Ok time for my dodgy write up.
First thing I did was to get the lift blocks made. I needed 14 blocks in total. All 40mm tall and 60mm diameter alloy blocks. The cab required 8 of them with 10mm holes and the tray required the other 6 with 12mm holes.
Then I waited a few months.
Then I sussed out the bolt situation wich required me to buy 8x M10 bolts 30mm longer than standard and 6x M12 bolts 40mm longer than standard. I reused the old nuts and washers.
I needed to lift up the floor covering and remove the back seat to access the bolt heads.
Then came the fun part. As Rainsey also discovered the front tray bolts are welded in. This required a trip to Bunnings to get one of those Dremel rotary grinder tools. Although I bought a knock off Ozito for $40. So about 6hrs later over two days and many hits with a hammer I managed to removed the two bolts.
The next step involves removing the bracket that goes between the tray and cab. Also the two brackets which go between cab and chassis.
I went around and removed all the nuts while leaving the bolts in place. The problem with this step as the ARB winch bar covered the two front body mounts. I had to loosen the bar and remove all but two of the bolts (one each side) and lower it down onto jacks. This gave me enough room to wrangle the bolts out an later replace with the longer ones. Although the longer ones had to go in from underneath with the nuts on top. As did some of the longer tray bolts.
Then I removed all the drivers side cab bolts and jacked up the drivers side of the body with a bottle jack with a peice of wood on top to prevent punching through the floor. This enabled me to slip all the blocks in. I then repeated this on the passenger side. Once all the cab blocks were in I put all the nuts and washers on finger tight.
Then I removed all the bolts from the drivers side of the tray. I was wondering how I was going to jack up the tray................... then it came to me. I put the jack on top of the tyre and jacked the tray from under the wheel arch
Worked like a charm. Then I slipped all the blocks in. I then did the same to the passenger side and put all the nuts and washers on.
Once this was done I gave the cab a quick once over to make sure it was straight and then tightened all the nuts on the cab. Then I looked at the tray for straightness and decided it was too far over on the passengers side. So I beat the crap out of it until it looked even.
Then came the little jobs to make it all work. I went around and made sure all the hoses and wiring was okay. My diff breathers needed repositioning as did the tail light wiring but nothing major. However the clutch flexible hose was tight. So I removed the bolt which attached the bracket on the higher end of the hose to the copper line and moved it forward which then gave some slack in the flexible line.
The next problem was the radiator fan. The fan was touching the shroud so much that you couldn't turn the fan. I removed the shroud but the fan was rubbing on the lower hose. I was thinking of removing the fan and putting a thermo in which I already had but I had a look and decided it would be much easier to just lower the radiator. So I removed the four radiator bolts and lowered the radiator onto it's little rubber bottom strip and the passenger side upper bolt lined up with an existing hole so I whacked a bolt in there. Then I got the radiator sitting correctly and removed the front grille so I could drill another hole for the driver side and put a bolt in there. I still only have the two bolts holding the radiator in at the moment but this weekend I plan to pull the radiator out and drill two holes in the side barackets of the radiator so I can bolt through them and into the original lower holes.
However this created another problem. I went to remove the radiato cap to top up the fluid (lost some when I removed the upper hose to remove the shroud) and I couldn't get the cap off as it hit the body work when you turned it. So I had to loosen the radiator bolts to remove the cap. I then got my new little rotary grinder and cut the offending part of the radiator cap off. Once all was put back together it worked like a charm.
I then reattached the cab to tray bracket which is simple enough as both tray and cab are raised. However the cab to tray created a problem. I ended up usng the original brackets but bolting them on top of the chassis instead of underneath. This puts them on top of the captive nuts so I got new nuts to put on underneath as well. With the brackets bolted on they were hard up against the loopy things which I figured they shouldn't be. So with the bolts in finger tight I once again got out my trusty bottle jack and jacked up underneath each bracket until there was clearance between the rod and the bracket. I had to redo the passenger side one later as it wasn't bent far enough and creaked when going over bumps and around corners. Then tightened the bolts and nuts.
This left the gearsticks to look into. After a quick drive I decided that there was no point in pulling the center console out to trim anything as it still shifted okay. You can feel that 2nd is a little harder to get into as the shifter presses against the rubber seal but it is okay. I then installed the shifter extensions to bring the shifters back nto position. However I have since removed the gear selector one because I prefer the shorter stick as I have long gangley arms being 6ft2in. Thanks go to Toby for the extensions.
Somewhere in there I realigned the bullbar and tightened it all up. The bar won't adjust up far enough and blocked the headlights a little at the top so I removed it for the inspection. Removing the winch bar with a winch in it is not a lot of fun by yourself but I did manage it eventually
I put the stock bumper back on which was easily modded for the lift with a 13mm drill bit and a round file.
I also used Loctite on all the bolts.
For the Qlders out there, when you book your inspection keep in mind that the next available inspection from when I called was 3 weeks away. Not exactly a fast process.
Mine has been been inspected and passed first go with no problems.
I think that about does it. I'll load some photos now and then put a few more up later as I reduce them etc.
Removing the bullbar. I managed to wedge some of my smaller tyres under the bar and then pull the bar off. Took ages but I got there.
You can see the two front mount in this photo. All the fluid under the car is power steering fluid as my winch runs off the power steering.
Finished product
Guess he should have done his homework before buying them.
Notice I had to cut one of the grips off the cap so it would turn enough to remove it.
I have started my little project this weekend..... i'm going to start a thread here and in general tech as well..... some of the guys that can help don't always come into the Isuzu section 
