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mq brakes
mq brakes
ok had a look though the bible and theres not much about brakes in it i know brakes are brakes and they are all basically the same but iam having some probs with mine the pedal is very spongey and ends up going to the floor cant here air etc or am loosing fluid any ideas or people had similar probs
cheers
cheers
PUT YOUR HANDS UP IF YOU WANT TO GO FASTER
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Both replies are right....
Spongey brakes are usually associated with air in the system but a similar effect can be "felt" with very old fluid........ Brake fluid loves waterand will attratct it like a mare on heat to a stallion.
A stuffed master cylinder usually will give a similar effect but is most noticble when the brakes are "held" on..... IE: like sitting at the traffic lights.... the pedal will slowly fall to the floor.
flush the system for starters ( cheapest way out) and refill with NEW fluid.
If there's no improvement replace the master cylinder ( expensive way out )
Kingy
P/S
Added to the good book
Spongey brakes are usually associated with air in the system but a similar effect can be "felt" with very old fluid........ Brake fluid loves waterand will attratct it like a mare on heat to a stallion.
A stuffed master cylinder usually will give a similar effect but is most noticble when the brakes are "held" on..... IE: like sitting at the traffic lights.... the pedal will slowly fall to the floor.
flush the system for starters ( cheapest way out) and refill with NEW fluid.
If there's no improvement replace the master cylinder ( expensive way out )
Kingy
P/S
Added to the good book
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
yeh bleed the air out.
also check the vacuum line going from the booster to the motor for vacuum leaks.....
any fluid leaks wont help the cause....
also i have replaced both my master cylender with a new one and my brake booster with a fully recoed one and have never had brake problems since, i have new wheel cylenders pads and shoes also...
they work fine this is y i havent gone rear disk conversion as the new parts in my system work well enough..
the last CHEAP option u have to check is the rear brake shoes.
if there is alot wear in the shoes u will get huge amounts of soft pedal.
check ur rear shoes, if they are good, then tighten them up with a bent screwdriver until the wheel studs to get tight to spin ( on jack ) then back it off just enough to not get any pad interferance.
test ur pedal after this and the brake bleed and see how u go. this has happened to me before
screwy
also check the vacuum line going from the booster to the motor for vacuum leaks.....
any fluid leaks wont help the cause....
also i have replaced both my master cylender with a new one and my brake booster with a fully recoed one and have never had brake problems since, i have new wheel cylenders pads and shoes also...
they work fine this is y i havent gone rear disk conversion as the new parts in my system work well enough..
the last CHEAP option u have to check is the rear brake shoes.
if there is alot wear in the shoes u will get huge amounts of soft pedal.
check ur rear shoes, if they are good, then tighten them up with a bent screwdriver until the wheel studs to get tight to spin ( on jack ) then back it off just enough to not get any pad interferance.
test ur pedal after this and the brake bleed and see how u go. this has happened to me before
screwy
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replace the rear shoes and tighten that will more than likely fix the problem, other than that bleed her out.muduppig wrote:thanks for the replies fellas i will have to start working though it and see how it goes i will prob throw new pads at it anyway
cheers
screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
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dumb question
ok this may seem like a completly stupid question, but i have a similar problem. i pulled the drums off the rear and the shoes have heaps left on them, so i just pulled everything all apart and cleaned them all up and greased them all up and put them back together and set the clearance.
they are better but still not great. MY QUESTION: is with bleeding, i bled from each wheel and the box in the middle near the fuel pump, but HOW do i bleed the master cylinder??
Its got no bleeder valve/nipple. Mate suggested loosening the line and tightening it while the pedal is being depressed? is this right or complete horse crap???
just wanna bleed it all properly (it's now all new fluid) and try everything cheap before i look at anything else.
Cheers!
Scotty
they are better but still not great. MY QUESTION: is with bleeding, i bled from each wheel and the box in the middle near the fuel pump, but HOW do i bleed the master cylinder??
Its got no bleeder valve/nipple. Mate suggested loosening the line and tightening it while the pedal is being depressed? is this right or complete horse crap???
just wanna bleed it all properly (it's now all new fluid) and try everything cheap before i look at anything else.
Cheers!
Scotty
Last edited by mr_skater99 on Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Back when I had a Series 1 RX7 my pedal would fall to teh floor. Mazda wanted $100 for the 6 rubber O-Rings. I got aftermarket from maz Parts for $30. Changed the O-Rings, bleed the brakes and bingo !
Steve
Steve
2010 TB48 GU Patrol
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
1973 G60 MWB Soft Top Showcar
1972 G60 MWB Soft Top Project 4WD
1978 G60 Ute "HellPatrol"
www.oz4wdclassicparts.com.au
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