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zaust leak quick fix
Road Ranger
zaust leak quick fix
getting a new zaust put on ASAP, but to pass rego I need to fix a leak at the manifold tomorrow, so, putty? gasket sheet cut to size? anything else I can do, just needs to last for 2 - 3 weeks untill I put the new one in and then I will pull the turbo off and get the manifold faced
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Road Ranger
leaking from the flange, fixed with putty last time and it only lasted 2 weeks, really all I want anyway, but if there is a better way let me knowmkpatrol wrote:Is the manifild cracked or is it leaking fromt the gaskets (port side or flange)?
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Sounds like the gasket (obviously) If putty didnt last long you the only way is to put another gasket. Is the support bracket at the bellhousing still there? If its not then you will get more load on the flange & it will losten or crack right right at the top. Typical Nissan problem. If its cracked it will be righ at the welds under the flange. Are the nuts tight?
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Road Ranger
supports are there, but leak started when I bought and "fixed" it up and get the thing flexing. I am getting a large straight throught system in the next few weeks, and have not driven it since it get bad, BUT rego and a trip to the wattos on sunday is calling me so I am after a temporary fix until I have the time and next months pay cheque in my hand.mkpatrol wrote:Sounds like the gasket (obviously) If putty didnt last long you the only way is to put another gasket. Is the support bracket at the bellhousing still there? If its not then you will get more load on the flange & it will losten or crack right right at the top. Typical Nissan problem. If its cracked it will be righ at the welds under the flange. Are the nuts tight?
Putty will not fox the issue, as the manifold needs to be refaced so as said all I want is a non time consuming cheap 1 trip fix

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Road Ranger
zaust putty from super cheap and yes, myself, have to take the snail off the flange to get the flange to clear the studs on the manifold so I onlu want to do it once hence the wait until the new zaustmkpatrol wrote:What sort of putty did you use? Also are you doing this yourself?
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
What I am going to suggest is bodgy & I would only do it on my own car not a customers car
Go to a reputable parts supplier like Repco, Autopro or Bursons, go to the sealants section. There will be a number of silicone based sealants there, three of the better ones are High temp red, Ultra blue & Ultra Gold (I think), The gold is the highest temp one you can get. Smear this liberally on the gasket surfaces, you will have to remove the pipe, and let it sit overnight to dry properly. This should take up most imperfections as these types of sealants are designed to replace gaskets. The damage would have to be pretty bad for it to not work.
The red or the blue will do if you cannot get the gold but wont be reliable (should last well past the two weeks you want.
Muffler putty & Maniseal are great for slip on style joints but can be unreliable if the surface is not neat.
I have actually replaced gaskets with Ultra Blue, OHC 4.0lt Falcon motors have this annoying little gasket at the front of the head which leaks oil all the time. I just throw it away & place ultra blue & it never leaks again.
I hope this helps.

Go to a reputable parts supplier like Repco, Autopro or Bursons, go to the sealants section. There will be a number of silicone based sealants there, three of the better ones are High temp red, Ultra blue & Ultra Gold (I think), The gold is the highest temp one you can get. Smear this liberally on the gasket surfaces, you will have to remove the pipe, and let it sit overnight to dry properly. This should take up most imperfections as these types of sealants are designed to replace gaskets. The damage would have to be pretty bad for it to not work.
The red or the blue will do if you cannot get the gold but wont be reliable (should last well past the two weeks you want.
Muffler putty & Maniseal are great for slip on style joints but can be unreliable if the surface is not neat.
I have actually replaced gaskets with Ultra Blue, OHC 4.0lt Falcon motors have this annoying little gasket at the front of the head which leaks oil all the time. I just throw it away & place ultra blue & it never leaks again.
I hope this helps.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Road Ranger
then this would be soft enough to squash and seal properly like a gasket yeah? do this rather than smear and fit?mkpatrol wrote:What I am going to suggest is bodgy & I would only do it on my own car not a customers car![]()
Go to a reputable parts supplier like Repco, Autopro or Bursons, go to the sealants section. There will be a number of silicone based sealants there, three of the better ones are High temp red, Ultra blue & Ultra Gold (I think), The gold is the highest temp one you can get. Smear this liberally on the gasket surfaces, you will have to remove the pipe, and let it sit overnight to dry properly. This should take up most imperfections as these types of sealants are designed to replace gaskets. The damage would have to be pretty bad for it to not work.
The red or the blue will do if you cannot get the gold but wont be reliable (should last well past the two weeks you want.
Muffler putty & Maniseal are great for slip on style joints but can be unreliable if the surface is not neat.
I have actually replaced gaskets with Ultra Blue, OHC 4.0lt Falcon motors have this annoying little gasket at the front of the head which leaks oil all the time. I just throw it away & place ultra blue & it never leaks again.
I hope this helps.
thanks for the help
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Sorry, smear the gasket or the gasket surfaces liberally, refit straight away & then sit overnight, some will squeeze out the sides but unless its excessive leave it there. Provided there is no oil on the surfaces it should glue that tight that the exhaust bloke will curse you for doing it. 
If this doesnt work then the metal surfaces are really stuffed.

If this doesnt work then the metal surfaces are really stuffed.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Road Ranger
thanks, any issues with the internal given it is on a turbo vehicle?mkpatrol wrote:Sorry, smear the gasket or the gasket surfaces liberally, refit straight away & then sit overnight, some will squeeze out the sides but unless its excessive leave it there. Provided there is no oil on the surfaces it should glue that tight that the exhaust bloke will curse you for doing it.
If this doesnt work then the metal surfaces are really stuffed.
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Shouldnt do as any lose stuff should go down into the exhaust, thats why I say let it dry. Oil & petrol can affect this stuff but there shouldnt be any of that in your exhaust.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
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