Pic for Bundy_Harry

[droopypete]

Peter.

[V6 Bundy]

Ooookaaaayyyy?

[droopypete]

He want's to cut down a MWB FRP top to fit a Bundera, so I am showing him where I cut mine
I hope this helps Bundy_Harry, if you have any other questions ask here.
Peter.

[dumbdunce]

arent there factory (and aftermarket?) FRP tops for bundys?

[Bundy_Harry]

I was kind of hoping for a little more detail here. This ius what I know about the series
RJ/LJ 70 Softop Bunderas coil sprung only, not to be confused with FJ/BJ/HZJ/PZJ 70 leaf sprung shorties came out with soft tops only as OEM equipment. FJ/BJ 73/74 MWB came out with FRP Top only and no soft top. Originally the soft tops did not sell as well as the FRP tops so A Melbourne Company by name of Lowline Canopies was contracted to create sheet metal canopies (thanx to Bundytime for this information) Bundytime also has a picture of one on website check it out. I have an RJ70 softtop with an aftermarket Fibreglass canopy made by Cruiser Canopies in NSW. Bundytime's Bundera and mine are the only 2 I know with aftermarket canopies. I much prefer the look of a genuine FRP Top especially for my buildup/restore, it looks more factory which is what I am aiming to do with mine ATM.
What i need to know about the coversion follows:
how is it affixed to the body aft of the roll bar?
I believe there are bolts beneath the FRP Top Badge that secure it to the Roll Bar on the middy, has anyone modifed the roll bar on a Bundera to accomodate this?
The bracing bar that runs from the Roll bar to top of windscreen on Bundera differ from those on the middy. Since the Frp top has it's own "gutters" molded above the doors none are need on the braces, on Bundy softtops however the braces include the gutter, have these braces been swapped on any relevant conversion?
Do the rear doors on the soft top fit to the frp top?
Will rear doors from an LX Bundera hardtop fit to an FRP top conversion on a Bundera?
When the FRP top is cut how is it rejoined, For this I would really appreciate internal and external photos of a converted top to see exactly what has to be modifed or changed.
Is the original Roof lining retained?
What sort of wind noise is experienced when the vehicle is at cruising speeds?
How warm does it get inside?
Do you have any problems with moisture? Bear in mind that the softtop Bundera does not have the vents as featured in Hardtop Bundera or MWB 73/74 series cruisers.
I don't expect answers to all these questions, I will appreciate any information I can get at this stage
cheers
Bundy_harry

[droopypete]

arent there factory (and aftermarket?) FRP tops for bundys?

I don't beleive there is a genuine Toyota FRP top for a Bundy.
I reserched this at great length with a mate that worked at Toyota Aust in early 1989, it is not in any Toyota parts book anywere in the world, I have never even seen a photo of one (except a real bodgy cut down MWB one here in Vic), some people have shown me pictures of chalange or cruiser tops incorrectly thinking they were genuine, having said all that, the fact that I havn't seen one dosn't mean it dosn't exist (but I don't think they do )
Peter.

[droopypete]

I was kind of hoping for a little more detail here. This ius what I know about the series
RJ/LJ 70 Softop Bunderas coil sprung only, not to be confused with FJ/BJ/HZJ/PZJ 70 leaf sprung shorties came out with soft tops only as OEM equipment. FJ/BJ 73/74 MWB came out with FRP Top only and no soft top. Originally the soft tops did not sell as well as the FRP tops so A Melbourne Company by name of Lowline Canopies was contracted to create sheet metal canopies (thanx to Bundytime for this information) Bundytime also has a picture of one on website check it out. I have an RJ70 softtop with an aftermarket Fibreglass canopy made by Cruiser Canopies in NSW. Bundytime's Bundera and mine are the only 2 I know with aftermarket canopies. I much prefer the look of a genuine FRP Top especially for my buildup/restore, it looks more factory which is what I am aiming to do with mine ATM.
What i need to know about the coversion follows:
1. how is it affixed to the body aft of the roll bar?
2. I believe there are bolts beneath the FRP Top Badge that secure it to the Roll Bar on the middy, has anyone modifed the roll bar on a Bundera to accomodate this?
3. The bracing bar that runs from the Roll bar to top of windscreen on Bundera differ from those on the middy. Since the Frp top has it's own "gutters" molded above the doors none are need on the braces, on Bundy softtops however the braces include the gutter, have these braces been swapped on any relevant conversion?
4. Do the rear doors on the soft top fit to the frp top?
5. Will rear doors from an LX Bundera hardtop fit to an FRP top conversion on a Bundera?
6. When the FRP top is cut how is it rejoined, For this I would really appreciate internal and external photos of a converted top to see exactly what has to be modifed or changed.
7. Is the original Roof lining retained?
8. What sort of wind noise is experienced when the vehicle is at cruising speeds?
9. How warm does it get inside?
10. Do you have any problems with moisture? Bear in mind that the softtop Bundera does not have the vents as featured in Hardtop Bundera or MWB 73/74 series cruisers.
I don't expect answers to all these questions, I will appreciate any information I can get at this stage
cheers
Bundy_harry

No problem Harry lets have a crack at your list
1. the top has 4 tapered steel locating dowels (2 per side) you will have to drill holes of the correct size and location to accomodate them (measure 10 times and drill once), there is also a series of M8 threaded inserts in the base of the top (where it sits on the side of the car) you will have to drill holes of the correct size and location to accomodate these as well.
the dowels do top job (excuse the pun ) in locating the top, be acurate with the holes.
2. yess there is a bolt under the FRP badge but in 15 years I have never put it in.
3. I used middy braces on mine (you can also use ute ones)
4. yes.
5. yes
6. when it is cut (as per the pic) the stagger is important to spread the weak spot and add strength, the pannel under the window is hollow and we put some fibre glass matt inside to gusset the joint, and on both the top and bottom joint we laid matt over the joint but not on the outside, this was sealed by my panel beater, he used a urathane sealant on the top seam and a filler on the bottom, the FRP top has a heavy textured finish, that he replicated by spraying some spray putty on in a very creative way
7. Not on mine but it maybe possable.
8. no more than a hard top.
9. Same as a hard top
10. no.

Some other bits,
the window frame has to be shortened (hack saw and a welder, easy), but the glass is toughened and I could not find anyone to cut it down, it is not a problem though as they just overlap a bit more and is not noticable unless the window is REAL dirty.

you will also need a middy or ute windscreen frame as there is 4 bolts along the top of the frame into the top with a rubber gasket between and the soft top bundy has a track for the soft top that may interfere (maybe able to remove, maybe not)
This is turning into an epic (maybe one for the bible)

If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask, and good luck with your project.
Peter.

[Meldge]

Well, I have one of these... FJ73...