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Diff lockers....help

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Diff lockers....help

Post by billybus »

I have a 76 rangie with 2" body and 2" spring lift, running 285/75/16's on reversed disco rims.
It has a Quaife "tourque biased lsd" and Quaife 19 spline half shafts.
A great diff for sand/mud/snow but useless if you get crossed up.
I want to go rock crawling etc so some kind of full locker.
oh yeah, and I want to do it on the cheap!
I might put that diff up front, then detroit/arb/maxi/jack in the rear.....
Or just sell the Quaife and go full lockers all round....
Any advice, any buyers for the Quaife, any full lockers for sale ???
Thanks in advance for any help
Dave
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Post by GRIMACE »

put it up front and weld the rear :D
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Post by HSV Rangie »

fit the quaffie up front
fit any of the centres you mentioned.


My order of pref:

Jacmac,
Maxidrive
ARB
Detroit.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by billybus »

Thanks guys, where can I get 19 spline front shafts(other than from Quaife)?

Dave
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Post by HSV Rangie »

this will be the next major issue.

Custom made if not avail from Quaife

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by billybus »

btt :)
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Post by red90 »

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/download/41.pdf

I also believe you would need to rearrange the gears in the diff as the front and rear arrangemnt is different. At least it is with a Truetrac, which is the same type of diff.

If I were you, I'd sell the diff with the shafts and use part of the money to get another locker for the front. If you like this style, Truetracs are much cheaper. No point in throwing away those expensive rear shafts.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
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Post by Slunnie »

Truetracs are not as good as the quaiffe though. Quaiff have a stronger bias percentage in them, which makes them more positive.
Cheers
Slunnie

Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
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Post by red90 »

It can not be much different. They are the same basic design. It looks to be over twice the cost.
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Post by Maxtd5def »

From memory the Quaife had up to a 4:1 bias, the Truetrac was 3:1.

Regards
Max P
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Post by red90 »

0 times 4 = 0
0 times 3 = 0

:armsup:
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Post by Maxtd5def »

If you lift a wheel, exactly so!

Thats why you hear sometimes of the trick to touch the brakes with these diffs, to load the lifted wheel. Rumour has it this technique is in the Hummer handbook. It'd be a bit hard in a manual though, wouldn't it.

Regards
Max P
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Post by red90 »

Yes, it is a good idea, if you have Hummer axles. Unfortunately it is not as good an idea with Rover breadsticks.

Why is it harder with a manual???? Left foot on brake, right on throttle.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
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Post by billybus »

Hmmm, what do you think of leaving the Quaife where it is and put a full locker (jack/Maxi/Arb) up front?

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Post by Maxtd5def »

The Nissan guys debate this all the time.

The quaife would work better in the rear, coz the articulation is better. While theres wheel contact with the ground, the Quaife will work.

But what about the CVs...

Whats your driving style like. If you spin wheels getting up, the Quaife would be kinder on the front end. But if your style is not smash & bash, and you can let a locked front end just walk over stuff (i.e. back out & try again if you don't get up, rather than trying to get up everything first time) a locked front end will be just great. It makes a big difference.

Regards
Max P
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Post by red90 »

No, most traction comes from the rear and a rear locker is much more important than a front. Sell the Quaife and shafts. Install a rear locker. Run the rig for a while and see if you really need a front. If you are going to do the front it makes sense to go with the Chromo Longs. It is a lot to spend for a little extra traction, so you should make sure it is something you actually meed.
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

I have a detroit rear and arb front for sale for a grand the pair.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by Aquarangie »

Personally I'm not a big fan of LSD's and self lockers, anyhting I can't switch on or off for that matter traction-wise.

There are many options to replace it with as all have mentioned, but if you are happy with your Quaife LSD leave it alone.

In all honesty, you can't go past driver operated gear. I am partial to maxi-drive lockers, they're not cheap but I have found them to be more than strong enough for what I do. I have never had any problems with them either and the rear has been on 4 diffrent Rangies!!

Anyway, something else to ponder and confuse you :D

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Post by Rainbow Warrior »

Maxtd5def wrote:The Nissan guys debate this all the time.

The quaife would work better in the rear, coz the articulation is better. While theres wheel contact with the ground, the Quaife will work.

Regards
Max P


I'm not so sure on the front/rear choice, I need to do more research, I have a tight LSD in the front of my GQ and a ARB in the rear. I have tried staying in 2wd as far as I could crawl then engaging the locker and going no further, them I engaged 4wd & the LSD without the locker and progress resumed, then had to put the locker in as well further up.

That having been said, it's surprising how far you can get sometimes when you lay the boot in with a petrol because you should have got further, then realise you were in 2wd High range still and only the factory LSD.

I do like having no worries about CV's with the LSD front, and know the rear ARB & axles are just about bomb proof.
Last edited by Rainbow Warrior on Fri Mar 25, 2005 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by billybus »

Maggot,
how much just for the ARB?,
10 or 24 spline?

Dave


Thanks to everyone for their input...if I was rich I'd go for Maxi's both ends...but I'm not, so I may just chuck a used ARB up front and see what breaks.....
:P
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

billybus wrote:Maggot,
how much just for the ARB?,
10 or 24 spline?

Dave


Thanks to everyone for their input...if I was rich I'd go for Maxi's both ends...but I'm not, so I may just chuck a used ARB up front and see what breaks.....
:P


PM me with an offer and we'll go from there.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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More advice....

Post by billybus »

If I go with the 10 spline ARB can the setup be improved upon,
ie can you get stronger 10 spline drive shafts and suitable CVs
or are you stuck with standard stuff?
What will break first the shafts or CVs?

(running 32's with moderate right foot!)

Thanks
Dave
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Re: More advice....

Post by Maggot4x4 »

billybus wrote:If I go with the 10 spline ARB can the setup be improved upon,
ie can you get stronger 10 spline drive shafts and suitable CVs
or are you stuck with standard stuff?
What will break first the shafts or CVs?

(running 32's with moderate right foot!)

Thanks
Dave


You will break stock axels. Never broken a CV and I run 35's. It all depends how you drive it. When you upgrade your axels down the track, I believe you can just modify the locker with bits from ARB at not much cost. I am not sure about stronger 10 splines, but someone here can tell you.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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