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best way to weld on to diff - advice please
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best way to weld on to diff - advice please
just fabbin up my 4-link rear at the mo, whats the best way to weld on to the diff, what sorta metal is it, reccomendations on the best welding rods to use, any advice would be very much appreciated
My name is Rob.
Daily Tourer: GU - 6.5 Chev Turbo, ARB's, 33's, Barwork, Drawers etc
Play: Hilux dual cab - 5 litre, Twins, Buds front & 2010 rear, 35s
Comp: Ruffs old green Hilux
Daily Tourer: GU - 6.5 Chev Turbo, ARB's, 33's, Barwork, Drawers etc
Play: Hilux dual cab - 5 litre, Twins, Buds front & 2010 rear, 35s
Comp: Ruffs old green Hilux
Bubblegum and superglue will work, however....the bubblegum must be chewed no more then 27 times and the superglue must be mixed with the gum after being stirred anti clockwise for 17.5 turns then 89 turns clockwise....after the silicone has been added to the bubblegum/glue mix. The silicone must be added while holding your left foot above your head and biting your tongue
You might want to drop the oil, especially if it needs doing. Otherwise undo the filler cap to let off any pressure that will build up or it will try and push through the seals if your breather is blocked. Take your time with the welding so it doesnt heat up the oil inside too much. You can even dowse the welds with water after each weld to help cool it.
Yurich Design Services
www.yds.net.au
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i definately wouldnt cool it with water...............i got taught that early on when learning to weld, and spring mounts would be the last thing id want to fatigueing and cracking. how about laminateing a diff, can that be done while its all together??Drop Bear wrote:You might want to drop the oil, especially if it needs doing. Otherwise undo the filler cap to let off any pressure that will build up or it will try and push through the seals if your breather is blocked. Take your time with the welding so it doesnt heat up the oil inside too much. You can even dowse the welds with water after each weld to help cool it.
sorry for the hijack elmo, but im sure its all useful info for you too
Re: best way to weld on to diff - advice please
Welding to the axle tubes or diff, the diff housing is usually cast iron and a pain in the arse to weld, no chance for a beginner.Elmo wrote:just fabbin up my 4-link rear at the mo, whats the best way to weld on to the diff, what sorta metal is it, reccomendations on the best welding rods to use, any advice would be very much appreciated
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Re: best way to weld on to diff - advice please
diff housings will be cast steel not cast iorn... specialy the ones in question which i believe are 80 seriesRainbow Warrior wrote:Welding to the axle tubes or diff, the diff housing is usually cast iron and a pain in the arse to weld, no chance for a beginner.Elmo wrote:just fabbin up my 4-link rear at the mo, whats the best way to weld on to the diff, what sorta metal is it, reccomendations on the best welding rods to use, any advice would be very much appreciated
For sale: extended shackles - custom made, PM for details
$POA
WANTED: hilux crawler transfer gears
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WANTED: hilux crawler transfer gears
Re: best way to weld on to diff - advice please
if he has 6.11s they will most likely be 40 or 60s diffsSlayer wrote:diff housings will be cast steel not cast iorn... specialy the ones in question which i believe are 80 seriesRainbow Warrior wrote:Welding to the axle tubes or diff, the diff housing is usually cast iron and a pain in the arse to weld, no chance for a beginner.Elmo wrote:just fabbin up my 4-link rear at the mo, whats the best way to weld on to the diff, what sorta metal is it, reccomendations on the best welding rods to use, any advice would be very much appreciated
P.E.T.A
People eating tasty animals.
People eating tasty animals.
this thread has some humour in it.
leave the oil in there, it is a good heatsink. just make sure your breather is clear. tack the whole thing first, then finish weld by doing one axle mount, one chassis mount, one axle mount, one chassis mount, etc. stops the housing from getting too much concentrated heat into one area. alternating each burn into the axle from the left to right hand sides of the car can't hurt either. don't cool it with water, that's asking for trouble.
leave the oil in there, it is a good heatsink. just make sure your breather is clear. tack the whole thing first, then finish weld by doing one axle mount, one chassis mount, one axle mount, one chassis mount, etc. stops the housing from getting too much concentrated heat into one area. alternating each burn into the axle from the left to right hand sides of the car can't hurt either. don't cool it with water, that's asking for trouble.
on the same topic what about welding a box section on top of the pumpkin part of the diff same principle? as the diagram can i do it with centre in?
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if you dio this it will suffer fatigue cracks.hiluxv8 wrote:Drop Bear wrote: You can even dowse the welds with water after each weld to help cool it.
DO NOT DO THIS. You will actually bend your diff housing.
it also depends on the welder and setting,mig (GMAW) will produces less heat in a more concentrated area,but a stick(MMAW)will produce more heat.if you know how to minipulate steel with heat you won't bend any thing,i have about 3 shock location's on my diff and all i did was weld a HT bolt onto the diff housing were it joins the two halfs,but welding a spot so small you wont bend an diff housing.you would probly have to lay a decent weld to one half to bend it,if your that worried just weld in the same spot but oppasite.
Last edited by suzy on Sun Aug 21, 2005 6:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Using water to cool the welds wont bend your housing its probaby not a good idea though, what Wendle said is a good idea, dont weld all in one spot to spread the heat over a larger area. Come to think of it using water to cool the welds will probably crack it, i just remeber the teacher at tech getting us to do this to cool down our welds, but these were just scrap metal so i guess it wasnt an issue, my bad...
well i need to weld right on the pumpkin part and im too lazy to take the centre out should i leave oil in or out should i just weld in parts to keep the heat down a bit will it affect the lockerludacris wrote:If you weld with the oil in it will fatigue your rubber seals if it heats up to much.
LudaCris
MUD BEERS & MAYHEM 4x4 & SOCIAL Group
[url=http://www.fourbys.com.au/]Fourby's tyre and mechanical[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=24441/]My build up for ttc[/url]
[url=http://www.fourbys.com.au/]Fourby's tyre and mechanical[/url]
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=24441/]My build up for ttc[/url]
I suspect if you are putting enough heat near the seals to heat 3 litres of oil to a rubber damging temperature then you would have probably melted the seals without oil anyway.ludacris wrote:If you weld with the oil in it will fatigue your rubber seals if it heats up to much.
LudaCris
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
true,just take your time,at work we put lpg heaters under thick steel to stop it cooling to quick,to get a little better penatration pre heat the rods and even stick some of the parts in the oven,pre heating opens the grain in the steel for a stronger weld,pre heat bis to about 150deg so i would probly go about 50deg for wild steel.evan wave a little heat over the diff just enough so you get the mosture out of the steel,evan a quick drive.Rainbow Warrior wrote:I suspect if you are putting enough heat near the seals to heat 3 litres of oil to a rubber damging temperature then you would have probably melted the seals without oil anyway.ludacris wrote:If you weld with the oil in it will fatigue your rubber seals if it heats up to much.
LudaCris
I'm presuming you are a tradesman as well. So you've never straightened a bent universal beam with heat and water then??. Yes a small weld cooled with water wont make any difference but if it is hot enough it will bend, depending on location of course.Drop Bear wrote:Using water to cool the welds wont bend your housing its probaby not a good idea though, what Wendle said is a good idea, dont weld all in one spot to spread the heat over a larger area. Come to think of it using water to cool the welds will probably crack it, i just remeber the teacher at tech getting us to do this to cool down our welds, but these were just scrap metal so i guess it wasnt an issue, my bad...
the heat we are talking about isnt that bad, it will boil the oil if you do it all in one hit in one spot, i would be very very surprised if you tipped water on it it would bend the housing, but ya never know. Weaken the welds? possibly but i dont know for sure. Ive welded on housings full of oil and not had probs so long as you take your time and let it cool, welding on an empty housing would be ideal though IMHO. I retract my water statement, you shouldnt need to use water if you take your time with it.
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