6x6 on the way

[110 TUFF]

Ok guys, decided to go the whole hog.

my 110 is on the market and am buying a brand new 130 and converting it to a fully coil sprung 6x6. maxi drives front and center but the rear cant have' em got to go an automatic lokka for it. gonna try and run 34's allround. will do the chip thing and intercooler on the new Td5. cant wait. they reckon i can get around 500mm travel from each of the rear wheels, ye ha!

SO any one want to buy my 96 110?

10/ 1996 plated
120 000 Ks
maxi drive HD axles allround
Maxi drive flanges
maxi drive bull bar ( non winch )
maxi drive Greasable rear ball joint
disco rims
5x 34 inch Jungle trekker 2's
5x 32x10.5 inch Michelen X
tinted windows
custom HD steel rear step/protector ( bolts to chassi cross member )
2.5 inch straight through exhaust
custom rear shocks made by 4 way 12.5 inch travel with rubber bushes
front Old Man Emu N73's 11.5 inch travel
front and rear diff protectors
extendend diff breathers
2 inch lifted kings springs
1 inch coil spacers
turbo timer
checker plate on side skirts and wing tops
snorkle
headlight protectors
spotties x2
sams slotted bushes in front arms
fuel pump has been re calibrated for more power
J&R high flow custom air filter.
rear storage system ( home made from ply and marine carpet)
Ox incab mounted air compressor
powder coated HD alloy roof rack
fire extinguishersx2
UHF tx 3400
Gps mounts
dual batteries


Some of this gear i may swap into the 6x6 like the CB and things.

I have never had any troubles with her, always had it serviced by ethier the guys at rover tech in brisbane or MR automotive at redcliffe

Its has been a great truck and will be sorry to see it go. Thought i might post her on here and may be another rover nut wouldtreat her well.

any ideas what i could get for her?

Drew.

[110 TUFF]

oh i forgot, theres two 15 inch 12 volt fluros that light up the rear interior for camping at night these are connected to the dual batteries. also there is various 12V outlets through out the truck.

Drew

[ISUZUROVER]

Good luck with the sale and new project. Sorry but I can't help on the price.

Just out of interest, why can't you fit a Maxi-drive to the rearmost axle? And what suspension/drive setup are you using in the rear.

[110 TUFF]

thanks, now im no mechanic but the suspension is much the same as whats there now, ie, there is an A frame with two lower links running back to the chassi, in addition the second most rear set of drive wheels is the same setup only mirrored. all suspension mounts are removed and new HD ones fabed up. all shocks a mounted new and are going to be using 14 inch shocks on all rear drive wheels.

not 100% clear about why he cant use the maxi on the center diff. perhaps not enough room, as another drive shaft comes out of the rear of the center diff? un fortunatley he is in NSW so i just cant go and see him and have a chat and a look, im in brissy.

Perehaps bill aka Daddy long legs might know of this setup and could shed some more light, its done by a mob called 6x6 Australia. there got a web site.. www.6x6australia.com.au

it will be a 147 inch wheel base overal

Drew.

[110 TUFF]

sorry, trie this one... www.4wdworld.com.au/outlets/6x6aust/

drew

[stuee]

I've seen a few 6wd that they've put out before in magazines. Some impressive stuff. I don't see why you can't use a maxi-drive on the rear-most axle, maybe the the middle axle which has a drive shaft front and rear??? Are they definately using another rover axle?

I know its in one of the yota monthlys and I think 4x4 Australia.

edit* mini diagram did not turn out as planned

[110 TUFF]

yep sorry, maxi cant be used on the center diff

Drew.

[110 TUFF]

yep sorry, maxi cant be used on the center diff yep using another rover

Drew.

[daddylonglegs]

The 6x6 link didn't reveal too much and I am not familiar with the drive setup they use, but I would hope that they at least use a Salisbury diff on the rearmost axle as that is the one that really cops it when the rear suspension runs out of articulation and ceases to load share when climbing abrupt gradients.On my old 6x6 I broke quite a few rear ring and pinions but never broke a centre one. The Sandringham Motor Company discovered the same thing on their series 3 6x6 conversions in the 1980's.

Bill.

[landy_man]

can I ask WHY ???
147" wheelbase will be an absolute pig offroad, and besides the wank factor, I cant see any reaon in extending the already huge wheelbase of a 130.
20" of wheel travel ??? what shocks will they be using to get this amount of wheel travel....
Unless you have huge loads to carry onroad I just cant see the point

[110 TUFF]

Landy man, the reason for me going the 6x6 is not for the wank factor. I fish every major fishing comp on the eastern coast of queensland and northen NSW. This vechicle will spend 95% of its life trudging up and down sometimes soft, very soft, steep rutted, washed away sections of beach. the dual cab is needed for our family and the length ( 147 inch wheelbase ) is needed for our canopy and tray back that is extensivley decked out, or will be. things such as a 120L fridge and frezzer settup consisting of two batteries which alone weigh 220 kg combined, room for a bed and an exstensive kitchen area etc etc. with a lot of weight on board and the necesatiy of a dual cab there is no way in hell id want to be draging a lazy the places i travel. ive looked at doing this two a nissan and a cruiser but the already longer dual cab defender is by far the easiest way for me.

I could elaborate more, but im cooking dinner in bettween typing.

imagine my ramp over angle over ruts and dunes with a 4x4 147 inch wheelbase. id have to put a 8 inch lift on it, and imagine getting that thing bogged down top the belly!

Drew

[110 TUFF]

It wont be used as a rock hopping Tuff truck.

[landy_man]

far enough... but you might want to consider replacing the TD5 engine as well, as it will be very underpowered with all that weight.. they are slugs at the best of times.. even in a 110

[HSV Rangie]

rechip 200 KW should be enough

Michael.

[ISUZUROVER]

This vechicle will spend 95% of its life trudging up and down sometimes soft, very soft, steep rutted, washed away sections of beach.

You may want to consider getting some galvanising done while the conversion is happening. At least the chassis and the firewall would be good too. Since you are forking out $$$ you may as well make sure it lasts.

As Bill said, a salisbury for the rear axle is a VERY good idea.

I don't see why they cannot fit a maxi-drive to the centre axle. The Maxi-drive should be able to be adapted just as easily to a rover diff with a drive-through system as to a normal rover diff. And since you are already buying 2 maxi-drive lockers, I'm sure mal wouldn't mind making any changes necessary if it means selling you a third locker.

[110 TUFF]

I think when re chipped and the bigger intercooler fitted i should have bulk power. yeah he is going to use a sailsbury on the rear. might have a word with mal. I was thinking about galvanising, but seems like a lot of work when none of the orig section has to be touched. 130 doesnt even come with a tray

drew

[red90]

I was thinking about galvanising, but seems like a lot of work when none of the orig section has to be touched. 130 doesnt even come with a tray

Umm, how?? The original rear axle will need to be moved. 147" - 127" = 20". Pretty hard to have axles 20" apart with 32" tyres. I assumed you were moving the middle axle forward to 110" or so. You need a fair chassis extnsion if mounting a reverse A-arm and trailing arm for the rear axle as you have described.

If it were me, I'd get an old 110 to start with as a base. No point chopping up a nice new frame.

[red90]

You might want to borrow a long 6x6 like this for a try before committing. Turning this beast off road on tight tracks will be very hard. If they use a drive through middle axle there will be no differentiation between the two rear axles, so they will scrub when turning on the bitumen. With the axles close together, you will be limitted on travel without exceeding the propshaft acceptable angles.

[daddylonglegs]

Drew, I am assuming the wheelbase will be something like 110'' +37''. so wouldn't you be better off starting with a 110 chassis so that only the chassis section behind the rear spring towers wil need to be altered. It would be pointless to shorten a chassis that has just been extended.
The 130 ( i think they are actually 127'') chassis is just a 110 that has been cut in the middle and a section added to it. The older 130'' chassis were plated full length top and bottom for added strength, but apparently in the last couple of years Rover ,in their program of downgrading everything on Defenders stopped doing that.

The throughdrive centre axle differential concerns me a little. Is it just an additional bolt on transfercase with 2 outlets or do they reconfigure the differential itself like some British conversions ? If it is the latter then I would be very worried about durability. 6x6 Aust mainly convert Nissans and Toyotas which have big strong diffs, so they may not be aware of just how fragile the Rover diff is. Can they adapt a Salisbury for the middle too?
Bill.

[110 TUFF]

ok, turnning the beast wont be a big worry because i wont be on tight tracks. if i start straight up with a 130, i dont have to do more costly body work to a 110 and the 130 will be as factory.center of hub to center of hub measurement will be between 950mm and 1050mm.

he has just done one for a fella in brisbane and maybe able to check it out, i would rather the salsbury for the center as well, but as you know the new td5 have a rangie rear. yes he can use a sailsbury.

ohh, cant find a good td5 with low enough kays. 2002-2003 models with about 50 -80 thousand on the clock they want 39K for. i can get a brand new spanker for about 46K.

he is currently trialing these for the US armed forces as well as in other countries. he is also starting to make the 6x6 setup in a kit form as well for mining companies. plus he has just possibly won a tender for supplying the australian armed forces as well.

Drew

[110 TUFF]

Oh bob also knows rovers realy well, he a good mate of Mal Storeys.

[ISUZUROVER]

What Bill and John have said has some merit - about the 110 being a better base for the conversion.

A 130 Dual Cab should bolt straight on to a 110 Chassis (and if you have a wagon all you need is the 130 roof and back section). You already have a 110 you are happy with. For about the same money you could do the conversion to your 110, have 2 salisbury axles, and bolt in a 2.8 TGV Powerstroke (stroked 300TDi made by international trucks) - which has all the benefits of the TD5 (and more) but with the simplicity of a 300TDi.

The 2.8 powerstroke is about $9K I recall, and you could recoup a lot of that by selling your 300TDi.

So 9K for engine, 1-1.5K for a 2nd salisbury and 1.5-2K for dual cab conversion bits. (plus 6x6 conversion costs).

And doing it this way you might as well also strip the 110 down in the process and do the galvanising.

[uninformed]

drew, something else for thought. the gearing may want to be lowered. as you will be heavier, lower gearing will help and having more traction will be able to use this gearing. the perentie 6x6 had a low of 66-1 with 750-16's. running 4.11's and a 30%low range kit will give you about this. you could evevn go to the 4.75's, the sals shouldn't be a problem but the front may be a bit marginal. make sure you let the guys building this know what final size tyres you will want as this will have to be taken into account for the distance between middle and rear axle. hope it all comes to fruition. cheers, Serg