Hi guys,
As a newbie feroza owner I stepped in at the deep end and bought an accident damaged 92 Feroza - basically it took a hit to the front bullbar which has damaged the radiator support panel, rh guard and inner guard or liner and slightly bent the chassis. Chassis is not as much as a concern as I first thought, as the local panel beater has a laser alignment straightening table and reckons it will be straightforward to get it back to original alignment. Had no keys and an immobiliser of unknown brand so when I managed to sort out keys etc and fired her up, there is a miss at idle which goes away if I just raise the revs slightly - seems to fire on all 4 cyls under load.
The vehicle was sitting for a month or more prior to me moving it out of the insurance yard - has anyone had any similar missing at idle experiences and can point me in the right direction? Done about 180,000km and I can't seem to isolate a particular cylinder sparkplug as not running and all hoses appear to be linked up properly to the mainifold and airflow sensor. Any tips on cleaning injectors ie do the fuel additives work or on any other typical feroza probs eg bad ignition leads etc?
Many thanks,
Noel
Perth, WA.
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Miss at idle
Moderator: Tiny
I am having similar probs with a miss when you gas it aswell as a surge (maybe fuel) on start up but if i hold it at around 2 1/2 grand it clears up in a few seconds. To rectify the miss I replaced the plugs, make sure the rubber boots are on the end of the leads, and put a nulon injector treatment in and that seemed to fix the miss. Now just the surge to sort out so if you have any ideas pm me as ive checked fuel, spark, vacume and still cant sort the bugger out
89' feroza
2" sus lift
31x10.5x15 mudders
www.fishaholics.biz
2" sus lift
31x10.5x15 mudders
www.fishaholics.biz
I notice this is happening as winter comes on, my Feroza does a similar thing.
I have had two possible causes for a rough idle, especially when cold.
1. Clean out the throttle body. Take off the elbow before the plenum (where the air goes into the manifold and the injectors are) look to see if the surface in there is dirty. Even if it isnt spray a good amount of carby cleaner in there with the butterfly closed and then open the butterfly. Get a toothbrush and scrub all the surfaces of the inlet while soaking it further. Black stuff shoud run out, this is carbon.
Let the car sit for a moment and then start it. It will run rough. Then repeat the process with the car running until the carby cleaner running down the inlet is clear. Then rev the car cleanly until it runs smooth.
Stop the engine and replace all the parts you removed making sure not to get any dirt in the inlet or elbow.
2. Have your injectors serviced by a mechanic. It wil fix a lot of cold idle problems as well as making them quieter and more fuel efficient. If this cost more than $200 you're being ripped off.
I have had two possible causes for a rough idle, especially when cold.
1. Clean out the throttle body. Take off the elbow before the plenum (where the air goes into the manifold and the injectors are) look to see if the surface in there is dirty. Even if it isnt spray a good amount of carby cleaner in there with the butterfly closed and then open the butterfly. Get a toothbrush and scrub all the surfaces of the inlet while soaking it further. Black stuff shoud run out, this is carbon.
Let the car sit for a moment and then start it. It will run rough. Then repeat the process with the car running until the carby cleaner running down the inlet is clear. Then rev the car cleanly until it runs smooth.
Stop the engine and replace all the parts you removed making sure not to get any dirt in the inlet or elbow.
2. Have your injectors serviced by a mechanic. It wil fix a lot of cold idle problems as well as making them quieter and more fuel efficient. If this cost more than $200 you're being ripped off.
On boooooost!!
Replace the basics first if you don't know the service history. ie. all filters (air and fuel), then change the spark plugs and check the ignition timing. Check all the electrical connections around the engine bay and check with a multimeter to see if your oxy sensor body is earthed. If it's still missing then search further and look at EFI fault codes, leads, distributor cap etc.
Could be worth doing the timing belt if you don't know when it was last done.
Could be worth doing the timing belt if you don't know when it was last done.
David
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