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Over Heating TD42 (Tried Everything)
Over Heating TD42 (Tried Everything)
I got a Turboed (Aftermarket) GQ 4.2 Diesel. Running bout 11psi.
I cant seem to stop it from overheating when i'm towing my race car
(about 1800kg). It doesnt just get hot towing up a hill, its on flat land too. I've tried everything, everyone has suggested but to no avail.
Here's a list-
-Twin EF Thermo's on a Temp switch and override switch
-Genuine Nissan Thermostat
-Aftermarket oil cooler
-Tripleflow radiator (Aussie Desert Coolers)
-New radiator cap and hoses etc..
-Falcon spring in bottom hose.
-GU bonnet scoop to try force the hot air out.
-New water Pump
-Checked the temp gauge- ok
-Took the front plate off the injector pump to see if any of the gears were loose or damaged- ok
-Injector pump checked out by professional
-Replaced all the oil lines to the turbo and cooler.
Thats about all i can think of for now.
I'm getting it checked out next week to see if its advancing or not and also getting an intercooler made for it.
Any other ideas????
Thanks
I cant seem to stop it from overheating when i'm towing my race car
(about 1800kg). It doesnt just get hot towing up a hill, its on flat land too. I've tried everything, everyone has suggested but to no avail.
Here's a list-
-Twin EF Thermo's on a Temp switch and override switch
-Genuine Nissan Thermostat
-Aftermarket oil cooler
-Tripleflow radiator (Aussie Desert Coolers)
-New radiator cap and hoses etc..
-Falcon spring in bottom hose.
-GU bonnet scoop to try force the hot air out.
-New water Pump
-Checked the temp gauge- ok
-Took the front plate off the injector pump to see if any of the gears were loose or damaged- ok
-Injector pump checked out by professional
-Replaced all the oil lines to the turbo and cooler.
Thats about all i can think of for now.
I'm getting it checked out next week to see if its advancing or not and also getting an intercooler made for it.
Any other ideas????
Thanks
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
no not running an intercooler yet, i believe it has something to do with it not advancing up which is why im getting the timing light on to it. I forgot to say that it also has a snorkel, K&N filter, and 3 inch exhaust with a high flow muffler...
Can you still buy those exhaust temp sensors and displays, ive been told about them but havn't seen them anywhere?
Can you still buy those exhaust temp sensors and displays, ive been told about them but havn't seen them anywhere?
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
Re: Over Heating TD42 (Tried Everything)
removed the NISSAN thing off the grill? it blocks about 15/17% of air flow.
spotties infront of grill?
what turbo kit is it, and when did the overheating start? When the turbo was fixed?
Cracked Head?
spotties infront of grill?
what turbo kit is it, and when did the overheating start? When the turbo was fixed?
Cracked Head?
Already removed the Nissan Badge and the spotties....made no diff...put them back on.
Its an AIT (Air Induction Technology? I Think) I've had no problems ever with it. I've never had the turbo off it, let alone fixed. Car has done 270k, serviced every 5000km It started doing it after i took it to a mates house about 3 months ago to tow him out of his dam.
I dont think its a cracked head, not using water, keeping pressure, oil is clean (normal diesel oil) and it still drives like it always has. Just runs up around 3/4 to hot when towing day or night, it only goes down when the car goes down hill and it not boosting up.
Its an AIT (Air Induction Technology? I Think) I've had no problems ever with it. I've never had the turbo off it, let alone fixed. Car has done 270k, serviced every 5000km It started doing it after i took it to a mates house about 3 months ago to tow him out of his dam.
I dont think its a cracked head, not using water, keeping pressure, oil is clean (normal diesel oil) and it still drives like it always has. Just runs up around 3/4 to hot when towing day or night, it only goes down when the car goes down hill and it not boosting up.
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
Does it have airconditioning??
I wonder if the bonnet scoop is the problem, ceating a high pressure area in the engine bay when it should be a low pressure area, thus preventing the correct volum of air from passing through the radiator. Removing the steel plate/guard from under the bottom tank of the radiator will also have this affect.
Just a possibility
I wonder if the bonnet scoop is the problem, ceating a high pressure area in the engine bay when it should be a low pressure area, thus preventing the correct volum of air from passing through the radiator. Removing the steel plate/guard from under the bottom tank of the radiator will also have this affect.
Just a possibility
The Radiator has been in there for about six months, it was a reco one from Aussie Desert Coolers in Melb. Boost shouldnt be the problem cos it has been like that ever since i had the car (1 1/2 yrs) it has only just started doing it. Which tells me somthing has come loose or broken or come off or something??? I put the bonnet scoop on about 3-4 weeks ago and it still made no difference, it cant be that. I dont believe fitting an intercooler will fix the problem either, it makes no difference if im towing on a freezing cold night or a warm day. The car looses a bit of power as the temp rises, not much though, only because the intake temp has prob gone up with it.
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
I havent been through mud/bog holes for ages (8 months or so) but i often like to throw it round a wet paddock every now and then. The radiator is clean as a whistle, we have pulled it out twice and maybe a few leaves and bugs but thats about it.
There is a shroud around the fans, the original EF shroud, we covered up a few little gaps around the edges so it can only drag air through the radiator. Anything i seem to try doesnt do jack to it, it just keeps getting hot.
There is a shroud around the fans, the original EF shroud, we covered up a few little gaps around the edges so it can only drag air through the radiator. Anything i seem to try doesnt do jack to it, it just keeps getting hot.
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
I had a problem with one of these ages ago tried every thing it turned out some one had played with the fueling to stop it smoking and it was running way to lean ..when you plant the go pedal do you get a puff of smoke
84 SWB Pajero 3.8 V6 holden motor & 700R4 trans,rear ARB locker,rollcage,32x11.5 simex ex treackers,pto winch,twin snorkles,
kiwipajero wrote:I had a problem with one of these ages ago tried every thing it turned out some one had played with the fueling to stop it smoking and it was running way to lean ..when you plant the go pedal do you get a puff of smoke
Yeah I was going to ask the same thing. Have you had it dynoed or fiddled with the fuel pump at all around the same time it started running hot? If not the maybe it's time you pulled the head off and make sure there are no cracks or blockages. Haveing done 270k or so I'd be surprised if it's a clean head. Sometimes a normal cooling system flush won't dislodge a blockage. Just some idea's.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
overheating
the problem will be overfueling. With a turbo diesel when you give it to much fuel it will overheat and run rich but will have plenty of power. Under fueled and it will run lean and have no power. The exact opposite to a petrol. As little as an 1/8 of a turn on the pump can make a big difference. Get it dyno- tuned before you do end up with a crackd head or worse.. A workmate had an 80 series he had turboed and had a problem with water getting blown out the overflow. Motor ran fine used no oil or water (unless it blew out the overflow) and showed no signs of cracked head or blown head gasket. anyway pulled the head off and every pot was cracked between the ports + fine cracks as well 25 in total (new head was fitted).
Good luck
Good luck
Thanks for your ideas, i dont believe its anything to do with the engine now. My dad was a diesel mechanic, he fiddled with the injector pump after it started to overheat, it still made no differance.
A mate who knows a guy that fixes radiators told me that the place i bought my radiator from does a pretty dodgy soldering job sometimes, and the baffles inside the radiator can come loose and block the radiator.
He has had to fix quite a few of his jobs previously....
So i will pull it out and stick the orig back in and get the "Triple Flow" pulled to bits and checked out!!!
Thanks guys, I will keep you posted!!
A mate who knows a guy that fixes radiators told me that the place i bought my radiator from does a pretty dodgy soldering job sometimes, and the baffles inside the radiator can come loose and block the radiator.
He has had to fix quite a few of his jobs previously....
So i will pull it out and stick the orig back in and get the "Triple Flow" pulled to bits and checked out!!!
Thanks guys, I will keep you posted!!
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
Have a Diesel Injection shop like BJ Diesel Injection in Dandenong check out the injection pump and injection timing. As has been prevously said, over fueling is usually the cause of overheating. Then get the turbo set up properly on a Dyno. My Safari Turbo was done this way when it was fitted, and have had no problems with over heating.
Nick
Nick
You need to READ (aux gauge, temp probe to multimeter etc) the temp it is running at if youre concerned. Nissan gauge is optimistic. Between the inner white lines is what Nissan once stated is ok.
That looks like between 7 and 11 on a clock face.
I aways got worried though when mine reached 10 .
Bazzle
That looks like between 7 and 11 on a clock face.
I aways got worried though when mine reached 10 .
Bazzle
Just a thought, you are over heating when towing but what about everyday driving, does it overheat then. If not its as simple as you are loading up the motor when you are towing. Remember the bigger the load you carry the harder you have to work the motor, get a boost gauge and a Pyrometer to keep an eye on you exhaust temps.
P.S. Get the intercooler running 11psi boost without one is a receipe for disaster.
P.S. Get the intercooler running 11psi boost without one is a receipe for disaster.
I have already had a multimetre hooked up to it, and it all seems pretty good (97 degrees at about 3/4) so i think thats working ok...
Another guy my dad spoke to said they sometimes have a problem with the head gasket not letting enough water to cylinders 5 and 6. Still chasing it up.
I'm still waiting for the intercooler, hopefully comes today or tommorow.
Another guy my dad spoke to said they sometimes have a problem with the head gasket not letting enough water to cylinders 5 and 6. Still chasing it up.
I'm still waiting for the intercooler, hopefully comes today or tommorow.
GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4" spring, 2" body, 35" ET2's...etc
GutSquisher Media wrote:Just a thought, you are over heating when towing but what about everyday driving, does it overheat then. If not its as simple as you are loading up the motor when you are towing. Remember the bigger the load you carry the harder you have to work the motor, get a boost gauge and a Pyrometer to keep an eye on you exhaust temps.
P.S. Get the intercooler running 11psi boost without one is a receipe for disaster.
im with guts on this one 11psi with no intercooler will be trouble
i bet if u rip the head off all the precombustion chambers are fubar
definately get urself a pyro and boost and aftermarket temp guage
H( * )( * )NZ loves B( * )( * )BIES
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
Most gauge manufactures make make exhuast pyro's.
VDO make a nice 50mm guage, you will have to weld a fitting into the exhuast to put the probe in.
http://www.aisat.com.au/vdoautomotive.html#exhausttemp
VDO make a nice 50mm guage, you will have to weld a fitting into the exhuast to put the probe in.
http://www.aisat.com.au/vdoautomotive.html#exhausttemp
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