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land rover discovery
Moderator: Micka
land rover discovery
Hey I am looking at a 1990 to 1995 land rover discovery. I see they are in the price range up to about 15 000. Just wondering if there are any problems with these cars and how their autos hold up. Will be looking at a small lift and some bigger mud tyres if I get one, Just some opinions on these cars as I know nobody who has had one
have hundreds of mods planned by the year 2020
Diesel or V8?
Generally they are pretty good trucks. The ZF's are pretty reliable.
The V8's are good but really love fuel. The bottom end is good for 400-500k but the cam (and possibly heads) generally needs doing at 150-200k
The Tdi's are pretty good too and quite tweakable (great fuel economy). Make sure a 300Tdi (94 on) has had the timing belt updates. Some 300Tdi's had faulty heads (metal too soft), but most of these should have already have been replaced.
Some of the plastic bits can break/rattle when they get old.
Generally they are pretty good trucks. The ZF's are pretty reliable.
The V8's are good but really love fuel. The bottom end is good for 400-500k but the cam (and possibly heads) generally needs doing at 150-200k
The Tdi's are pretty good too and quite tweakable (great fuel economy). Make sure a 300Tdi (94 on) has had the timing belt updates. Some 300Tdi's had faulty heads (metal too soft), but most of these should have already have been replaced.
Some of the plastic bits can break/rattle when they get old.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Ive had a 96 disco tdi for a couple of weeks now. All good so far except for a water leak which is yet to be sorted.
Economy is great and sweet to drive. Heard the auto is much stronger than the manual so went that way. Mines got a 140k on it and still feels new car tight. Bit wary of electric everything but time will tell.
Economy is great and sweet to drive. Heard the auto is much stronger than the manual so went that way. Mines got a 140k on it and still feels new car tight. Bit wary of electric everything but time will tell.
My pick for the S1 Discos, 3.9 EFI and ZF auto combo. Not furgal by any means in the fuel department, but with regular servicing like most tings they will lasts for a long time yet. The tdi's I'm not overly knowledgeable about, better left to someone here who knows there shit about them
The ZF autos are expensive to rebuild, but should lastt around the 250-300K mark with reguar servicing and not too much off-road abuse. Mine went at 260K with plenty of off-road abuse, a good innings considering how I drive it
there are plenty to choose from with measerly amount of k's on the clock for $15K. After you look at a few you'll get the idea on what the good, bad and ugly ones are like so to speak.
good luck with it. Discos are a great value for money buy ATM.
Trav
The ZF autos are expensive to rebuild, but should lastt around the 250-300K mark with reguar servicing and not too much off-road abuse. Mine went at 260K with plenty of off-road abuse, a good innings considering how I drive it
there are plenty to choose from with measerly amount of k's on the clock for $15K. After you look at a few you'll get the idea on what the good, bad and ugly ones are like so to speak.
good luck with it. Discos are a great value for money buy ATM.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
I've had my 1995 3.9 manual for about 18 months now. Got 203 000k's on the clock and runs like a dream. She's got a couple of electrical quirks but nothing too serious.
Great vehicle, only complaint is the fuel consumption. You learn to live with it though.
Goes pretty much anywhere, and I use it as a daily driver, around 300-400k's a week. Treat her rough in the bush and she's hasn't let me down once.
Great vehicle, only complaint is the fuel consumption. You learn to live with it though.
Goes pretty much anywhere, and I use it as a daily driver, around 300-400k's a week. Treat her rough in the bush and she's hasn't let me down once.
I've had a 92 V8 auto for about 6 months now and love it. A lot of looking before I found one that hadn't been abused ie: absolutley straight, no rust, great interior all for $5000 - downside: 250000kms (but all long distance country miles). Be prepared to spend a bit of money if it hadn't been touched. I spent about another $3000 tidying up the usual things such as steering box, waterpump, suspension bushes, alternator, brakes etc but have since done about 25000kms with not a problem. Be prepared for it to use a bit (a lot!!) of fuel in city traffic but it is a lot better on the highway AND way better than my old 6 cylinder 109!!
John
John
yeah, most vehicles are like that though.
on the fuel useage side of things - on a trip to queensland last year we were getting between 12-15litres per 100kms and that was with the motor running rich too.
on the fuel useage side of things - on a trip to queensland last year we were getting between 12-15litres per 100kms and that was with the motor running rich too.
Last edited by smac on Sat May 07, 2005 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
disco95 wrote:I was reading an article in LROI magazine about the land rover V8. The experts say they much prefer long distance driving to short hops, in fact it actually says that a counter on the drivers door would be more useful than the odometer.
You mean on the fuel filler door !
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
The V8i is smooth, uses $hit loads of fuel and is pretty gutless. But slightly modified and a descent exhaust made all the difference. I'm on LPG and I would NEVER own one that isn't.
Unless you're a Saudi Sheik, average at LEAST 20L/100km average driving. Maybe 17L/100 on the highway.
I've had mine since Jan, and average about 500-800kms/week, and am quite happy. But there are some things you will find (other than the usual rover probs)
1. They are a bitch for suspension/body lifts
2. Axles are weak and need upgrating
3. 4WD shop couldn't care less - it's not a GQ or GU, so it's too different
4. Only come with small LPG tanks 55L
I'd wouldn't pay more than $11K for a 95 unless it is mint (or a LS/ES) and/or has heaps of accessories. Tdi will be $2k more.
The auto is smooth. But one word of advise, have it serviced by Land Rover or a Land Rover specialist. It really makes all the difference, and try to only buy a landie that has been serviced in the same manner.
Buy it, have some frustrations and have fun! The Discovery is a beautiful vehicle to drive and if far more comfortable and relaxing than 80 series or GU/GQ.
CYA
Unless you're a Saudi Sheik, average at LEAST 20L/100km average driving. Maybe 17L/100 on the highway.
I've had mine since Jan, and average about 500-800kms/week, and am quite happy. But there are some things you will find (other than the usual rover probs)
1. They are a bitch for suspension/body lifts
2. Axles are weak and need upgrating
3. 4WD shop couldn't care less - it's not a GQ or GU, so it's too different
4. Only come with small LPG tanks 55L
I'd wouldn't pay more than $11K for a 95 unless it is mint (or a LS/ES) and/or has heaps of accessories. Tdi will be $2k more.
The auto is smooth. But one word of advise, have it serviced by Land Rover or a Land Rover specialist. It really makes all the difference, and try to only buy a landie that has been serviced in the same manner.
Buy it, have some frustrations and have fun! The Discovery is a beautiful vehicle to drive and if far more comfortable and relaxing than 80 series or GU/GQ.
CYA
moorey wrote:All that aside, I am yet to be convinced that RUFF is anything other than a maniacal arse hat.
discoservice
Hey Phippsey,
Im in Hervey Bay as well, was wondering if youve used the local landrover guys andersons. Ive got a few things that need sorting on my newly acquired 96 tdi.
Their prices for second hand seem a lot better than britishoffroad on the Sunshine Coast so far. Any one else in the bay youd recoomend?
pm me if you like
Im in Hervey Bay as well, was wondering if youve used the local landrover guys andersons. Ive got a few things that need sorting on my newly acquired 96 tdi.
Their prices for second hand seem a lot better than britishoffroad on the Sunshine Coast so far. Any one else in the bay youd recoomend?
pm me if you like
4WD Monthly Magazine did a good article about 2 - 3 years ago on buying used Discoverys - what to look out for etc. Might be worth calling them and seeing if you can get a copy of it.
I have heard people claim that from price point of view TDi vs V8, about 20,000km / year is the break even point. Ie you will pay a couple of thou more for the equivalent TDi and it costs more for scheduled maintenace and repairs, but mine ('94 300TDi manual) always seems to return a consistant 11L/100km (even towing or including heavy low range work). Therefore some will suggest if you do less than about 20,000km / year you're better off with a V8, and more than 20,000km / year a TDi - purely from a cost perspective. I have not however, seen the figures to back up the 20,000km claim.
Other considerations can push you quickly one way or the other. If you want to a bit of long range / outback touring - it's gotta be the TDi. The V8 is just too heavy on the juice, and with the same sized fuel tank has about 1/2 - 2/3 of the range. Plus any fuel bar diesel becomes pretty hard to find the more remote you get, and diesel is far safer in jerry cans etc etc. Then you need to consider the typical auto vs manual and diesel vs petrol for engine braking and low range crawling etc - dependant on the type of off-roading you like to do.
You will need to be more patient with the TDi though - it'll keep up with traffic but it's no rocket ship. You'll soon learn to drive it to keep the revs up and turbo on boost, otherwise it'll take you all day - it suffers pretty bad turbo lag. (The torque converter in the auto masks turbo lag pretty well though).
A 60mm suspension lift will go in quite easily, much more than that and you'll start running into some troubles and big $$. I run 2 sets of tyres - standard size (29.5") BFG ATs on road and 32" Goodyear MTRs off road. You'll need to cut the rear guards to get 32's on, and much bigger you'll need a fair bit more work. The 32's are about the only thing I've found that affects the fuel consumption - even after allowing for speedo error with the bigger tyres you can bank on 14 - 16L/100km with 32's. They also sap the power - it's neck and neck off the lights and up hills with normally aspirated diesel cruisers and patrols with the 32's on.
Despite being aluminium, Rovers do have plenty of steel in them - all the structural bits such as chassis, through the pillars, door frames etc - so have a look for any sign of beach work, and if you find it walk away - there are heaps more to choose from. Second hand Discovery's are a buyers market, so don't accept anything you aren't completely happy with.
Good luck,
I have heard people claim that from price point of view TDi vs V8, about 20,000km / year is the break even point. Ie you will pay a couple of thou more for the equivalent TDi and it costs more for scheduled maintenace and repairs, but mine ('94 300TDi manual) always seems to return a consistant 11L/100km (even towing or including heavy low range work). Therefore some will suggest if you do less than about 20,000km / year you're better off with a V8, and more than 20,000km / year a TDi - purely from a cost perspective. I have not however, seen the figures to back up the 20,000km claim.
Other considerations can push you quickly one way or the other. If you want to a bit of long range / outback touring - it's gotta be the TDi. The V8 is just too heavy on the juice, and with the same sized fuel tank has about 1/2 - 2/3 of the range. Plus any fuel bar diesel becomes pretty hard to find the more remote you get, and diesel is far safer in jerry cans etc etc. Then you need to consider the typical auto vs manual and diesel vs petrol for engine braking and low range crawling etc - dependant on the type of off-roading you like to do.
You will need to be more patient with the TDi though - it'll keep up with traffic but it's no rocket ship. You'll soon learn to drive it to keep the revs up and turbo on boost, otherwise it'll take you all day - it suffers pretty bad turbo lag. (The torque converter in the auto masks turbo lag pretty well though).
A 60mm suspension lift will go in quite easily, much more than that and you'll start running into some troubles and big $$. I run 2 sets of tyres - standard size (29.5") BFG ATs on road and 32" Goodyear MTRs off road. You'll need to cut the rear guards to get 32's on, and much bigger you'll need a fair bit more work. The 32's are about the only thing I've found that affects the fuel consumption - even after allowing for speedo error with the bigger tyres you can bank on 14 - 16L/100km with 32's. They also sap the power - it's neck and neck off the lights and up hills with normally aspirated diesel cruisers and patrols with the 32's on.
Despite being aluminium, Rovers do have plenty of steel in them - all the structural bits such as chassis, through the pillars, door frames etc - so have a look for any sign of beach work, and if you find it walk away - there are heaps more to choose from. Second hand Discovery's are a buyers market, so don't accept anything you aren't completely happy with.
Good luck,
Ben
'94 Disco 300 TDi
'94 Disco 300 TDi
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
Ben, experiances on 32s.
If I do 2+2 lift (probs?), should be OK for 33s?
How about power?
What about diff/axle/cv? Do I only need to upgrade the front.
I won't be doing anything too serious but do a fair bit of highway
If I do 2+2 lift (probs?), should be OK for 33s?
How about power?
What about diff/axle/cv? Do I only need to upgrade the front.
I won't be doing anything too serious but do a fair bit of highway
moorey wrote:All that aside, I am yet to be convinced that RUFF is anything other than a maniacal arse hat.
Try having a look at the chart on this link for required mods to fit various tyre sizes:
http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/tires.html
I fitted 235/85/16s (approx 32" nominal diameter), with only ~60mm spring lift. Had to cut the rear edge of the rear guards and roll the rest of the inner lip of the rear guards (bash it flat against the inside of the panel with a wooden mallet). The rolling may sound bad but you can't see a difference unless you're under the car - even then it isn't bad.
It is a little more vauge around dead centre at highway speeds (no castor correction kit), but not too bad.
See my earlier comments for the differences in power and economy. Diff offroad is unbelievable. I used to get hung up on the diffs in bog holes that lesser cars could drive straight through simply because of a little more diff clearance. Not any more.
Be aware that with 235/85/16s, the spare only just fits on the rear door, and only after you have put the nylon washer and slim nut that normally hold the spare cover, onto the studs first to act as spacers - otherwise the tyre rubs on the duco. Any taller and it won't fit on above the rear bumper. 33's - you might need to install a Kaymar rear bar with a swing away carrier or something.
Only other thing I have done on steering etc is reduced the steering stops (now similar turning circle to a Patrol) and stuck on a Maxi Drive Heavy Duty Drag Link - more because this hit the bottom of one of those bog holes and bent too, but with bigger tyres you're probably likely to over stress and bend the OE part.
http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/tires.html
I fitted 235/85/16s (approx 32" nominal diameter), with only ~60mm spring lift. Had to cut the rear edge of the rear guards and roll the rest of the inner lip of the rear guards (bash it flat against the inside of the panel with a wooden mallet). The rolling may sound bad but you can't see a difference unless you're under the car - even then it isn't bad.
It is a little more vauge around dead centre at highway speeds (no castor correction kit), but not too bad.
See my earlier comments for the differences in power and economy. Diff offroad is unbelievable. I used to get hung up on the diffs in bog holes that lesser cars could drive straight through simply because of a little more diff clearance. Not any more.
Be aware that with 235/85/16s, the spare only just fits on the rear door, and only after you have put the nylon washer and slim nut that normally hold the spare cover, onto the studs first to act as spacers - otherwise the tyre rubs on the duco. Any taller and it won't fit on above the rear bumper. 33's - you might need to install a Kaymar rear bar with a swing away carrier or something.
Only other thing I have done on steering etc is reduced the steering stops (now similar turning circle to a Patrol) and stuck on a Maxi Drive Heavy Duty Drag Link - more because this hit the bottom of one of those bog holes and bent too, but with bigger tyres you're probably likely to over stress and bend the OE part.
Ben
'94 Disco 300 TDi
'94 Disco 300 TDi
phippsey wrote:The auto is smooth. But one word of advise, have it serviced by Land Rover or a Land Rover specialist. It really makes all the difference, and try to only buy a landie that has been serviced in the same manner.
The only difference between getting Landrover to service the ZF Auto and getting an Auto shop to do it is the price. The Auto is not servicable other than changing the filter/oil and pan gaskit. There is nothing in them to adjust. They either drive or dont. And when they dont they need to be re-built at great expense.
Having said this i would only buy a disco with an Auto. The manual will end up costing a lot more by the time you re-build it and replace the output shaft. Also be carefull of the Pre'93 models as most of these are only 3.5ltr not 3.9ltr. Im prety sure 94 onwards were all 3.9ltr or deisel.
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
Sorry, RE auto service.
I was referring that I would prefer to only buy a disco that had been serviced by LR or specialist. I wasn't refering to the auto 'box itself, rather the whole packege.
My understanding is the auto box, esp. post 1997 is very very strong
Have fun
I was referring that I would prefer to only buy a disco that had been serviced by LR or specialist. I wasn't refering to the auto 'box itself, rather the whole packege.
My understanding is the auto box, esp. post 1997 is very very strong
Have fun
moorey wrote:All that aside, I am yet to be convinced that RUFF is anything other than a maniacal arse hat.
phippsey wrote:
My understanding is the auto box, esp. post 1997 is very very strong
Have fun
The 4HP22 ZF auto has been used in Rangie/Discos since the 80's (86 in the Rangies and about 91 in the Discos, could be earlier not sure).
Even the P38A 4.0's have the 22 box in them as well as the S2 Disco V8 and td5's (4.6's have the 4HP24 fitted), so they are virually identical and I can't see why the 97 onwards would be atronger, maybe you know something I don't about the ZF's (doesn't surprise me with LR
)
Not trying to be a know-all, but just wondering really
Regards,
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
Where that came from was this guy who's 92 modified I was looking at and he made some comment. However, in retrospect I have remembered that he was talking about the rear diff. Is there any truth in that?
I'm not an expert, this is my first disco.
I'm not an expert, this is my first disco.
moorey wrote:All that aside, I am yet to be convinced that RUFF is anything other than a maniacal arse hat.
I've seen a few articles here and there referring to problems with the TD5 autos reliability. It seems that they don't like to tow heavy loads on a regular basis. As stated, I've read about soem problems in various magazines, and just recently my neighbours TD5 has just crapped its auto after well under 100 000km (I think it's done around 57 000 but can't be certain) This vehicle is only 3 months out of warranty and LR have quoted them $9000 for a new auto, that's just to supply mind you, extra to fit.
He's trying to get them to pay for it, last time I spoke to him (2 or 3 days ago) LR were willing to pay for half.
Any thoughts on this? Has anybody else experienced problems themselves? I tend to take magazine articles with a grain of salt, a lot of them seem to be anti LR.
He's trying to get them to pay for it, last time I spoke to him (2 or 3 days ago) LR were willing to pay for half.
Any thoughts on this? Has anybody else experienced problems themselves? I tend to take magazine articles with a grain of salt, a lot of them seem to be anti LR.
I've got a stock '97 Disco LS 3.9 Auto and haven't had any problems at all with it... all runs good, done 170k - but yep, thirsty... but not as much as my 3.5L Rangy and no where near as thirsty as my old 6cyl Series 3 
[b]EVL44[/b] '89 LR Perentie 110
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