Oils

[MissDrew]

What do you use?
Do you think synthetic oils are werth the extra $$$
What brand is the best?
What weight is the best for motors (20/30) and diffs (80/90) etc

I`ve never realy worried about them before and just use what ever was around but did mostly stick to shell oils.

[Slunnie]

Mobil 1 5-50

I think they are an economy if you motor is going to last for a few hundred thousand km's. If its to thrash and blow, dont bother.

IMO Mobil 1 is the best

I use 5-50, dealer uses 0-40 in the TD5 motor. If you've got some old pushrod engine, then you'd probably want thicker oil anyway.

[Macca177]

not sure on if its sythenic or not but from wot ive been told
Penzol is the best to use....as its a company that all they do is make oils unlike mos the otehr companies that do a bit of everything.
wich does make sense but yeah i use penzol or castrol

its probly liek toyota vs nissan
holden vs ford.

[up2nogood]

Never been a fan of Pennzoil, but then the last time I used it was over 8 years ago. Used to put it into customers cars but found when they came back for their 5-6k service the aircleaners were gummed up with oil blow by and they rattled like all hell on start up.

Found it became way too volatile way too soon.

I hope they have fixed this?

I did read a Fast Four mag where they did a synthetic oil comparo, some horribly expensive oil was first, BP 5000(?) second, Motul 3rd, Mobil 1 fourth and so on. Can't remember the test criteria. Maybe it was first to 12,000 revs!

[griff]

Don't know about synthetics as have old donks, otherwise can't go past Valvoline Premium Blue mineral engine oil.
griff

[MissDrew]

what nobody uses oil

[damo lux]

I use mobil delvac mx that I get free from work I've used it for four years with no probs












and its FREE

[Tiny]

I read something that synthetic is usless in a deisel as given the 5k oil change interval, that the lubrication qualities of a standard mineril oil is still good at this stage, and synthetics are not worth the extra cost, however on a petrol different story

[ausyota]

OK I have a oil question too.
I used to use Penrite HPR Light Diesel (15-40) oil in my 2.8 Hilux.
Once the Ks got up around the 150,000 (now at 230,000) my mechanic sugested switching to the thicker HPR Diesel (20-60) oil which I have been running for a while.
Well now Im fitting a turbo and Im wondering if the oil Im using might be a bit thick but not sure given the Ks on the motor.
And yes I do the oil and filter every 5000.
Paul.

[runnin4life]

OK I have a oil question too.
I used to use Penrite HPR Light Diesel (15-40) oil in my 2.8 Hilux.
Once the Ks got up around the 150,000 (now at 230,000) my mechanic sugested switching to the thicker HPR Diesel (20-60) oil which I have been running for a while.
Well now Im fitting a turbo and Im wondering if the oil Im using might be a bit thick but not sure given the Ks on the motor.
And yes I do the oil and filter every 5000.
Paul.

are you going to rebuild the motor

[ausyota]

No Im just going to drive it till it gets a bit tired (200,000 is barely run in on a hilux ) and maybe swap in a 3 litre later.

[Tas_Dean]

I use Lubrimax, as recommended by a mechanic mate of mine. It is hard to find (I buy it off him, as he buys it directly from the state Lubrimax wholesaler), But it is apparently the only oil in australia that meets U.S. Miliatary Standards.

cheers, Dean

[Webbie]

OK I have a oil question too.
I used to use Penrite HPR Light Diesel (15-40) oil in my 2.8 Hilux.
Once the Ks got up around the 150,000 (now at 230,000) my mechanic sugested switching to the thicker HPR Diesel (20-60) oil which I have been running for a while.
Well now Im fitting a turbo and Im wondering if the oil Im using might be a bit thick but not sure given the Ks on the motor.
And yes I do the oil and filter every 5000.
Paul.

The mechanic next door says that PENRITE is full recycled oil
So i won't be using that Shit .Try FUCHS thats supossed to be the shit.

[rlaxton]

The mechanic next door says that PENRITE is full recycled oil
So i won't be using that Shit .Try FUCHS thats supossed to be the shit.

That is completely the opposite of what it says on the container so I very much doubt that could be true.

[Tiny]

OK I have a oil question too.
I used to use Penrite HPR Light Diesel (15-40) oil in my 2.8 Hilux.
Once the Ks got up around the 150,000 (now at 230,000) my mechanic sugested switching to the thicker HPR Diesel (20-60) oil which I have been running for a while.
Well now Im fitting a turbo and Im wondering if the oil Im using might be a bit thick but not sure given the Ks on the motor.
And yes I do the oil and filter every 5000.
Paul.

The mechanic next door says that PENRITE is full recycled oil
So i won't be using that Shit .Try FUCHS thats supossed to be the shit.

as opposed to the shite that the mechenics get cheap in bulk from valvoline etc.....one size fits all!!!!

[Dirtjeep]

REDLINE , synthetic.

[MissDrew]

With so many different brands on the market its hard to know which one realy is the best as everybody says the one they use is the best which basicly is the same as the oil makers saying theirs is the best

[toughnut]

I used to ues the Penrite oils and I tried Motul and the engine runs heaps smoother and much quieter. I used to think that penrite was the goods but not any more.

[Tas_Dean]

I was using Pennzoil in my old petrol Pajero, as was a mate of mine with his, and we were going through oil waaaaayyyy too fast. Spoke to a couple of mechanics who both said that pennzoil can't handle the high underbonnet temperatures that you see in a 4wd in low range!
I changed to Lubrimax, and my mate to BP Visco 2000, and we both found a much lower oil consumption and smoother running.

Some food for thought.

Cheers, Dean

[bruiser]

Don't think that you are doing the best for your motor by spending mega bucks and getting full synthetic with ultra low viscosity rattings.

From what I've been told by many mechanics, These can in fact be quite bad for your motor if it's got a few k's on it and has not been running it previously.

If you buy the car brand new and run these oils form the start than thats great, but switching to these on a motor with over 200 000k or whatever that has been running standard oil will do more harm than good.

Take it or not but this is the advice I have got from many a mechanic.
Steve

[Tas_Dean]

From what I've been told by many mechanics, These can in fact be quite bad for your motor if it's got a few k's on it and has not been running it previously.

Take it or not but this is the advice I have got from many a mechanic.
Steve

The reason for this is because it has very High amounts of detergents, in order for the oil to last longer. Old motors often maintain their compression and oil seals only because of the carbon and other deposits, and if you put a high detergent oil in your engine, that cleans these deposits away, goodbye oil seals and often compression, and then you get those great clouds of nice blue smoke behind you.

That is the way it was described to me by a mechanic!

Cheers, Dean

[GoPies]

You can use Mobil 1 or similar in Deisel motors and increase your service period to 10,00km. Downfall, engine bore glazing due to hi detergant in the oil.
You should still change your filter every 5,000km as well.

[Tiny]

From what I've been told by many mechanics, These can in fact be quite bad for your motor if it's got a few k's on it and has not been running it previously.

Take it or not but this is the advice I have got from many a mechanic.
Steve

The reason for this is because it has very High amounts of detergents, in order for the oil to last longer. Old motors often maintain their compression and oil seals only because of the carbon and other deposits, and if you put a high detergent oil in your engine, that cleans these deposits away, goodbye oil seals and often compression, and then you get those great clouds of nice blue smoke behind you.

That is the way it was described to me by a mechanic!

Cheers, Dean

Took the words out of my mouth, I blew a dak dak motor up likr this, started using good oil which had high detergebt content......basicly when we pulled the motor a part, the sump was real nice and clean, but 20yrs of shite that had built up got into and around the rings and created scoring of the sleeves etc.

my suggestion, is if its deisel dont look at sythetic oil as normal mineral and combos will not breakdown in the 5k oil change interval.

NEW petrols will be ok withj synthetic but you and up needing to allways run synthetic as they tnd to s**t themselves if you have run synthetic and change to mineral. don't know the basis behind that one, but a mechenic frien told me

[MissDrew]

Well what about a petrol V8 with 100,000kms on it and all the mod cons like fuel injection and sensors everywhere and yes I`ll be changing oil every 5000kms if not sooner as the hilux is lucky if it does 5000kms a year these days unlike when I was using it for work and doing about 60,000kms a year.

[Patroler]

In the chev i run castrol R, the non synthetic stuff, can't remember exactly what weight, but its fairly heavy, i change it and filter every 5k and don't use any oil between changes.
If i had over head cams i'd run a lighter oil - so it can pump up to the top of the motor a bit quicker at start up, probably a synthetic also.
I used to run mobil 1 in twin cam turbo engines and on the R1 road bike i used motul synthetic - the dearest one.

[Bush65]

Going from another post in the rover forum:

Full synthetics, such a Mobil Delvac 1, can be used with advantage in diesel engines. Trucking companies find they can greatly extend the oil change interval and engine wear is dramatically reduced. They analyse the oil to determine when to change it.

The main reason that our diesels would want shorter oil change intervals when running full synthetic, is because we generally only do short runs.

Sulphur in the fuel causes sulphuric acid to accumulate in the oil when the engine only does short runs. On long runs the engine can get rid of the acid.

[paul1a]

I use Penrite HPR (20-60). I used to get the oil warning light coming on at idle after a long run in 40 degree plus temps when I used a 15-40, it doesn't happen now with the 20-60.
I Plastigauged all the mains & bigends at the time and the clearances were well within specifications. I think those lighter oils just aren't suitable for the higher temps of Northern & Central Australia. Another reason I use Penrite is because its Australian owned & manufactured.

[Midget]

I use PENRITE HPR DIESEL.And i'm more than happy with it.
I have tried other oils in my Turbo diesel 80 and have found they loose oil pressure to quick.The HPR DIESEL holds nicely...

And i notice no one has mentioned ROYAL PURPLE,This is the ducks guts in oils,all the race cars use this.
But it will cost a shit load......


Jamie

[quick60]

You need to look at the TBN (total base number) of the oil for extended oil changes. In simple terms, the higher the number, the better the oil is able to cope with acids etc that build up in the oil as part of the combustion cycle (petrol or diesel) Oils like Castrol GTD have a TBN of 8, and the one I use (ULX-110) has a TBN of 12. How does this relate to oil life? I use oil analysis to determine change intervals and the ULX-110 is in way better condition after 12K than the Castrol after 5K, and I have extended change intervals on the 1HDT to 15K. I have several blokes using it their TD80's with oil sample results coming back after a 14K desert trip that allowed the oil to still be in use. The ULX uses a 100% parafinic base stock (same as Mobil 1 / Royal Purple etc) but is still classed as a mineral oil because of the additives used in blending. They do an excellent gear oil as well which is loaded with molybdenum, and so far, has kept the original 60 box pretty free from wear with the 1HDT in front of it (again by oil analysis).

[bruiser]

GUTS
I would still not be running your truck with 100 000ks on something like mobile 1 full synthetic.

If I bought brand new I would definetly, or maybe 50 000 - 60000ks any more and I'd go for, medium to light viscosity, especially if you are in high temp areas.

These oils are made for serious sports cars with very very good precision tolerence motors that are designed to rev to 8000rpm or whatever. Like a ferrarie etc not your deisel or petrol cruiser donk with 100 000k's plus.