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Transfer case arm tech

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Transfer case arm tech

Post by DeWsE »

Guys have a read that people would like info on transfer case arms so I thought we could write some info in the same place.

Really good idea to fix the transfer case rubbers.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,5027.0.html
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by DeWsE »

[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by DeWsE »

[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by Mudzuki »

Good info

Calmini looks like

Image

Spidertrax looks like

Image

The calmini one is :cool: :cool: :cool: , anyone in australia stock these?
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Post by DeWsE »

M&M engineering stock spidertrax and calmini.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by stumped »

DeWsE wrote:M&M engineering stock spidertrax and calmini.


we've got overkill, snake racing, and impact offroad pimps, why not M&M :D


good tech :armsup:
maybe cut and paste it into one post in the general tech sticky... easier to find and won't disappear off the front page
___,,,,_('o')_,,,,____
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Post by DeWsE »

Transfer case arms need to be braced when you install a 6.1:1 T-case gear. One way to do this is to brace the existing with flat plate. The idea here is to stop the arms from twisting under torque. Another problem associated with the arms is that the stock rubber mount that connects the arm to the chassis brake under load. The bolts do not go through the rubber making the transfer to fall out. It is possible though to take the rubber off these mounts and use a substitute rubber instead with a hole going through the middle of it. Then use an extended bolt to attach the chassis/rubber and arms. I have also been recommended that you use some rubber at both ends of the bolt heads. This should help vibrations through the drive train.

Stumped I will attach this page into the sticky at a later date.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by mud4b »

you could look at mine in the members section... :D
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Post by mud4b »

opps..

forgot no pics on o/l...
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Post by Peter »

Gentlemen i have the issue with the mounts breaking and the arms being to weak for my s3 and am interested in both systems,could anybody give me the contact info for the supplier M&M engineering.
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Post by mud4b »

here we go..
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Post by DeWsE »

Peter wrote:Gentlemen i have the issue with the mounts breaking and the arms being to weak for my s3 and am interested in both systems,could anybody give me the contact info for the supplier M&M engineering.


PM Sean, or visit here for details www.abt4x4.com

He is very helpful!
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Post by nicbeer »

Can someone clarify some things.

I have a NT drover 1.3. The transfer crossmember looks to be welded in. Is is welded in the WT's?

I have the two arms(short and long one separate) but the main one seems to be welded.

Also attached is the poly mount that is talked about, also another random mount.

cheers

Nic
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[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
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Post by Peter »

Thanks Deswe hopefully this solves the prob,every time i load it up i'm waiting for the mount to pop,ruins the ride.
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Post by christover1 »

My mate Joey made this up for another guy in our club.
Just a strengthened original.
PM me if you want to ring him.
He's a Melbournite.

christover
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Post by Shorty40 »

I think I may be needing something along these lines ..........

Any ideas / tips ?
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Post by christover1 »

Shorty40 wrote:I think I may be needing something along these lines ..........

Any ideas / tips ?


that was a good effort :)

It appears that the case splitting was the cause, rather than the arms giving out. The cases don't hold up well to the extra torque of gearing, tyres and power increases.
I'd suggest the t-case mounts that go right round the entire case, that may help hold it together. I forget all the companies that make em, but mud4b makes a good one, I think calmini do, too, and no doubt many others.
christover
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Post by DeWsE »

It's not hard to see how that happened Shortyzook, when the mold is cast the case comes out with fatigue marks.

Recently redzook put some tech up about a after market case, which was alot stronger then the original. if you don't want it to crack again I suggest this should be looked into further.

Will find the link for you

bling bling

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... c&start=30
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
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Post by Peter »

My thanks to deWse for the info on Sean and abt4x4.The spidertrax arms and mounts are in and just got to test them this weekend.Sean was very helpful and the parts were to me in two days , very impressed. :cool:
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