

[matt g]

Hi Brian,

Thanks for all that info - you rock

Now just waiting for this afternoon's test drive.

Cheers
Matt

[dumbdunce]

Now just waiting for this afternoon's test drive.

try and get it out on the M4 and give it a good hard highway run - if they'll let you have it for a couple of hours, take it all the way to penrith so you can flog it up lapstone hill, otherwise try and find some other good hills to flog it up a few times. they go pretty hard around town but the highway "performace" isn't for everyone - the auto sucks a fair bit of power and although the turbo motor is good it's still no rocket ship. Drive it hard and feel for rough changes or hesitation - it should be ok with the sort of km you're talking about but if there are problems with the auto they can be expensive to sort out.

on the upside it will use a fair bit less fuel than your old petrol 4by, but the maintenance schedule is more expensive.

cheers

[matt g]

from the limited drive I had in suburban streets the turbo diesel was at least as good as the 2.6 petrol in my lwb pajero - so im not going down in performance

The old paj ended up in 3rd gear when climbing long hills - nothing like a long line of traffic behind you on a 2 lane road

I'll see what I can do about getting some good hard runs out of it.

cheers
matt

[Reddo]

Now just waiting for this afternoon's test drive.

try and get it out on the M4 and give it a good hard highway run - if they'll let you have it for a couple of hours, take it all the way to penrith so you can flog it up lapstone hill, otherwise try and find some other good hills to flog it up a few times. they go pretty hard around town but the highway "performace" isn't for everyone - the auto sucks a fair bit of power and although the turbo motor is good it's still no rocket ship. Drive it hard and feel for rough changes or hesitation - it should be ok with the sort of km you're talking about but if there are problems with the auto they can be expensive to sort out.

on the upside it will use a fair bit less fuel than your old petrol 4by, but the maintenance schedule is more expensive.

cheers

What he’s really saying is…..drive it like you stole it

[V8 Middy]

Doh! its cleaner than mine and I thought I'd done well!!!

The VACC pre purchase inspection isn't too exppensive and is very thorough. If it checks out, I'd buy it

[matt g]

Hi V8 Middy,

I've got Sydney Vehicle Check booked for an inspection - they check stuff that NRMA won't touch, like cylinder compression, and they bring their own hoist to get the whole car off the ground.

The 74 model I looked at was awful - all sorts of loose wiring in the cabin to various devices, much rougher sounding engine with some rattle coming from the underbody, and not in as nice condition internallly.

I've told them it's an import, and may have a non standard electrical system, and about the couple of little bits of rust, so they'll be looking for evidence of repair, respray, rust and previous crash damage. They also said they should be able to get a good idea of weather the mileage is correct.

Something I've noticed though, Some of these vehicles seem to have a second roll bar over the rear passenger seats - where the middle of the frp top sliding windows are. This vehicle I'm looking at doesn't - should I be concerned about that?

Cheers
Matt

[V8 Middy]

Every model I've ever seen had the roll bar. I would have thought its would be a legal requirement cos of the plastic roof.

A pre-purchase inspection is the best $100 you'll ever invest.

So the 74 series that looked really good in the photos was not so good?

[matt g]

The one in the photos I put up in my first post is the 73, the 74 was a different one - but if you look at the photo of the open tailgate you'll see there isn't one where the rear windows are. There IS the flattish one over the driver and passenger, but not over the 2nd row of seats.

Has anyone seen this sort of thing before?

cheers
matt

[DIRTY ROCK STAR]

Now i dont wanna sound harsh to the middy guys, but that thing is ordinary!!! the front bar is .... i cant find words to describe the hideousness!
and the drivers seat?? for a import, theres a lack of comfort and bling there.
save some $$ go get yourself a 40 mate?!!!

better yet, have a look at shorty40's one for sale.
go take it for a run that thing is a beast, most fun 4x4 i have ever driven!

[Bluey]

Now i dont wanna sound harsh to the middy guys, but that thing is ordinary!!! the front bar is .... i cant find words to describe the hideousness!
and the drivers seat?? for a import, theres a lack of comfort and bling there.
save some $$ go get yourself a 40 mate?!!!

better yet, have a look at shorty40's one for sale.
go take it for a run that thing is a beast, most fun 4x4 i have ever driven!

posted in your other thread too. oh well


i think? the difference in roll bars is due to proper australian release middy's have the double cross, whereas the jap one's don't

sounds good, if your happy and vehicle inspection happy, then $$$$$ time. just remember to throw the front bar and put something decent on it. there's a winch in it right?