G'day, i've managed to convince another of my mates that Zooks are the best 4b's out there, and he's buying one. He's found one in decent condition with a few mods for the right price....we just have a couple of questions...
It's an '84 1litre.....how hard is it to do a 1.3 conversion? Are the blocks the same?...ie: is it just like changing a 253 -> 308 (everything is identical...just the internals that are slightly different)??? (I know the 1litre has a better ratio xfer...)
The gearbox has just about had it....how much is a decent 2nd hand 1.3 5speed? (are the 1.3/1litre 5 speeds the same??)
Finally, it's a narrow track..What has to be changed to put widetrack diffs in? Is it just re-welding the spring hangers, or is there a fair bit of stuffing around involved....How much (ballpark) are widetrack diffs? How much does it cost to do a hilux diff conversion, and how much stuffing around is it?
Thanks for the help guys..
Paul
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Suzuki mods
Hi Paul,
I don't really know many of the answers to what you are after there, however, i could suggest that you should come along to one of the suzuki 4wd club meetings in melbourne (where i gather you are situated) and someone(s) there will be able to answer all of you questions...
check out the club website for more details:
http://www.suzuki-4wd-club.rockcrawler.com
next meeting will be on wednesday 14th may - AMRA hall - wills st glen iris. 8pm.
cheers mate,
Greg
I don't really know many of the answers to what you are after there, however, i could suggest that you should come along to one of the suzuki 4wd club meetings in melbourne (where i gather you are situated) and someone(s) there will be able to answer all of you questions...
check out the club website for more details:
http://www.suzuki-4wd-club.rockcrawler.com
next meeting will be on wednesday 14th may - AMRA hall - wills st glen iris. 8pm.
cheers mate,
Greg
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
must have been cheap, or sounds like he should have just bought a widetrack 1.3 to start with 
1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra, Lock-Rite Rear, SPOA, 2" Body Lift, Climax shackles, Rancho's,
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
Re: Suzuki mods
pjhsv wrote:G'day, i've managed to convince another of my mates that Zooks are the best 4b's out there, and he's buying one. He's found one in decent condition with a few mods for the right price....we just have a couple of questions...
It's an '84 1litre.....how hard is it to do a 1.3 conversion? Are the blocks the same?...ie: is it just like changing a 253 -> 308 (everything is identical...just the internals that are slightly different)??? (I know the 1litre has a better ratio xfer...)
The gearbox has just about had it....how much is a decent 2nd hand 1.3 5speed? (are the 1.3/1litre 5 speeds the same??)
Finally, it's a narrow track..What has to be changed to put widetrack diffs in? Is it just re-welding the spring hangers, or is there a fair bit of stuffing around involved....How much (ballpark) are widetrack diffs? How much does it cost to do a hilux diff conversion, and how much stuffing around is it?
Thanks for the help guys..
Paul
Paul
I have an 83 model which i did the 1.3 conversion on.
The blocks are different and gearbox's are different also.
The conversion it self is not all that hard just a little fiddley.
As for the wide track diffs all i did when i first started it, you have to move the spring perches in to suit the narrow track.
I then changed my mind and went all out with the help of a mate and did a full coil conversion.
As for cost's, approx 1200 for motor and box (possible exchange basis from a wrecker.)
And about a 1000 for the diffs.
Hilux conversion will vary heaps on if you can find a pair at the right price.
If you are interested i will have my wide track diffs up for grabs shortly as i'm doing the hilux diff conversion next week.
With all the parts it comes down to how well you can bargain with your wrecking yard.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Jamie.
coil conversion
Fill us in on your coil conversion
Damo
At the moment it's a little ruff,
We started by completely removing both diffs and springs so we could work out the plan.
We ended up using standard vitara rear coils and lower trailing arms to do everthing.
The front is 4 linked and rear is setup with an A-Frame.
When we first did the conversion, all the trailing arms were standard length,which pushed the front diff forward about 2".the rear stayed pretty close to the same position.
The first test's with the zook were interesting to say the least.It supprised me how well it worked and how much further over on a side angle it would go.(we did find it's limit though.)
Since then and few test's and few comps we have lengthened the wheel base by 8" in the back by making a new A-Frame and new trailing arms.
Now the departure angle is 90 degrees and it feels so much more stable going up rock steps.
I will be doing a hilux diff conversion next week so i will take some pics and post them for all to see.
Jamie
At the moment it's a little ruff,
We started by completely removing both diffs and springs so we could work out the plan.
We ended up using standard vitara rear coils and lower trailing arms to do everthing.
The front is 4 linked and rear is setup with an A-Frame.
When we first did the conversion, all the trailing arms were standard length,which pushed the front diff forward about 2".the rear stayed pretty close to the same position.
The first test's with the zook were interesting to say the least.It supprised me how well it worked and how much further over on a side angle it would go.(we did find it's limit though.)
Since then and few test's and few comps we have lengthened the wheel base by 8" in the back by making a new A-Frame and new trailing arms.
Now the departure angle is 90 degrees and it feels so much more stable going up rock steps.
I will be doing a hilux diff conversion next week so i will take some pics and post them for all to see.
Jamie
Sounds pretty similar to the latest incarnation of my plan. I have an a-frame and trailing arms from a range rover that i'll be putting under the rear of mine. The a-frame will stay standard but the trailing arms will be lengthened and i'll probably kink them as well.
The front has been a bit of a hassle to sort but i think it's going to work out, I do need to take a few more measurements after thinking things through (again!!!) this week). I want to go with a 5 link up front and keep the links above the bottom of the chassis rail (this will keep the belly nice and flat which will be good for sliding over stuff, really good when only running 32" rubber). Links will be equal length & parallel with a panhard to locate the axle laterally. I'm running narrow track axles and plan to have the links attach to the axle in line with where the leaf springs used to sit. Having the links attach to the chassis on the inside of each rail means the links will need to be dog-legged.
At this stage it looks like i'll run linear rate coils, prolly about 175lb/in front & rear. Rear will have less weight on it but will be inboard further than the fronts so i'm hoping this evens out the travel front-to-rear. It might take a little trial and error to get this right though.
Hmm, i think somewhere along the line we might have kinda hijacked this thread
The front has been a bit of a hassle to sort but i think it's going to work out, I do need to take a few more measurements after thinking things through (again!!!) this week). I want to go with a 5 link up front and keep the links above the bottom of the chassis rail (this will keep the belly nice and flat which will be good for sliding over stuff, really good when only running 32" rubber). Links will be equal length & parallel with a panhard to locate the axle laterally. I'm running narrow track axles and plan to have the links attach to the axle in line with where the leaf springs used to sit. Having the links attach to the chassis on the inside of each rail means the links will need to be dog-legged.
At this stage it looks like i'll run linear rate coils, prolly about 175lb/in front & rear. Rear will have less weight on it but will be inboard further than the fronts so i'm hoping this evens out the travel front-to-rear. It might take a little trial and error to get this right though.
Hmm, i think somewhere along the line we might have kinda hijacked this thread
Damo
If you have questions PM me and i'll c if i can help in answer's.
Watch out with the bends in your trailing arms, especially in the front, that it does'nt weaken them to much.
If you can get it, I would recommend RACETECH tube for your links.
It's pretty expensive but super strong.
Can you put some pics up when your done?
Jamie
If you have questions PM me and i'll c if i can help in answer's.
Watch out with the bends in your trailing arms, especially in the front, that it does'nt weaken them to much.
If you can get it, I would recommend RACETECH tube for your links.
It's pretty expensive but super strong.
Can you put some pics up when your done?
Jamie
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