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Front arb locker installed. 8inch genII housing swaps in!!
Moderator: -Scott-
Front arb locker installed. 8inch genII housing swaps in!!
I just got the housing with my installed ARB installed in my truck that was originally equipped with a 7.25 axle, it is a 3.0 auto.
The housing are almost completely identical. Size wise the only major difference was the longer pinion. The axle tubes were all the same size, and I think the pumpkin was even the same, but my calipers aren't that big.
Is it a real easy mod. The crossmember and mounts are all the same. Those can swap right over or you can use the ones from the new axle.
The halfshaft, and cv's are different so you need those from the new axle. Also when you get it all installed you will need to do some custom work on the driveshaft.
The shaft from the 3.5 has the wrong slip yoke, and large u-joints. I think the flanges look to be the same on the diff side. Your old one can just be cut down and re-tubed, because it is now to long.
I was very happy to find that the CAD vac plunger was also the same. I snapped the hose nipple off the plastic end cap in installation. But it is a two piece shaft held together by a pin and a collar. I was very luck because I was able to use the one off my old axle, and install it without taking the larger diff down again. it was enough of a pain in the ass getting it up in the first place.
Now I need to get the drive shaft done, a compressor sourced, and a new knuckle bearing sourced so I can install the cv's. But it is well on its way!!!
The housing are almost completely identical. Size wise the only major difference was the longer pinion. The axle tubes were all the same size, and I think the pumpkin was even the same, but my calipers aren't that big.
Is it a real easy mod. The crossmember and mounts are all the same. Those can swap right over or you can use the ones from the new axle.
The halfshaft, and cv's are different so you need those from the new axle. Also when you get it all installed you will need to do some custom work on the driveshaft.
The shaft from the 3.5 has the wrong slip yoke, and large u-joints. I think the flanges look to be the same on the diff side. Your old one can just be cut down and re-tubed, because it is now to long.
I was very happy to find that the CAD vac plunger was also the same. I snapped the hose nipple off the plastic end cap in installation. But it is a two piece shaft held together by a pin and a collar. I was very luck because I was able to use the one off my old axle, and install it without taking the larger diff down again. it was enough of a pain in the ass getting it up in the first place.
Now I need to get the drive shaft done, a compressor sourced, and a new knuckle bearing sourced so I can install the cv's. But it is well on its way!!!
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Re: Front arb locker installed. 8inch genII housing swaps in
Nice work Cousin Dougie! If you were to do it over again, would you have just gotten the stick, or kept the "magically shifting transmission"?
Could you swap the whole thing in, end to end? Brakes and all?
This genII stuff is very complicated...
Could you swap the whole thing in, end to end? Brakes and all?
This genII stuff is very complicated...
www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi
shorty diesel paj
shorty diesel paj
Re: Front arb locker installed. 8inch genII housing swaps in
Phil,
It is the front end, so the only thing that gets messed with is the axle housing. The brakes and a-arms all stay in place, although removing the steering knuckle would give you more room to get the cv's out and get it dropped.
I like the automatic, I dont have any desire to ever wheel a stick shift truck.
A rear factory air locker is next, but I need to get the truck ready for school first. Maybe over my winter break I can get an axle sourced and get it installed. Then I will be locked front and rear!!
It is the front end, so the only thing that gets messed with is the axle housing. The brakes and a-arms all stay in place, although removing the steering knuckle would give you more room to get the cv's out and get it dropped.
I like the automatic, I dont have any desire to ever wheel a stick shift truck.
A rear factory air locker is next, but I need to get the truck ready for school first. Maybe over my winter break I can get an axle sourced and get it installed. Then I will be locked front and rear!!
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Dougie, I told you that years ago, anywhere a 7.25" HP has been a 8" HP is a direct bolt in except for the prophaft.
A 8" LP will also fit with a few small mods.
The 3.0 8" HP is identical to the 3.5 8" HP so the CV's are interchangeable.
I know a guy that went from a 8" HP to 7.25" HP to a 8" LP without any drama's at all.
I get asked all the time for 7.25" LP 5.29's (for the Gen 1 4 banger) but my advice is to swap in the 8" LP from a Gen 1 V6 that way you can run the 5.29 and the new ARB locker. Joe on Trail Talk actually did this mod.
A 8" LP will also fit with a few small mods.
The 3.0 8" HP is identical to the 3.5 8" HP so the CV's are interchangeable.
I know a guy that went from a 8" HP to 7.25" HP to a 8" LP without any drama's at all.
I get asked all the time for 7.25" LP 5.29's (for the Gen 1 4 banger) but my advice is to swap in the 8" LP from a Gen 1 V6 that way you can run the 5.29 and the new ARB locker. Joe on Trail Talk actually did this mod.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Please forgive if this looks like a highjack. It isn't.
I read this thread (like most on diff ratios) with care, but am still confused).
I am trying to figure out my options. I am busy installing a DiD (with 5spd manual) into my GenI, which used to be a 2.5TD Auto.
Whilst most guys want lower gears, I need higher gears, something like 4.2s. Most of my driving is on-road, long distance.
Can you gurus tell me in simple terms what the options are. It would be nice if I can upgrade to locked diffs in the same process.
I read this thread (like most on diff ratios) with care, but am still confused).
I am trying to figure out my options. I am busy installing a DiD (with 5spd manual) into my GenI, which used to be a 2.5TD Auto.
Whilst most guys want lower gears, I need higher gears, something like 4.2s. Most of my driving is on-road, long distance.
Can you gurus tell me in simple terms what the options are. It would be nice if I can upgrade to locked diffs in the same process.
1989 LWB Exceed
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
Frank is the Guru, and knows this stuff better than anybody I know. But I'll give my 2c.
I don't know of any ratios below the 4.6, which I think they still run in the Gen 3? Any of the Gen2 V6 manual front diffs should bolt in AND take the ARB diff lock. I think any Gen3 front diff will be the same.
Gen 2 3.5/2.8 rear diffs will have the same ratio available, but won't take an ARB diff lock; factory locker is the only option. Other than that, I'm not sure.
Frank?
I don't know of any ratios below the 4.6, which I think they still run in the Gen 3? Any of the Gen2 V6 manual front diffs should bolt in AND take the ARB diff lock. I think any Gen3 front diff will be the same.
Gen 2 3.5/2.8 rear diffs will have the same ratio available, but won't take an ARB diff lock; factory locker is the only option. Other than that, I'm not sure.
Frank?
Yep Scott, pretty much spot on.
Basically in our market there was nothing under a 4.625 ratio.
In the US they had the Mighty Max (like an early Triton) with 4.272 ratio's.
Another option is to go the Starion 3.90 ratio the rear C&P will bolt in but you will have to convert to a Gen 1 3.0 V6 front diff and then the Starion rear 3.90 can be used for that also but this ratio may be too high for you.
I really can't think of anything else unless you do a complete front and rear diff swap from a Gen 2.5 which had 4.272's in the US market.
Your 8" rear will take a ARB locker but the 7.25" front (what you have now) will not.
Basically in our market there was nothing under a 4.625 ratio.
In the US they had the Mighty Max (like an early Triton) with 4.272 ratio's.
Another option is to go the Starion 3.90 ratio the rear C&P will bolt in but you will have to convert to a Gen 1 3.0 V6 front diff and then the Starion rear 3.90 can be used for that also but this ratio may be too high for you.
I really can't think of anything else unless you do a complete front and rear diff swap from a Gen 2.5 which had 4.272's in the US market.
Your 8" rear will take a ARB locker but the 7.25" front (what you have now) will not.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Thanks so far, guys.
I think what you know as a Triton is called a Colt pickup here.
The Starion I don't know. Was that a pickup truck or what?
3.9 might be OK with 31" tyres. The Gen III uses 3.9 on auto, me thinks.
I think what you know as a Triton is called a Colt pickup here.
The Starion I don't know. Was that a pickup truck or what?
3.9 might be OK with 31" tyres. The Gen III uses 3.9 on auto, me thinks.
1989 LWB Exceed
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
Starion. Sports car; in Australia, they came with 2.0l Sirius series throttle body fuel injected 4 cylinder motor (125kW with leaded petrol.)
Some came with LSD which will bolt into Pajero fronts; again, Frank knows all the details.
Cheers,
Scott
Some came with LSD which will bolt into Pajero fronts; again, Frank knows all the details.
Cheers,
Scott
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Hi Guys....newbie here...
Starting to set up my Jap import NH 6v72, 3.0 auto SWB, 4.875 ratios.
Currently have fitted new EFS torsions, and +100kg 40mm lift springs, superwinch manual hubs, factory 3 mode suspension c/w hight adjustment. LSD, 40mm body going in, running 16x8 neg offset 80 series rims (non locked) with 33"s.
Want to get the lockers sorted ..looks like the back should be ok to do with ARB bits.
Understand to get one in the front I need to change to to an 8' front end. The first question I need to resolve is ..Whats the best way to do this?
Cheers
Starting to set up my Jap import NH 6v72, 3.0 auto SWB, 4.875 ratios.
Currently have fitted new EFS torsions, and +100kg 40mm lift springs, superwinch manual hubs, factory 3 mode suspension c/w hight adjustment. LSD, 40mm body going in, running 16x8 neg offset 80 series rims (non locked) with 33"s.
Want to get the lockers sorted ..looks like the back should be ok to do with ARB bits.
Understand to get one in the front I need to change to to an 8' front end. The first question I need to resolve is ..Whats the best way to do this?
Cheers
Wanga- best you either start a new thread rather than diffing up really old threads with what you are asking or read the actual threads you have been posting in - the answers are all there, ie get an 8 inch front diff.
Cheers, Glen
Cheers, Glen
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
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