350 Chev into 40 Series - The real cost, and a few other q's

[dogbreath_48]

G'day guys, as you can probably tell i'm a new poster around here (been lurking for a while though). I've learnt alot, but there are a few questions left unanswered (yes i searched!).

1) What's the REAL cost involved in dropping an LPG 350 Chevy - turbo 350/400 combo into a 40 series LWB (ignoring required brake/suspension upgrades, and original price of engine+'box+LPG system). I can do all the maths working from marks adapters prices (about $1500 in new parts sound about right?), but like any project the cost invariably blows out. I could do most work myself, or otherwise get it done at mates-rates.
Would i be right in thinking that in the long run it may be cheaper to go with an auto-box with t-case adapted rather than a worn out, expensive-to-rebuild toyota manual? (i'd be looking at buying a non-runner as a base to start from, so i wouldn't trust the supplied box - if it even came with one).

A rough calculation tells me i could get away with $2500-$3000 all up? (for the engine/box swap alone) Am i a complete dreamer? Obviously that wouldn't be the freshest engine/box on the block...

Marks also recommends crawler gears due to the lower compression petrol. Could i get away without em, even with an auto? As with high-range; would the gearing with an auto be suitable for highway use? (what i'm really asking is how will it go with the standard t-case/diffs and we'll say 35's).

Also do propshafts have to be lengthened/shortened?

2) Rust. Where are the bad spots (looking for a LWB ute)? I took a look at a 'repaired' example the other night and the sills were full of bog. It seemed like this was the only spot that suffered. Are the sills/floor section easily replaceable/repairable? Would i be better off looking for a good cab at a wreakers (and is it all one piece? i.e. floor/sills/upper cab). Keep in mind my welding skills are non existant - my old man can arc ok though.

3) How does a modified 40 ride/handle/stop compared to a stock 75? Obviously it depends on the level of mods (lets say at least altered springs/shackles, shocks, disk brake front and PS), but could handling and ride be made to be compareable to the 75, or is it closer to a series one landrover?


What i'm wanting is esentially a weekend warrior, but that remains fairly neat and tidy, comfortable and practical.

So if anyone could give me a few pointers as to the above questions, i'd really appreciate it!

-Stu

[bad_religion_au]

rust... floors, windscreen surrounds, front panel that flips down with the headlights, bonnet, doors around the window rubbers, roof gutters, b pillars...

a marks kit i think keeps shaft the same length generally... but would probably be dependant alot on what gearbox transfer combo you went

later model 45's (long wheelbase 40's) can take 75 series suspension, the 75 series axlesa re the same width, and with either 60 or 75 series powersteering, and brakes (swivel hubs from early 75 series bolt straight up), you could make it handle closely like a 75 series with the same lift.

comfortable.. you can get them acceptable... some good aftermarket seats help alot... depends, some will never be comfy with the utilitarian dash, others will love the simplicity.

[Stackson45]

If you're after a LWB ute i've got one for sale in the vehicles for sale section. Very little rust - almost no cancerous rust. PM me if interested - will cost a few hunge to get it shipped down there though.

As far rust goes look everywhere.

Cost of putting in a V8 ( i put a 283 into my last 45 ute) will include stuff like cooling - thermos/new rad if needed/hoses , exhaust system, wiring, ignition system, relocate battery maybe, I think with a Marks kit you don't change driveshafts though.

FFS don't run a dual point Mallory dizzy!! i learnt that one the hard way - ended up melting the guts of the carby while on the freeway.

[croozy]

One thing you have to take in account is an engineer's report on top of your engine swap. As for cost its all depends on what you end up doing. I started with just an engine swap & ended up looking at a bare chassis & a sand blasted body. Now I have an 8 page engineer report & I still haven't finished playin' with the friggin thing. At last count I was up to about $35k & 95% of the work was done by myself, so you can get a little carried away. BE CAREFUL,
But hey what else would you spend your hard earned dosh on...............
a bloody nissan? I DON'T THINK SO!

[dogbreath_48]

One thing you have to take in account is an engineer's report on top of your engine swap. As for cost its all depends on what you end up doing. I started with just an engine swap & ended up looking at a bare chassis & a sand blasted body. Now I have an 8 page engineer report & I still haven't finished playin' with the friggin thing. At last count I was up to about $35k & 95% of the work was done by myself, so you can get a little carried away. BE CAREFUL,
But hey what else would you spend your hard earned dosh on...............
a bloody nissan? I DON'T THINK SO!

Knew about the engineers report, how much is it likely to cost? (just to cover the engine/box conversion) What sort of things are required for an engineers report? Is it just a case of decent suspension, disk brakes (front only?), and a properly done conversion? (properly: no shonky welding etc).

One i'm interested in is a '79 model, going for $1400 with newish HD springs/shocks, disk brake front, and a full LPG system. It comes with engineer reports for a 350 chev swap. The rust has been 'fixed' (bogged) in the sills recently, which is the main thing that turns me off it. The rest of the body seems pretty solid, although i havn't checked it out really well yet. Do you guys think it's worth it? (doesn't come with engine/box or RWC for $1400. Comes with turbo 400 top suit 4 speed t-case for $2000). I'm thinking of offering him 1000-1200 for it.

Also will bogged sills get through RWC?

What i'm really curious about now is suitable gearing, whether it be with a toyota 'box or (more likely) a turbo 350/400, and 35's.

-Stu

[croozy]

engineers report will cost some where around $600 in n.s.w. dunno about victoria, but if the car is already engineered it shouldn't be a problem. saying that you may need to get it redone if it's been out of rego for a long period ( thats what we have to do in n.s.w.) as for price it's up to you mate , gotta work out what you are actualy gonna do with & how much you wanna spend.offer him a grand & see how you go.

[dogbreath_48]

engineers report will cost some where around $600 in n.s.w. dunno about victoria, but if the car is already engineered it shouldn't be a problem. saying that you may need to get it redone if it's been out of rego for a long period ( thats what we have to do in n.s.w.) as for price it's up to you mate , gotta work out what you are actualy gonna do with & how much you wanna spend.offer him a grand & see how you go.

Thanks all for the help. I went to offer him a grand but it was sold :(

Well back to the trading post...

-Stu