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Muddy starter motors
Moderator: -Scott-
Muddy starter motors
One muddy puddle with deeper ruts than expected, and now my starter motor is on strike. I gave it a flogging and it got me home, but I'm guessing it needs attention.
Searching here suggests this is a common problem, and a good clean should see me right for a while, but I'm wondering if anybody has considered making mods to stop this happening?
First thing to my mind is run a line from my air compressor into the top of the starter motor, and blow air in the top and let it out the bottom. But I haven't pulled it out yet, so I don't know if this is feasible.
Any other thoughts? I'm very pissed off tha one muddy puddle has stuffed it - it wasn't even thick mud.
Cheers,
Scott
Searching here suggests this is a common problem, and a good clean should see me right for a while, but I'm wondering if anybody has considered making mods to stop this happening?
First thing to my mind is run a line from my air compressor into the top of the starter motor, and blow air in the top and let it out the bottom. But I haven't pulled it out yet, so I don't know if this is feasible.
Any other thoughts? I'm very pissed off tha one muddy puddle has stuffed it - it wasn't even thick mud.
Cheers,
Scott
You can and should seal the bell housing as L/R and Nissan do,
{not that anything is truely sealed in a L/R}.
A bead of silicone arround the fork boot and the bell housing face and a breather tube or low air pressure.
Through auto electrians I have purchased sealed, {or more sealed } starters for Chevs to extend their lives.
J Top
{not that anything is truely sealed in a L/R}.
A bead of silicone arround the fork boot and the bell housing face and a breather tube or low air pressure.
Through auto electrians I have purchased sealed, {or more sealed } starters for Chevs to extend their lives.
J Top
I've just replaced mine with a new one (2nd one in 5 years) and I drive a lot of mud.
There is a generic brand (Mando) which fits a 3.0V6 I get them new for $200 from a friendly auto eleccy.
Being foward facing they cop the slop and there is not a hell of a lot you can do about it. I know guys who have covered their's entirely with silicon and just ran a breather to high up in the engine bay.
I haven't worried too much about it as $400 in 5 years for basically a consumable (for the mud that I drive) is acceptable.
I'm a bit more careful nowadays only driving the slop if I have to.
There is a generic brand (Mando) which fits a 3.0V6 I get them new for $200 from a friendly auto eleccy.
Being foward facing they cop the slop and there is not a hell of a lot you can do about it. I know guys who have covered their's entirely with silicon and just ran a breather to high up in the engine bay.
I haven't worried too much about it as $400 in 5 years for basically a consumable (for the mud that I drive) is acceptable.
I'm a bit more careful nowadays only driving the slop if I have to.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Picked up the starter this morning: cleaned, machined commutator, new brushes, reassemble and test for $165. Thought it was a little steep, but it's better than $200! And I still have my original starter motor, for what that's worth.
The auto sparky suggested the bulk of the crap could have come in through the bell housing. I'm wondering if my slipping clutch is related to the oil leak I discovered on the weekend, and if that could have been caused by a belly-full of muddy water?
The joys of wheeling.
Scott
The auto sparky suggested the bulk of the crap could have come in through the bell housing. I'm wondering if my slipping clutch is related to the oil leak I discovered on the weekend, and if that could have been caused by a belly-full of muddy water?
The joys of wheeling.
Scott
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