Steering Solutions for lifted Sierras

[alien]

Hey Guys, Searching this is just impossible - so many useless results!

Can we get explanations of:

Crossover

High Steer

Z-link

and on each plusses, negatives, and the type of lift they would apply to, easiest way to do this i spose is have people say how they did theirs, the lift theyre running, and why they chose it over any other kind. Price may also be good.

Main reason for me asking is im soon to do Lux leaves spua, 4" lift but hopefully alot of flex. now usually a zuk with 4" lift (2" spring 2" body) wont neccessarily need much work done to steering, however with more flex and the lift all at the spring, its gonna need something done for sure. Im sure other people must be in similar situations.

so yeah, lets have it guys - hopefully this can be the be-all end-all topic on steering (except obviously the ones on the merc-arms).[/b]

[RB zook]

i have lux diffs standard pitman arm and lengthened drag link

i run a flipped arm i made and it cost me 40 bucks

[roc box]

got high steer on zook diffs m+m custom engineering works great, going lux diffs in a couple of days will be using flip arm but a little different to ryans[rbzook]

[suzidisco]

running merc steering arms bolted to disc brakes cost $20 from wreckers

[nicbeer]

whats best for 2"spring and 2" shackle? i was thinking of a drop pitman would be ok for most of it.

We need to separate with: and all the combinations.
SPUA
SPOA
Zook diffs
Lux diffs
Nissan diffs
etc

[lay80n]

Hey Guys, Searching this is just impossible - so many useless results!

Can we get explanations of:

Crossover

High Steer

Z-link

and on each plusses, negatives, and the type of lift they would apply to, easiest way to do this i spose is have people say how they did theirs, the lift theyre running, and why they chose it over any other kind. Price may also be good.

Main reason for me asking is im soon to do Lux leaves spua, 4" lift but hopefully alot of flex. now usually a zuk with 4" lift (2" spring 2" body) wont neccessarily need much work done to steering, however with more flex and the lift all at the spring, its gonna need something done for sure. Im sure other people must be in similar situations.

so yeah, lets have it guys - hopefully this can be the be-all end-all topic on steering (except obviously the ones on the merc-arms).[/b]

Cross over steering - Drag link runs over the top of the spring packs, and tie rod remains in original place below the leaf pack. Easy to do mod, that helps reduce bump steer and contact between steering components when front axle is moved. Still leaves the tie rod more vunerable to impacts.
High steer - Tie rod and drag link moved over the top of the leaf pack. Much the same benefits as x-over, but moves the tie-rod away from potential impact damage. Can bring clearence issues as now the links are above the leafs, they might contact sump etc on suspension cycling.
z-Link - basically a bent tie rod, so that when the steering cycles through its movement it does not contact the leaf packs (more used in spoa applications). Does not realy address the problem of bump steer, and is comsidered "Dodgy" by many.
Drop pitman arm - Pitman arm is the arm from the steering box to the drag link. By haveing this pointing lower you can reduce the angle of the draglink, and reduce bumpsteer. Can be used in conjunction with a z-link.
Hope this helps.

I run x-over steer with my spoa zook. Much improved steering over z-link, feels better than standard.

Layto....

[alien]

sweet as - now we're getting some good info!

Like Nic said though - make sure you state what kind of lift and diffs you're on =) also - if anyone can offer the "best" solution, and price you can be expected to pay for:

2" spring lift with 2" BL
SPOA Stock leaves
SPOA RUF Stock leave
SPOA 2" lifted
SPOA 2" lifted RUF
SPOA YJ / Hilux
SPUA YJ / Hilux

Got a calmini product listing here for their high steer system, RRP $300US http://www.puresuzuki.com/hi_steer_system.htm - so roughly $400AU + Shipping. Not sure about the 2.5" backspacing though? sounds dodgey cos wheel spacers are disliked by the boys in blue here in WA.

[lay80n]

With my setup, i can only just fit -25 back spaced 15x8 rims, i cant run wheel weights on the lhf inner rim, thats how close it is. Is all good with -28 offset though. Will try to get some photos in the next few days.
Layto....

[alien]

Email reply from calmini asking about the backspace issue:

"The wheels must have a 2.5" backspacing to clear the new steering arms. Any larger backspacing will cause rubbing issues and limit the steering capabilities. Also, the kit is currently for left hand drive models only as the right hand drive models are in the works. Please let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you for your interest in the CALMINI Suzuki line. Awaiting your reply."

So there goes that idea =)

[kowntafit]

Running spoa with a z-link. I know everyone says they are dodgy and shit but seriously, I think 99% of those people just say it cause someone else did so it makes them sound like they know what they are talking about. I haven't noticed any difference in steering at all and I have no idea what all the bump steer fuss is about. It is by far the cheapest and as far as I'm concerned I don't see why you would want anything else. If I had lots of money I would probably order a high steer kit, but only because it looks better. A z-link can hit the spring on very extreme articulation, but I have never actually seen anyone come close.

Alien, I'm not sure any different steering setup will address the flex differently, I think they would all behave the same, then again if this infamous bump steer exists maybe it would, but I still don't see what the problem is. That said I would just get something that works good with the level 4" lift you will have on road. I would probably go a z-link, I don't think a pitman arm alone would do it, and I don't think the high steer would be any better, you have the springs there anyway, better putting the extra cash towards lockers or something.

Just my 2c. Looking forward to your buildup

[sierrajim]

[/quote]z-Link - basically a bent tie rod

Isn't a Z link a bent drag link?

The drag link joins the steering box with the knuckle and the tie rod connects the left and right knuckle.

[redzook]

Running spoa with a z-link. I know everyone says they are dodgy and shit but seriously, I think 99% of those people just say it cause someone else did so it makes them sound like they know what they are talking about. I haven't noticed any difference in steering at all and I have no idea what all the bump steer fuss is about. It is by far the cheapest and as far as I'm concerned I don't see why you would want anything else. If I had lots of money I would probably order a high steer kit, but only because it looks better. A z-link can hit the spring on very extreme articulation, but I have never actually seen anyone come close.

Alien, I'm not sure any different steering setup will address the flex differently, I think they would all behave the same, then again if this infamous bump steer exists maybe it would, but I still don't see what the problem is. That said I would just get something that works good with the level 4" lift you will have on road. I would probably go a z-link, I don't think a pitman arm alone would do it, and I don't think the high steer would be any better, you have the springs there anyway, better putting the extra cash towards lockers or something.

Just my 2c. Looking forward to your buildup

i used to run a Z link
got bump steer?

i dont care what any one says when ur draglink is on that much of and angle with leaf springs u will get bump steer. unless u run a panhard

when my zlink broke YES BROKE
i want to a mercedescrossover steer (it was borrowed)
then went to overkills crossover
they both handled the same quite well i belive better then stock

why would he go a z link while SPUA?

ur best bet is to go either a drop pitman arm or high steer
(you want ur draglink as flat as you can get it) to minamize bumpsteer

[NUGGS]

Pardon my ignorance but could someone possibly explain bump stear

[nicbeer]

Can you use histeer with spua?

if not what is the needed to run it.

cheers

[redzook]

Can you use histeer with spua?

if not what is the needed to run it.

cheers

u should be able to

4" spua lift is nearly the same as 4.5" spoa

so everthing should clear

[ausyota]

Pardon my ignorance but could someone possibly explain bump stear

Bump steer simply put is when the car steers when hitting bumps
It happens worse with lifted suspension as the angle of the draglink is steep, when you hit a bump and the suspension compresses the angle on the link flattens out and pushes the wheels a little to the left.

Im no expert and if Im wrong someone please correct me
Paul.

[kowntafit]

i used to run a Z link
got bump steer?

i dont care what any one says when ur draglink is on that much of and angle with leaf springs u will get bump steer. unless u run a panhard

when my zlink broke YES BROKE
i want to a mercedescrossover steer (it was borrowed)
then went to overkills crossover
they both handled the same quite well i belive better then stock

why would he go a z link while SPUA?

ur best bet is to go either a drop pitman arm or high steer
(you want ur draglink as flat as you can get it) to minamize bumpsteer

Well I'm not getting any bump steer problems, in theory yes it would encourage your wheels to turn a bit but in practice I'm not noticing anything so I think that is more important. The original drag link is on an angle too so it's not like it is creating a new problem, just increasing it abit, but if it's not noticable, I don't concider it a problem. Maybe if you are running light little tyres it may be worse, mine are fairly big so the gyroscopic effect would be much greater, also the friction from the larger surface area would help resist it too, anyone with big tyres and no power steering would understand.


As for it breaking, well anything that is under designed is prone to breaking, did you order a proper one from a reputable company or are you blaming bad workman ship on a simple idea? I have never heard of anyone breaking a proper one. I would be more concerned with a high steer arm that just bolts to the brake caliper, that is something that it is not designed for, but that wouldn't bother me either.

I think the biggest drop pitman arms you can get are 3", and apparently that is 3" from standard, some claim 4" etc but that is from horizontal, and the standard is already 1", so it will only correct 3". Why can't you use a z-link for spua? He needs an extended drag link, I don't know of anyone who sells straight ones, so just buy a z-link, does exactly the same job, except looks better cause the ends are horizontal.

I don't have shares in z-links so it doesn't bother me. I got mine cause it was cheap, and I've heard lots of people, mainly Australians whinge about them. The truth is most of them have never had one or a high steer so their opinions are pretty worthless. In the US I think most use z-links with no problems, it's cheap and I don't have a problem with it. My z-link cost $130 including shipping, if hi steer kits are only made for left hand drives then you have to order one from here, maybe just price one first and then reconcider, and remember to include shipping for a fair comparison.

[Tim D]

Here is a kit that will fit left or right.
http://www.bc4x4.com/pr/2000/brzstr/brzstr.cfm

[alien]

Good link!

Opposite Lock in Balcatta (Perth) do a true 2.5" drop pitman for $350 and Hi-Steer for $750ish. Just so you all know.

[lay80n]

I have used both z-link and now z-over steer, and find the x-over steer so much better that z-link its not funny. With z-link it handled very average, now it is way better than factory. That is with SPOA, flat springs, and 32 inch tsl/sx swampers on -28 offset rims. I wouldnt go back to running a z-link at all. If you are lookin at running a spua lift, but around 4 inch, then keeping the drag link flat will be worth it, esp. if you want to drive it on the road a bit.
Layto....