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GQ factory diff lock swap HELP!
GQ factory diff lock swap HELP!
I have bought a new GQ, and have swapped my diff with factory locker out of my old one, into my new one. the diff swapped over ok, i ran 2 new vacuum lines the full length of the car, the diff lock light switch (on the housing) plugged into an unused plug next to the fuel tank, all the vacuum lines in the engine bay with solenoids etc swapped over ok, and there was also an unused plug, for the solenoids. the switch in the 89 had a 3 wire connector in the dash. in the 93 there are 2 plugs, both 5 wire. i have tried the switch in either plug, but the diff lock does not lock up. i have tried reversing the vacuum lines, as i may have them arse about, but still no lock up? any thing else i have not swapped over? does it need the dash light to work? thanks for any info.
Last edited by CRUSHU on Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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i have both cars here still, so i can compare. i was under the inpression that it was all going to plug in, and there was 2 empty plugs there that fit. i have tried both. i have not compared colours, maybe the leter patrol has a different switch? with a light in it? that would explain the extra wires. has anyone got a 93 onwards with diff lock?
there isn't a fuse for it, and i cant find any diffences in the guage cluster, other than the globe. which i have swapped over.
there isn't a fuse for it, and i cant find any diffences in the guage cluster, other than the globe. which i have swapped over.
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Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
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ok, i have hooked up the vacuum lines, and the diff lock engaged. the light lit up on the dash (it is a blank brown lens. i will get some of those rub on letters from the news agent, so it will read diff lock, and be back lit, like factory) so i have narrowed it down to being that the switch is quite obviously plugged into the wrong socket. either that or the switch is different on the later ones.
still no replies on whether the later ones have 5 connectors??
still no replies on whether the later ones have 5 connectors??
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Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
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Was wheeling... but not now.....
Difflock wiring: Switch has 3 wires, difflock unit has 4 wires and there are two wires per solenoid.
Difflock switch: Yellow/Red, White, Blue
Difflock Unit: Yellow/Red, Orange, Blue, Blue and White
Difflock Indicator Lamp: Yellow/Red, Purple
Solenoid 1: White, Black
Solenoid 2: Blue/White, Black
Yellow/Red (Power) from fuse to difflock switch, diff lock unit and Difflock indicator lamp.
Blue between Difflock switch and difflock unit.
Purple from difflock indicator lamp to earth via switch.
Blue White from difflock unit to solenoid 2
White from difflock switch to solenoid 1
Black - earth from solenoids.
Hope this helps.
Difflock wiring: Switch has 3 wires, difflock unit has 4 wires and there are two wires per solenoid.
Difflock switch: Yellow/Red, White, Blue
Difflock Unit: Yellow/Red, Orange, Blue, Blue and White
Difflock Indicator Lamp: Yellow/Red, Purple
Solenoid 1: White, Black
Solenoid 2: Blue/White, Black
Yellow/Red (Power) from fuse to difflock switch, diff lock unit and Difflock indicator lamp.
Blue between Difflock switch and difflock unit.
Purple from difflock indicator lamp to earth via switch.
Blue White from difflock unit to solenoid 2
White from difflock switch to solenoid 1
Black - earth from solenoids.
Hope this helps.
OK, I still have it working thru the white wire, to the top solenoid. that leaves the blue wire to the diff. i hooked up the other solenoid with jumper wires, and it works. there is no power to it from the blue/white wire. in the dash, there is 2 connectors. the one im using has a yellow/red, a white, a blue, a black and a orange. i have reconfigured the wiring spots in the socket, so the yellow/red, white and blue are where they should be, and the other 2 are in unused spots. the difflock works the upper solenoid, but not the lower.
in the other socket, there is also a yellow/red, and a blue, a blue/white, and a couple of others. i pulled it apart, and ran blue to the switch, while using the 2 wires from the 1st socket. nothing different. then i tried with the blue/white. it made the second solenoid work, and the diff lock. there was a electrical oh shit! smell, but no smoke, and now the light does not work. the globe is ok, as i have swapped it with another. the switch did not get hot.
now the light does not work at all, even if i manually lock the diff.
many thanks to Beastmavster for all his help, but hopefully someone can shed some light on what the hell is going on. thanks
in the other socket, there is also a yellow/red, and a blue, a blue/white, and a couple of others. i pulled it apart, and ran blue to the switch, while using the 2 wires from the 1st socket. nothing different. then i tried with the blue/white. it made the second solenoid work, and the diff lock. there was a electrical oh shit! smell, but no smoke, and now the light does not work. the globe is ok, as i have swapped it with another. the switch did not get hot.
now the light does not work at all, even if i manually lock the diff.
many thanks to Beastmavster for all his help, but hopefully someone can shed some light on what the hell is going on. thanks
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ok, i have it working now. Many thanks to Beastmavster and Bazzle for their relayed pages of workshop manuals.
to summarise, so this can be added to the bible:
To transfer factory Diff Lock from an '89 GQ to my new 92 GQ I had to do the following:
Swap diffs over, easy as mine were both same ratio.
Swap Diff lock solenoid pack (carefully, as they are fragile, and expensive).
Swap vacuum tank, and lines etc into new car.
Swap diff lock unit (black box bigger than a matchbox) into new car.
Swap diff lock globe into new cluster.
Buy clips from Nissan.
Part no. 4627101G10 x 3 for vacuum pipe across firewall. @ $2.90ea
Part no. 0128100601 x 5 for vacuum parts in engine bay. @ $1.70ea
Buy 8m of vacuum hose 6mm (I think).
Plug Diff lock actuator into unused socket taped up out of the way over back end of Aux tank. Use contact cleaner to clean out trapped dust.
Install all engine bay components, and hook into the vacuum line to the brake booster, before the oneway valve.
Plug solenoid pack into unused socket taped down out of the way, between firewall, and left inner guard. Clip wiring into top gusset.
Run the vacuum hose doubled up, from the diff vacuum hoses, with enough slack for down travel, across the rear crosmember, and up the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. I had a gas line there, so I cable tied it to the line. Be careful not to let it too close to the exhaust. Connect them to the solenoid. Don't worry about which one to where, just yet.
Remove centre dash Fascia. Plug spare 6 way connector with Yellow/Red, Orange, Blue and Blue/White into diff lock unit.
**you may not have to do this next step, but I did have to**
Pull apart other spare 6 way connector, using jewlers screwdrivers to unclip it apart. Using a screwdriver from the end, lift catch, and slide terminals out the back. Reinstall them so that if facing you, you have White in the top left, Blue in the top right, Yellow/Red in the centre lower, and the Black and Purple?(maybe Orange) in any other spots, as they are unused. Plug in switch. Start car, turn diff lock on. If diff lock turns off, the vacuum hoses are the wrong way around. Reconnect them the other way. if diff lock turns on, and turns off when you turn it off, all done.
Trouble shooting: with hoses off the solenoids, the lower one supplies vacuum to the diff when lock is on. Upper supplies vacuum when lock is off.
to summarise, so this can be added to the bible:
To transfer factory Diff Lock from an '89 GQ to my new 92 GQ I had to do the following:
Swap diffs over, easy as mine were both same ratio.
Swap Diff lock solenoid pack (carefully, as they are fragile, and expensive).
Swap vacuum tank, and lines etc into new car.
Swap diff lock unit (black box bigger than a matchbox) into new car.
Swap diff lock globe into new cluster.
Buy clips from Nissan.
Part no. 4627101G10 x 3 for vacuum pipe across firewall. @ $2.90ea
Part no. 0128100601 x 5 for vacuum parts in engine bay. @ $1.70ea
Buy 8m of vacuum hose 6mm (I think).
Plug Diff lock actuator into unused socket taped up out of the way over back end of Aux tank. Use contact cleaner to clean out trapped dust.
Install all engine bay components, and hook into the vacuum line to the brake booster, before the oneway valve.
Plug solenoid pack into unused socket taped down out of the way, between firewall, and left inner guard. Clip wiring into top gusset.
Run the vacuum hose doubled up, from the diff vacuum hoses, with enough slack for down travel, across the rear crosmember, and up the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. I had a gas line there, so I cable tied it to the line. Be careful not to let it too close to the exhaust. Connect them to the solenoid. Don't worry about which one to where, just yet.
Remove centre dash Fascia. Plug spare 6 way connector with Yellow/Red, Orange, Blue and Blue/White into diff lock unit.
**you may not have to do this next step, but I did have to**
Pull apart other spare 6 way connector, using jewlers screwdrivers to unclip it apart. Using a screwdriver from the end, lift catch, and slide terminals out the back. Reinstall them so that if facing you, you have White in the top left, Blue in the top right, Yellow/Red in the centre lower, and the Black and Purple?(maybe Orange) in any other spots, as they are unused. Plug in switch. Start car, turn diff lock on. If diff lock turns off, the vacuum hoses are the wrong way around. Reconnect them the other way. if diff lock turns on, and turns off when you turn it off, all done.
Trouble shooting: with hoses off the solenoids, the lower one supplies vacuum to the diff when lock is on. Upper supplies vacuum when lock is off.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Re: GQ factory diff lock swap HELP!
so just to be sure those 2 wires that come off the diff are the locker engagement light wires?
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