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What Will Break First?
What Will Break First?
Am about to start putting zook back together for rego.It is going to be very seriously over powered,thus will be upgrading the driveline components as they disintergrate.Its a wt lwb with a modded series 5 13bt good for around 350 hp.Has a series 5 gearbox and the rest is all zook albeit with locked rear.Just wondering what will need replacing and in perhaps what order?It will only be used for the odd jimkana and a bit of street cruising.Thinking of hilux diffs and an mk tcase.Any one got any thoughts?
Were the mods approved by an engineer? If not (and I seriously doubt you have), I think you've got absolutely no hope of getting it past the pits/RWC, let alone registered.
Point 1. Chassis not really strong enough to take the torque.
Point 2. What will go first??? With 350hp probably everything at the same time. What do you think will break in a drivtrain that is designed for 50-80 hp?? Do you really want to be in the car when she blows??
Point 3. Has the suspension been modified to take the extra torque that will be transmitted across it?
In short, I think you spent your money in all the ricer stuff withou any real understanding of what you were doing.
You now have a collection of parts that will (more than likely) NEVER be registered.
Point 1. Chassis not really strong enough to take the torque.
Point 2. What will go first??? With 350hp probably everything at the same time. What do you think will break in a drivtrain that is designed for 50-80 hp?? Do you really want to be in the car when she blows??
Point 3. Has the suspension been modified to take the extra torque that will be transmitted across it?
In short, I think you spent your money in all the ricer stuff withou any real understanding of what you were doing.
You now have a collection of parts that will (more than likely) NEVER be registered.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
GaryInOz wrote:Were the mods approved by an engineer? If not (and I seriously doubt you have), I think you've got absolutely no hope of getting it past the pits/RWC, let alone registered.
Point 1. Chassis not really strong enough to take the torque.
Point 2. What will go first??? With 350hp probably everything at the same time. What do you think will break in a drivtrain that is designed for 50-80 hp?? Do you really want to be in the car when she blows??
Point 3. Has the suspension been modified to take the extra torque that will be transmitted across it?
In short, I think you spent your money in all the ricer stuff withou any real understanding of what you were doing.
You now have a collection of parts that will (more than likely) NEVER be registered.
Well, aren't you a ray of sunsine Gary
Peter.
What will break first?
For most of us it would be the bank balance. Because with that much power as soon as you replace a part with something stronger the next step down the line will break (shatter, tear apart, explode and embed itself in your ass).
There is a lot to be said for well thought out engineering, you might aswell strap a firecracker to your back a la Wylie Coyote from Road Runner.
For most of us it would be the bank balance. Because with that much power as soon as you replace a part with something stronger the next step down the line will break (shatter, tear apart, explode and embed itself in your ass).
There is a lot to be said for well thought out engineering, you might aswell strap a firecracker to your back a la Wylie Coyote from Road Runner.
'89 SWB Soft Top, 6.5:1 Calmini gears, rear Lockright, 31s, pwr steering. 1.3 16vmpfi 1300 going in
Red_Zook wrote:i destroy diffs with a standard zook motor,
just go lux diffs
and shafts
under hard acelaration they tend to fold the diffs forward and snap unis.
Get a SPUA
mock
My photographic Art http://www.redbubble.com/people/ljxtreem
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
GaryInOz wrote:Were the mods approved by an engineer? If not (and I seriously doubt you have), I think you've got absolutely no hope of getting it past the pits/RWC, let alone registered.
Point 1. Chassis not really strong enough to take the torque.
Point 2. What will go first??? With 350hp probably everything at the same time. What do you think will break in a drivtrain that is designed for 50-80 hp?? Do you really want to be in the car when she blows??
Point 3. Has the suspension been modified to take the extra torque that will be transmitted across it?
In short, I think you spent your money in all the ricer stuff withou any real understanding of what you were doing.
You now have a collection of parts that will (more than likely) NEVER be registered.
Bahahaha , You,ll get it engineered in NSW ,Melbinights are just jellous
Especaily if he runs the hilux diffs ,
For starters Big beef the transfer mounts , and when you set the rear up use some traction bars or an A frame setup.
As mock said if you stay spring under you will get less problems with
the diff action .
Spending on big gears for the zook transfer in your application i think would be risky , For a rotary i would be looking at a much larger transfer , striaght off although the tourque is simaler down low to other motors swaping cogs with a bit of niose on with a rotor creates big shock loads.
JMO.
Larry
The car has been engineered with a non turbo motor,so just added turbo,manifold etc.Can always stiffen chasis if not up to hp,dont want to have to keep replacing things.Surely with such small rubber the loads will be kept to a minimum,sort of,.I thought about rockhoppers etc but dont really want any more reduction with this sort of horsepower.Would a surf rear end be the go are these diffs the same as leaf sprung ones.I am concerned about axle rap....
Were the mods approved by an engineer? If not (and I seriously doubt you have), I think you've got absolutely no hope of getting it past the pits/RWC, let alone registered.
Point 1. Chassis not really strong enough to take the torque.
Point 2. What will go first??? With 350hp probably everything at the same time. What do you think will break in a drivtrain that is designed for 50-80 hp?? Do you really want to be in the car when she blows??
Point 3. Has the suspension been modified to take the extra torque that will be transmitted across it?
In short, I think you spent your money in all the ricer stuff withou any real understanding of what you were doing.
You now have a collection of parts that will (more than likely) NEVER be registered.
And your point is? You yourself bought a KIA, how much have you done on that thing now? It still has IFS travel, no gearing or lockers but you're going to spend more money on putting patrol stuff under it. Would have been cheaper to just go and buy a patrol or maybe a cruiser (military use them too)
I think what your statement should be is:
You've spent a rediculous amount of coin on the engine, now go get some more cash, buy some steel make a bomb proof transfer case bucket with strong mounts, get some really super duty tail shafts made, a track bar and some BIG ASS diffs to handle the horsepower(go MQ coz there stronger than Hilux SHIAT)
Reason behind the statement:
Being sensible is boring, i see no sense in that.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
If and when you blow the drive train you may want to look at bolting the 13b up to a mazda(ford) 2.6 gearbox and t/case . With the right year gearbox bits the bellhousing is ment to bolt up . This would get you a lot more strength than a zuk part .
I would notspend any $$$ on gears etc for the standard stuff until it has lasted a while .
Chris
I would notspend any $$$ on gears etc for the standard stuff until it has lasted a while .
Chris
The diffs will be first on the upgrade list.
stock tranfer case gears are pretty strong,I haven't broken a standard transfer case in about 7 years with around 200 hp & probably more torque than the rotor.
Try lux diffs with 4.8s & your 30's,should be a decent start as the rotor won't mind to rev.
just my 2c good luck zooks are good fun with some power
stock tranfer case gears are pretty strong,I haven't broken a standard transfer case in about 7 years with around 200 hp & probably more torque than the rotor.
Try lux diffs with 4.8s & your 30's,should be a decent start as the rotor won't mind to rev.
just my 2c good luck zooks are good fun with some power
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