Pricks in Tire joints with rattle guns..

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:37 pm

Well had new tires put on 2 days ago.. Tonight tryin to get wheels off to put the Simex's on, and some asshole at the tire joint must have sat there for 45 mins with a rattle gun on 1 nut.

I've tried a 5ft bar on the end of the wheel brace which now resembles licorice and it aint budged - not even creaked... I've tried tightening the ones next to it, and opposite it, and no chance.

Im phukt if I know what I can do.

Any ideas? No I dont have a rattle gun, and 7am at maccas departure tomorrow...

Real good if you were in middle of nowhere and had a flat.

So if ya get tires fitted by somebleepin 2yr old with a rattle gun, hand him the wheel brace and ask him to remove the nuts before you drive out the phuckin door.

Post by **bj56** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:40 pm

they are probly crosed or soemthing i use a ratle gun at work all the time and w mange to get the undone with a wheel braces

Post by **giantracing** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:40 pm

try putting your pipe on. lay the pipe towards the ground and drive back use the moving car to undo. be careful..... by the sound of it , it has been cross threaded....

Post by **Daisy** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:43 pm

giantracing wrote:try putting your pipe on. lay the pipe towards the ground and drive back use the moving car to undo. be careful..... by the sound of it , it has been cross threaded....

what he said..

and if you're on a hill.. roll it backwards with a lil bit of play so it can catch and jerk the nut loose rather than progressive loosening which can snap it.

TOM

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:44 pm

if it is cross threaded how fucked am I for tomorrow?

how hard are they to replace? is tire moron going to be able to do it?

Post by **blkmav** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:47 pm

Check your mail

Post by **Daisy** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:48 pm

bogged wrote:if it is cross threaded how ***** am I for tomorrow?

how hard are they to replace? is tire moron going to be able to do it?

hard to say...

it depends on whether you have available transport for your vehicle if you lose a wheel.

having said that.. i drove on a 3 stripped nuts and 3 welded studs onto my wheel just to get home (300km journey) and as soon as i got back.. they were cut off and a new axle put in (rear wheel came off while drivin to a comp)

I wouldnt recommend it at all...

try removin the nut before worryin about the cross thread first.

Post by **grazza** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:55 pm

No help to you now Bogged, but I always put a bit of Locktite 767 on the threads.

...but "professional" TYRE joints should take more care...even if the studs are a bit rusty (or whatever)

Post by **frp88** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:55 pm

i know just get an oxy and heat the nut

or dont put simex's on and send them to me coss you dont need them you have new tyers now

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:57 pm

well the wheelbrace snapped.

THanks Cookie fuck wont he be gettin a phone call tomorrow

Post by **blkmav** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:59 pm

Just this afternoon I undid and torqued all my wheels as I had the JT2's turned on the rims yesterday. Fark some of those nuts were done up tight by the tyre place.

It took them 2 hours to balance 5 JT2's to 0:0

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:00 pm

blkmav wrote:Just this afternoon I undid and torqued all my wheels as I had the JT2's turned on the rims yesterday. Fark some of those nuts were done up tight by the tyre place.

It took them 2 hours to balance 5 JT2's to 0:0

I got ya mail, gimme 10 mins got a mate comin round, if that fucks up I'll take ya up on ya offa

Post by **blkmav** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:03 pm

bogged wrote:
blkmav wrote:Just this afternoon I undid and torqued all my wheels as I had the JT2's turned on the rims yesterday. Fark some of those nuts were done up tight by the tyre place.

It took them 2 hours to balance 5 JT2's to 0:0
I got ya mail, gimme 10 mins got a mate comin round, if that ***** up I'll take ya up on ya offa

Better hurry, I am getting stuck into a bottle of Drambuie and the neighbours will be pissed when I fire up the compressor

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:04 pm

blkmav wrote:Better hurry, I am getting stuck into a bottle of Drambuie and the neighbours will be pissed when I fire up the compressor

one neighbour was up till 1030 doing his last night, but he pissed off to a boat race... adn fuck the other prick.

check ya email

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:06 pm

and if ya had too many dude, dont worry it aint worth ya license.

Post by **evil_hitman** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:11 pm

well i got an air and a 12 volt rattle gun. by the sounds of it would probably have to go the air.
if ya somewhere near north dandenong then PM me and we'll sort something out.

Matt

Post by **mickyd555** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:12 pm

you need to eat more weet bix ya pussy................

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:26 pm

If worst comes to worst, you can always cut/grind the nut off - if you are careful, in the unlikely event that the stud is still OK, you will just need a new nut.

Doesn't help you now, but I always take just the rims in, off the truck, and put them on at home. Won't let a rattle gun near my wheel nuts.

Post by **Slunnie** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:37 pm

When the wheels go on you can ask them not to rattle them on tight. They click down the rattle gun and alls good. This is good for spares also, especially when the carriers have mild cheese bolts. Too late now though.

Post by **chimpboy** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:51 pm

I once wrote a letter to Bridgestone about one of their tyre centres doing this to my car... got a useless response of course - it's not the sort of thing I'd bother doing now.

I broke a wheelbrace too at the time and ended up taking it back.

It's not just bad because they are hard to get off, it's bad because it can stretch the threads on the wheel studs and if you have alloy rims, damage the rims. Not that most fourbies have alloy rims, but the tyre places use rattle guns on everything.

Rattle guns also sometimes *don't* do the nuts up properly - they are made for undoing things, and they can sometimes leave things loose they're used to tighten something up.

Anyway. Go apeshit. They shouldn't be using rattle guns to do up wheel nuts, ever, not even on a low setting.

Good luck.

Jason

Post by **bj42turbo** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:58 pm

Apply heat to the nut then try

BJ

Post by **bogged** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 11:12 pm

Problem solved...

thanks to evil_hitman and blkmav for offers of compressors and rattle guns..

nutha mate came over who I thought was just bringin breaker bar and gas torch..

he brought compressor, rattle gun, and dozen UDL's...

fuckin havent started packin other crap, and have missed the bottlo :( Looks like Woods Pt Pub for grog tomorrow night..

Thanks again to all ...

ps.. have to burn some CDs yet
scored 8,000+ MP3's yesterday

http://www.geocities.com/boggedtothescrotum/mp3.html

Post by **ozy1** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 11:30 pm

just a tip for those havin a shop fit wheels up, tell them in the shop, that all wheel nut are to be done using a tourque wrench to the correct setting, this is the way they should be done, and dont leave the vehicle there, stay and watch what they do,

i know the tyre place i go to, put the nuts on by hand, so they dont cross thread em, then the use the rattle gun, to take the nuts in to take up minor tension, then the get the tourqe wrench to finish up

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 12:05 am

ozy1 wrote:just a tip for those havin a shop fit wheels up, tell them in the shop, that all wheel nut are to be done using a tourque wrench to the correct setting, this is the way they should be done, and dont leave the vehicle there, stay and watch what they do,

i know the tyre place i go to, put the nuts on by hand, so they dont cross thread em, then the use the rattle gun, to take the nuts in to take up minor tension, then the get the tourqe wrench to finish up

This method doesn't work either. I went to a place that did that and they still did them up too tight - needed a breaker bar to remove them.

Post by **N*A*M** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 12:54 am

offtopic... we did werock with 4 nuts per wheel in the back and 5 per front wheel. gee... that equals 6 missing nuts. coincidence? i think not.

Post by **rockcrawler31** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:31 am

in the drilling industry we often get drill pipe that has torqued up to buggery. we apply the breakout wrenches and then hit the joint with 4 pound sledge mallet.

i have done similar with wheel nuts/tow balls. apply torque and bash with hammer at same time to use shock to break the hold.

Post by **rockcrawler31** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:32 am

sledge hammer sorry. having an early morning after shift brain fart

Post by **POS** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 7:52 am

I can't beleive no one asked if he was turning them the right way!

Notice how bogged didn't elaborate on how he got it off. I bet you his mate came over and undone the nut the proper way!

Hope you have a good trip Bogged.

Post by **Bitsamissin** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 9:22 am

Sometimes you have to "crack" them...............
Meaning a good smack with a mallet right on the nut then using a socket to undo giving that a couple of smacks to shockload the nut. Has worked for me every time even for cross threaded nuts.

Post by **flyinwall** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:02 pm

N*A*M wrote:offtopic... we did werock with 4 nuts per wheel in the back and 5 per front wheel. gee... that equals 6 missing nuts. coincidence? i think not.

i think you might have had another nut that was loose ...... the loose nut behind the wheel

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Pricks in Tire joints with rattle guns..

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