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clutch problem with defender
Moderator: Micka
clutch problem with defender
i have 1998 defender 110 station wagon
today i was pulling into a car park, and pulled into a space, i wasnt straight so i put her into reverse, backed up a bit then put it back into 1st, i was letting the clutch pedal out when i head this snapping clunk then the 4by stalled, the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor, then i got out pulled it out and it came out with ease, then i got back in it would not move it was hard as a rock, i was able to push the car out of the space, with the engine off i put it into low range one, roll started it and crept it up to the BP which just happened to next door,
now when when u put it into gear with the engine off and turn it off, it just lurches forward, so the gears are engaging,
my brother got under the car and couldnt see any leaks or and we took the mechanism box apart and my brother said it looked find, i checked the clutch fluid level and it seemed fine,
anyone got any ideas?
today i was pulling into a car park, and pulled into a space, i wasnt straight so i put her into reverse, backed up a bit then put it back into 1st, i was letting the clutch pedal out when i head this snapping clunk then the 4by stalled, the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor, then i got out pulled it out and it came out with ease, then i got back in it would not move it was hard as a rock, i was able to push the car out of the space, with the engine off i put it into low range one, roll started it and crept it up to the BP which just happened to next door,
now when when u put it into gear with the engine off and turn it off, it just lurches forward, so the gears are engaging,
my brother got under the car and couldnt see any leaks or and we took the mechanism box apart and my brother said it looked find, i checked the clutch fluid level and it seemed fine,
anyone got any ideas?
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my brother thought it might be a something slave, and gave it a lil tap and nothing happened,
im just so pissed cos only last thursday did the hand brake cable snap and cost me $380 to get replaced,
im just so pissed cos only last thursday did the hand brake cable snap and cost me $380 to get replaced,
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cooter you were bang on clutch fork went, unfortunatly the clutch went with it as well, have to wait til monday to pick the car up cos have to wait for a part to come from land rover
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Are the cast forks readily available - and can they be swapped into 300Tdi and later landies?
I assume the Td5s have the same weakness - it's unbelievable that land rover big wigs sanction cost cutting like this - what happens if the cheapo pressed fork fails in the middle of the Sahara?
Seamus
I assume the Td5s have the same weakness - it's unbelievable that land rover big wigs sanction cost cutting like this - what happens if the cheapo pressed fork fails in the middle of the Sahara?
Seamus
ex-mil 109 FFR, rotten 110 Tdi, XJ 4.0
When I swapped my LT77 to an R380, there were differences between the cast fork from the Lt77 and the pressed steel one for the R380 that made them appear incompatible.1tonsoup wrote:Are the cast forks readily available - and can they be swapped into 300Tdi and later landies?
I assume the Td5s have the same weakness - it's unbelievable that land rover big wigs sanction cost cutting like this - what happens if the cheapo pressed fork fails in the middle of the Sahara?
Seamus
Just some more spares that need to be carried. Bean counters dont think like that.
Some of the crazy decissions they have made recently (like Landrover dealerships and models in Aus), make the crappy clutch fork change (and the crappy diff lock lever on the R380) half sensible!
John
i got it back today and man does it feel weird to drive it, the clutch pedal is so unbelievably lite, when i got the defender it was kinda stiff and had to push hard on it, now its like driving the suzuki again, the clutch goes to the floor at the lightest touch, it just doesnt feel manly to drive it anymore!!!!!!
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